Shaved Drip Rails..

[Radio Joe]

I know there was some Camaros that had this but can someone post a picture.



I am thinking of doing this to my Corvair but not sure yet. The more I concider it, the longer I look at the car, the bigger the drip rails seem to get and NEED to be removed.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Pros or Cons... Opinions?

[Ralph LoGrasso]

I was considering doing this, but someone told me they were structural, and that it's a harder job than it looks. I may still do it though. I think Dennis Linson did it on his nova.

[StRacerDuke]

It looks good when it's done but it really sucks if you get caught in any rain!
If you do decide to take them off I believe you have to weld up the seams. From what I remember the drip rails are a pinch between the roof panel and the quarter/window body.
I know that the corvair's driprails are a little more obtrusive. You could always just clean them up real nice and paint them body color. That's what I did on the 67 camaro I painted on Sunday. The owner is going for a very smooth look and had me remove all the trim, door handles, rear gas cap, and smooth the firewall out. It looks clean while still functional. Here's a picture of how it looks....

[derekf]

My beater Saturn doesn't have drip rails - because that's the way it was made.

I hate it. If I'm on the freeway with the windows down and I need to use the windshield washer, the water comes off the windshield and into the inside of the car, and I end up wearing all the stuff that was on the window in the first place.

[DLinson]

http://www.et-motorsports.cc/project_cars/nova_62_menace/index.htm
Above is a link to my page. I did remove the drip rails on my Nova along with flush mounting the windows. I cut the drip rails off flush with the body and then fully welded the seams. It wasn't that difficult. Go slow and don't warp the metal of course. The difficulties may be around the front where the roof is welded to the A pillar and also in the rear where it is welded to the B pillar. There is lead in there that you have to melt out and they were actually brazed together not welded so the brazing material messes with the welding.

The pics on the web page are not up to date. They were taking during the flush mounting process. The body work is done now and the entire car is in primer. I can take some pictures for you if you like but I don't have timer right now. I'll try to do that later.

I would suggest to do it because I like the look.

Dennis Linson

[parsonsj]

I love the look of Pigford's '67 with shaved drip rails. My quarters have been replaced, so I'm pretty sure the lead is gone.

I think the last time this came up Dennis suggested cutting a couple of inches at a time and tacking the seam as you go. That way the roof won't wander off.

My hesitation is the how to deal with the curve at the back of the C-pillar. I'm not sure how to make that look right without the trim pieces.

jp

[BRIAN]

First post under new name and message board. Be careful with drip rails as they can be difficult as there are 3 or so pieces of metal sandwiched. Trouble comes where that center piece is rotted due to water collecting behind caulking which is not always readily apparent. Sometimes you just keep popping through with welder. Also I would suggest removing 1/2, welding than repeating. Keeps warpage down and panel from changing shape as it is held together. Good luck1

[parsonsj]

Ryan,

Very cool! Please give me more detail. Can you show me your C pillar from the other side (looking from front of car to back)? How will your window fuzzies work?

thanks!!!
jp

[ryans67deuce]

I'll shoot some more pics tonight and post them up. As for the window fuzzies, Vintage Glass recommended I use universal pieces like the street rodders use. I'm sure it won't be water proof, but I don't "plan" on driving it in acclimate weather..... Vintage glass did a car a couple years ago like this, so they recommended all the parts to me.

Ryan

[PeteRR]

I saw an Orange 1st Gen Camaro in one of the Chevy-specific magazines a couple of years ago that had them shaved. That inspired me to. I just looked through my pics and this is the best view I have. If it's not big enough I can email it to you fullsize.

I don't have a problem with rain as the glass sits firmly against the rubber door surround. Washing it, I have to be careful not to shoot straight at the seam.

[ryans67deuce]

Here you go JP, keep in mind it's still a work in progress....

Ryan

[parsonsj]

Ryan,
That's perfect! Exactly what I was looking for. Looks great, btw.

