Body Men Help!!!!

[novanutcase]

I have a car that was base coat/ Clear coated and the clear is pealing off and the paint underneath is "oxidized" or so some body men have told me. I was thinking of experimenting with the $50.00 paint job but I was wondering if I have to sand down to metal or can I just sand off the old clear and any loose paint and roll on the rustoleum?

John

[Gordz32]

Just sand it down to the the layer beneath the peeling coat with about 120-180grit. Then prime and block it and go to paint. I sounds like this isn't going to be a show car but there isn't always a need to go to bare metal. Sounds like a case of the macco special and somone not properly prepping a car. I'm not sure about the 50.00 paint job as I haven't done it. But just make sure that the paint you'll spray or roll on will have something to bitw on too. Other wise you'll have the same issue

[novanutcase]

What should I prime it with? High build? What grit do you like to block with prior to painting?

John

[Gordz32]

I like the HOK polyester primer. As for blocking, it depends on if your gona do the $50 paint or the regular BC/CC / Single stage. But get ur body work done. For bare metal use PPG DP90. AS for grit, on your first coat. Block with 220 dry, second coat go with 320, and then if you need to prime again or not, work ur way up to 600 grit. then you'll easily see how its gonna look b/c the primer will start to have almost a gloss to it.

[novanutcase]

I'm still in the "gettin' the oxidized clear coat off" stage and have been sanding with 120 dry but, damn, it sure is slow going. Should I go get an orbital sander and hit it with some 80 first and then start going up the sandpaper ladder?

John

[MonzaRacer]

John,
Take the car and give it a good wash, then sand the car till you get past the bad clear coat and make the car smooth and get a good finish.
Then get the proper primer for the paint you use. I like Van Sickle implement paint.
Now the trick to make it look good you will need the hardner made for it too.
You must also use the naptha thinner too, not mineral spirits.
The big trick is to paint it and allow it to sit for a few days as it doesnt harden in minutes like newer paint.
My buddy painted his 73 Camaro drag car the first time without primer and it lasted a year or two and the second time he hardened it and its been painted for about 3 yrs and I saw a pic of it the other day and even after sitting around outside and still shiney.
Trust me its very easy if you can paint. My buddy used a Campbell-Hausefeild paint gun and it worked very good.
See too many people make out painting a car for the basic paint job way too complicated.
If you want to try a test panel and shoot one before laying anything on the car.
I am sure you have a compressor handy and can afford a $50 paint gun, oh and several gallons of naptha to clean the gun and your self with(when doing the car). I would also buy several cans of adhesion promoter or as some brands are called, liquid sandpaper. Then get a couple coats of primer then I would give it a quick scuff then shoot the color. Dont worry if you have a few runs or sags they can be wet sanded and buffed.
the paint actually does take longer to dry so fater the final color coat, close the door and walk away for a day or two.
I am going to use the implement enamel on my Cheep Trick 77 Monza later on in the summer if money comes back around.
See everyone bashes this paint but forgets THIS IS WHAT USED TO BE THE NORM.
This is the older paint and many cars are still wearing it today and with proper cleaning and proper care it will live for years.
Turns out the 71 C10 I am rewiring and installing a new electric fuel pump on was painted with a dark green over 15 yrs ago with harder and it still shines better than some show cars(albeit the rust and patches are coming back out).
Good luck and ask any question you want, I will try to help.
A slightly higher costing paint are ones like Western transport colors and those are newer formulations enamels.
Good luck
Lee

[novanutcase]

Thanks Lee!

I think I'm going to pick up an orbital sander and run some 120 grit dry on it to get all the clear coat off good or bad! I figure if the clear coat oxidized, even if some of it is still adhering, it may have adhesion problems at some point so I'm going to sand the entire clear coat off the hood first to test it and see how it does! I'm probably not going to use implememnt paint but whatever the best rustoleum I can find be it marine or whatever and see how it goes on. In the original thread it says that I should use mineral spirits so I think I will try that first and see how it works out. Wish me luck!

[hotrdblder]

i think you need to stop huffin old clear coat and hang out with neesa more.......

[novanutcase]

Sssshhhhhh!!!

I already got a gentle warning from Scott over at Lateral-g!

He thought it was funny but a few of the board members complained about the content.

I don't want to start a riot over here too!

John

[hotrdblder]

give me abreak, they should go stick their nose's somewhere else worrying about what was said there, wtf......

[novanutcase]

give me abreak, they should go stick their nose's somewhere else worrying about what was said there, wtf......

You know how it is! Someone doesn't like that fact that the word "Porn" is even mentioned so they complain! Whatever!

John

[novanutcase]

See "$50.00 Paint Job" Thread..........

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...t=26185&page=4

John