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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,569
      Country Flag: United States

      99 Tahoe Brake suck

      Hi I have a 2 door 4wd Tahoe The brakes sucked from new. I had dealer do front brakes 1 year ago only 3 thousand miles the rotors were junk. I went back they did labor for nothing I paid for two new rotors . Now the truck has about 5 thousand miles on brakes 90% highway and the rotors are junk again. I just checked and caliper was hanging up very, slightly should they have picked this up or just bad luck for me?
      I was wondering if there are any calipers from a suberban or larger SUV that would bolt on to my truck withy same rotors or from the doner vehicle with minamal work? I have to pick up my Car from South Carolina at end of July so I need to get on this.
      Thanks for the help Wayne



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jun 2002
      Location
      Long Island, NY
      Posts
      11,320
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm not sure what will bolt up, but I do feel your pain. The brakes on 95-99 Tahoes (and whatever else they came on Suburban, yukon, etc.) have to be some of the most inadequate braking systems GM ever out-fitted on a vehicle. Every one I've driven is the same--they're all terrible.

      I would maybe look into some Hawk HPS pads and stainless steel brake lines. That should show you some improvement.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      Ferndale, WA
      Posts
      766
      Country Flag: United States
      I another person that suffers. Spewaking of which I need to bleed mine today as my lr cylinder was leaking. Its scary sometimes especially when ur hauling a trailer in in SO CAL.
      72 Chevelle Done!

      67' Hell Camino- Under the knife

      Some day: Porsche GT3/ C6R inspired 69

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2004
      Location
      Colorado
      Posts
      1,260
      Country Flag: United States
      My 99 2500 burb ate brake pads. I don't thing the 3/4 ton brakes would help.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,569
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the bad news. I was thinking of sloted rotors and better pads,I'll add the steel lines. The dealer shafted me on the 30,000 mile service they said they checked air pressure after 300 miles I checked none were up to pressure they changed the oil when I got to Florida it was over full 1 quart. Truck never leaked or used oil now it leaks I think they just checked everthing off on the list. Thanks for the info Wayne

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      124
      I myself have a 98 2 dr 4wd tahoe, and was suprised by the braking performance. My dads always had fullsize vehicles, and I've driven most all of them. For its size, I thought it braked pretty good. Far better than any of the fords my dads had.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678
      Not sure when they changed systems on the Tahoe, but my 97 truck NEVER used the rear brakes as the self adjustors never engaged from lack of pressure, so it would always need rear shoes adjusted.. Once you engaged the ABS it would have good pedal for a day or so then no pedal.

      Finally swapped a SSBC master on it stil kept the rear drums and it made a big difference in pedal. It looks siilar to the MC on my wife's 02 Avalanche. It replaced the 96 Suburban that had the same crappy feel.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2001
      Location
      Accord, NY
      Posts
      2,295
      Country Flag: United States
      I too have a 97 gmc with the crappy brakes. Was told by the dealer they 'worked as designed'. Mushy pedal and forget it when the abs kicked in. Felt like someone banging on the pedal with a hammer. I read about the SSBC master but never heard how well it worked.
      69 Camaro convertible, 410, M22, 8-pt cage therapy program. SOLD.
      68 camaro - SOLD
      67 Bel Air - New street project with perfect floors, frame and trunk!

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      CHICAGO SUBURBS
      Posts
      761
      I installed a set of slotted rotors and Hawks pads on a 2001 Tahoe. The brakes are better than they ever were but, they still suck.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Posts
      1,027
      gotta do at least gm rotors, i had a 98 and it would warp rotors in 5k miles, napas are 35 each, gms are 100 each but they are very well worth it, but i too would look at drilled and slotted with hawk pads to get all you can out of it

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Posts
      120
      Country Flag: United States
      i work at a chevrolet dealer and yes , they do suck !!! the best fix for this is a rear disc conversion and an adjustable valve ... they rear brakes do not stay adjusted and the fronts do most of the work ... unless you have time to adjust your rear brakes once a week this is the best fix i know of !!!

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678
      My rears still need some adjusting but pedal is always good and stops better. I always liked having the car and trailer behind me and someone pulling in front of me and stopping in my stopping distance and hoping there was enough brake to stop,even with teh trailer brakes set pretty good. Not near the problems now with the new MC.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,569
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks guys Wayne

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Southern NJ
      Posts
      542
      Country Flag: United States
      Swapping in Earl's (or similar) stainless brake lines will make a big difference, especially in pedal feel. Best brake upgrade for the $, about $120. Baer eradispeed +1s with hawk pads is a nice upgrade too.
      Matt
      1965 Pontiac GTO – Spotts 421 Tripower | TKO600 | 3.90s | Vintage AC | Baers | Hotchkis/SPC/BMR Suspension | Intro Vistas | BFG KDW Redlines | 06 GTO Seats

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Dallas TX
      Posts
      1,633
      Quote Originally Posted by marty69212
      i work at a chevrolet dealer and yes , they do suck !!! the best fix for this is a rear disc conversion and an adjustable valve ... they rear brakes do not stay adjusted and the fronts do most of the work ... unless you have time to adjust your rear brakes once a week this is the best fix i know of !!!
      I used to have the same problem with my old 96 until GM tech asked me if I evey use the E-brake which I didn't. He told me the brakes are self adjusting only when you use the E-brake. I started using it and it seemed to make a diference. The next time I needed front brakes the rears had wear. The time before it looked like the rears hardly ever touched the drums.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      May 2001
      Location
      Mesa, Az.
      Posts
      1,434
      Country Flag: United States
      If you look in the manual it states to reverse and apply "firm" brake pressure to adjust the brakes. I cut slots in my rear drums to manually adjust them on my 97 tahoe and when I adjust the rear brakes up manually the thing stops amazingly! The problem with these trucks is definetly the rear brakes.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      CT
      Posts
      232
      I had a 4 door 98, loved the truck. The brakes we so inadequate they were dangerous. I would not let my wife drive it, they required SO much effort to stop it was rediculous. It took two hands on the wheel to panic stop with any sort of confidence.

      I ended up selling it but I was told to convert it to hydroboost. Several people told me this cures all of the issues with them.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Posts
      26
      Quote Originally Posted by PhillipM
      If you look in the manual it states to reverse and apply "firm" brake pressure to adjust the brakes. I cut slots in my rear drums to manually adjust them on my 97 tahoe and when I adjust the rear brakes up manually the thing stops amazingly! The problem with these trucks is definetly the rear brakes.
      I have a 97 Tahoe 4WD also and sounds like I need to adjust may rear brakes. Isn't the slot to adjust the star wheel in the back plate?

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,569
      Country Flag: United States

      Finally Brakes

      OK guys Finally put my brakes in, Kryo rotors Hawke pads ss braided lines for the front. The back was a horror. I replaced everything shoes drums adjusters and everything else. When I took it apart the seal was gone on the rear. I had most the work done 8 hours labor. The bill was twice as much as I paid for my first car!
      And worth every penny truck stops very well now . No more hopping from warped rotors and drums. The only thing I notice is the pedal is stil alittle ssoft . I will drive for a while and re bleed , but soooo much better.
      Thanks everyone for all your help WAyne "Merry Christmas"
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      ridgefield ct
      Posts
      876
      i've found that GM truck brakes are always soft. i know a guy who found the cure when he worked at the dealership though. when you bleed the system you have to use a computer to activate the abs unit to build pressure, then crack the line. (after doing a normal bleed procedure). it takes forever but it works.
      work in progress--for the next 10 years.
      1987 monte carlo ss 383ci, 9.7:1, xe274 cam, vortec heads, 200r4, 3.73 posi.

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