frontend alignment problem(help please)

[72Z/28]

I am a bit cocerned how the frontend looks like..

The front left wheel is sticking out a little bit more than the wheel on the right side. Also, it seems like there is a caster problem as well even though there is no caster adjustment on my 72 camaro with stock suspension. it seems like the right wheel is pushed a little bit back, and the left wheel is pushed a little bit forward. In other words, the gaps between the wheels and the fenders are not the same..

Any clue what on earth seems to be the problem..

[kp.touring]

First thing is cars are built by people 30+ years ago and are not square. Second you can adjust caster and camber with shims on the upper control arm shafts. Now to answer your question it sound like you have more +camber on left side some alignment shops will put more postive camber on left side for road crown instead of adding more caster to the right side. The idea is to have a car drift to the left a little on flat level ground this away the car is "driving" into the crown of the road. In other words take your car to an alignment shop that works on high performance cars and see what they can do for you.
Kevin

[72Z/28]

Now to answer your question it sound like you have more +camber on left side.
Kevin

Thanks kevin, but the problem is that the entire left wheel is sticking out a little bit, so the outer tire edge rubs against the fender lip when going over potholes... I don't know if that's still + camber or not.

[Norm Peterson]

Ummm, if the LF wheel really is more forward, relative to a better basis than 35 year old sheetmetal, that suggests that the upper control arm on that side is "more forward" than the UCA on the right side. That in turn would indicate that the left side has a less positive caster setting than the right side. If you have a reasonably level area, it's entirely possible to determine your caster settings with some really simple measuring tools (you probably have them already).

But if it drives OK (doesn't want to drift down into the gutter when the road is slightly crowned) I'd look to the sheetmetal work as being slightly "off" for one reason or another.


Norm

[JEFFTATE]

Check the subframe.
Make sure everything is square !

[6'9"Witha69]

Is your frame aligned properly? If using soft body bushings, are they equally compressed? I assume from your post that trhere are currently no shims in the upper arms at all, correct? There is some inconsistency with frames from the era. I know I need one extra shim on the pass side to achieve the same settings as the driver's side.

[72Z/28]

Is your frame aligned properly? If using soft body bushings, are they equally compressed? I assume from your post that trhere are currently no shims in the upper arms at all, correct? There is some inconsistency with frames from the era. I know I need one extra shim on the pass side to achieve the same settings as the driver's side.

All bushings and body mounts are new, I don't think there are any shims on the upper control arms because when I had the bushings replaced, the guy at the shop did not mention anything about shims.

So I might need to add some shims to adjust the caster..

[Marcus SC&C]

You really need to check the actual alignment or you`re just flying blind. If there are no shims in it,there`s your problem. That would indicate that the alignment isn`t set at all. You`ll have quiet a bit of + camber (top of the tire sticking out) and probably near 0 caster. A performance aligment on those cars usually ends up with 1 or 2 shims on the front cross shaft stud and a big (3/4" or so) stack on the rear one. Actual shim counts vary widely vehicle to vehicle,with ride height etc. etc. though so you really should check it with a caster/camber gauge or take it to a good shop to have it done. Mark SC&C

[ProTouring442]

So I might need to add some shims to adjust the caster..

To make this easier for you,

Caster is the lean of the spindle, forward or aft. You'll notice that "casters" on shopping carts have the wheel axle behind the mounting point.

Camber is the lean of the tire, in or out. If your tire leans out at the top, that's too much camber.

Hope this helps!
Bill

[streetk14]

Take it to a good alignment shop and have it dialed in. Just make sure to supply the guys with the specs you want it set to. Unless the front suspension is dead stock (maybe even if it is), the stock alignment settings aren't the best.

Now, about one wheel sticking out further than the other. Your subframe could be a little tweaked or misaligned like some others stated. You could also have a bent spindle or control arm. A good alignment tech will be able to spot the problem if there is one.

My '68 had been in some accidents in it's day, and my front crossmember was pushed over to one side a bit. But I was able to get the alignment specs right where I wanted them. The end result was a bunch of shims on one side and very few on the other, but the car drove great and the tire wear was just fine.

Let us know if we can help,

Andy

[72Z/28]

Take it to a good alignment shop and have it dialed in. Just make sure to supply the guys with the specs you want it set to. Unless the front suspension is dead stock (maybe even if it is), the stock alignment settings aren't the best.

Now, about one wheel sticking out further than the other. Your subframe could be a little tweaked or misaligned like some others stated. You could also have a bent spindle or control arm. A good alignment tech will be able to spot the problem if there is one.

My '68 had been in some accidents in it's day, and my front crossmember was pushed over to one side a bit. But I was able to get the alignment specs right where I wanted them. The end result was a bunch of shims on one side and very few on the other, but the car drove great and the tire wear was just fine.

Let us know if we can help,

Andy

Thanks Andy, my car is lowered a little bit. I guess I need to have someone check the subframe, spindle and the control arm. These parts are stock. It is a pain to find a good alignment shop that can pinpoint what where the problem is.

I had the body mounts replaced, and we made sure that the subframe was aligned properly.. I guess i have to pay the shop another visit..

Thank guys..

[MonzaRacer]

Also those subs were not tthe most acurate ones installed.
From when the strike pushed Camaro production around in 70 they F car had some real doosyes, trust me I used to do alignments for one of my previous employers for almost 7 yrs and saw many that were never wrecked and they had severe problems. 3 of them even had to be put in the frame shop to get straight. The frame guy told me that this was the case and he had done several the same way as these.
Good luck and make sure you get a good shop with current equipment.
Look for a shop that has a the Hunter DSP 600 as it only has to have the heads hung from the wheels and there are no electronics in the heads and it meansd less hanging on the car and less to have problems both from falling and from hanging dificulties.
The targets dont get hurt if they would fall (means less problems working and better chance of the tech actually working on it properly.
Good luck