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    Results 1 to 6 of 6
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Posts
      9

      Brake Bleeding ... no pedal

      I have been trying to bleed my brakes with no success... bled master cylinder, then opened one bleeder at a time with a line into a bottle w/ fluid, pump the brakes slowly. Get plenty of fluid at 4 wheels. When I close all the bleeder valves I have no pedal. There are no leaks anywhere and I have absolutely no clue what is happening. Any ideas?



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      San Diego, CA
      Posts
      356
      Perhaps bleed your brakes the proper way, with a vacum brake bleeder, http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

      or

      Sears item #00921021000 Mfr. model #21021

      $49.99

      I had a Mustang that gave me the same issue, turned out there was a ton of air in the system I wasn't getting out.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      Fontana, CA
      Posts
      4,960
      Country Flag: United States
      Sometimes there is a ton of air in the system. Try starting out with the gravity bleed then start with the RR wheel, LR, RF, LF. Make sure to keep the pedal down steady when you crack the bleeder open.
      Nick R.
      69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
      08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
      Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
      Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2007
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      2,391
      Country Flag: United States
      You need another person or stick to pump bleed. Sounds like air is sucking back in when you are bleeding. To pump bleed you need to crack open one bleeder, slowly depress pedal, CLOSE bleeder, then lift off pedal, open bleeder and keep repeating till no air bubbles. Then move on to next bleeder. Generaly accepted method is farthest first although I've seen other recommendations.
      I once made a stick cut to length to put between the steering wheel and pedal so after depressing the pedal I'd put the stick in and get out and close the bleeder, then take out stick/open bleeder and so on. Time consuming but I work alone a lot so have to be resourcefull. now I use a Motive vacume pump (about 40.00) which saves a lot of time. Before any road track event replace fluid unless it's really new.
      John

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Mason TN
      Posts
      282
      Bleeding can be a Real PITA and I've used every method imaginable and at one time or another one of them would not work for whatever reason so I had to try a different tactic. About 12 years ago I bought a kit called Speedi Bleed from my Snap On dealer and it's been a great tool. If it is within your budget and you think you;ll need to bleed often enough I would recommend that you seriously look into one. After 12 years of use i needed to replace a part just recently and found them on the web here. http://www.speedibleed.com/.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2003
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      5,394
      Country Flag: United States
      Does your system have a brake differential valve under the master. Not a proportioning valve differential safety valve. It might have been pushed to one end closing off half the system.
      ________________
      Steve Chryssos




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