More questions: where can I learn more about street rodder window fuzzies? Did you weld to fill the gaps, or use body filler?

thanks!
jp

[ryans67deuce]

First, my body shop did the work, so I can't take credit for it... other than paying them..... Yes, the seams were welded, and filler was only used to clean it up. The fuzzies are "universal" types and come in 8' sticks, so you have to cut them to fit your application. I'll look around and see if I can find you a link to some.

Ryan

[Radio Joe]

Thanks for all the replys everyone. I think I am going to go for it! One of the reasons I thought of this is the lower rear of my drip rails has some rust... I thought it would be easier to remove them, replace the rusted metal and the smooth it. I think that is what I will do. Thanks for all the great pictures.

One thought on fuzzies. I dont know what these street rodder fuzzies look like but I was checking out the ones on my 96 camaro. They are fuzzies with a rubber seal that presses against the windows.. kinda hard to explain, just look at 93-2004 camaro. I thought it might work good to keep the water out.

I am hoping to do this soon so I will post some pics as I work.

[parsonsj]

I think I'm gonna do it too. Think of all the money I'll save not having to buy re-pop window trim!

jp

[toddshotrods]

I think you guys are making the right decision. :icon996: Of course that's easy for me to say, my Fiero's drip rails simply pulled off and my Camaro's (79) unscrewed. I would still do it even if I had to cut and weld because it makes a huge difference in the appearance of the car. Have fun...

[DLinson]

John, if your goining to chave the drip rails, you might as well flush mount those windows. Pigot did it on his.

What I did on my Nova won't apply to the hard top guys but will for the post cars. I added a piece of filler material in between the roof and C pillar and the rear side glass trim. I thought it would smooth out the look.

[IMG]ftp://anon:[email protected]/2004-08-09/dlinson/primer-driprail-3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]ftp://anon:[email protected]/2004-08-09/dlinson/primer-driprail-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]ftp://anon:[email protected]/2004-08-09/dlinson/primer-driprail-2.jpg[/IMG]

Good luck with the drip rails and the flush mout windows JP.

Dennis.

[parsonsj]

Dennis, I can't see your images!

I was talking with Randy Revis about this just the other night. I think flush mount is just "too much" trouble. But since you brought it up, how much depth did you leave for the glass? How are you going to finish the outside edges? Where did you find overside glass to fit?

jp

[DLinson]

Vintage Glass will add a 1 inch boarder of ceramic coating to the inside of the glass so the urethane adhesive will stick to the glass. They will also add a small rubber edge molding similar to that on an S-10 window. This will cover up the gap between the window and the body.

I am using the factory size glass. I added material to the entire opening to close it up so there is a 1/4" gap between the body and the glass. I also created a shelf for the glass to sit on. I made it about 1/8 inch deaper than the thickness of the glass to allow for the urethane adhesive.

I'll have to try again on the pics. If I figure it out, I'll post them here again.

DLinson folder in Pro-touring FTP site

This link will get you my folder on the FTP site with the latest body pics. If you copy the links for the images in the posting above and past them to the adress bar it will take you to those photos on in the folder. I don't know why they don't work.

[IMG]ftp://anon:[email protected]/2004-08-09/dlinson/primer-driprail-3.jpg[/IMG]

Later,
Dennis

[PeteRR]

Vintage Glass will add a 1 inch boarder of ceramic coating to the inside of the glass so the urethane adhesive will stick to the glass. They will also add a small rubber edge molding similar to that on an S-10 window. This will cover up the gap between the window and the body.

I am using the factory size glass. I added material to the entire opening to close it up so there is a 1/4" gap between the body and the glass. I also created a shelf for the glass to sit on. I made it about 1/8 inch deaper than the thickness of the glass to allow for the urethane adhesive.

I'll have to try again on the pics. If I figure it out, I'll post them here again.

Later,
Dennis

When I redo the car I'd like to flush mount the front and back glass, so pics of the shelf you made would be useful. Also technique would cool.

thanks,