Wilwood brakes not stopping well

[ertoys]

I have Dynalites on the all 4 corners of my 67 camaro.

I swapped it over from 4 wheel drums to discs. I left the factory (drum) proportioning valve and am not running the wilwood prop. valve.

Questions;
1. Could the factory prop. valva hinder brake performance being it is setup for drums?

2. Should I remove the factory prop. valve and install a wilwood valve?

[Steve1968LS2]

The factory prop valve is factory set for factory brakes. It's next to useless with the new four-wheel Wilwood discs. Get the Wilwood adj prop valve.

Yes, remove the factory prop. The factory one could even prove to be unsafe if it allows too much brake pressure to the back. Locking up the back brakes first is bad.

[MonzaRacer]

Also you need to swap out all your 1/4 in brake line after the new prop valve gets installed.
I had a fella bring in a new set up with a full BAER set up and it work properly ,,sort of.
Then I saw his new 1/4 in stainless (hard) brake lines and told him to call the same company back and get some done in 3/16. TADA super firm pedal nad all problems gone.
OH and he never changed his prop valve either and make sure your system doesnt use preasure check valves or the brakes will drag.
Some older cars had a 10psi preasure check valve to help keep the lines under a little preasure to make brakes come in faster.
Most I found are in prop valves but some just look like a long line union too.
Disc usually only use a 2 psi.
See drum brakes use lower preasures but more volume to move the shoes. disc how ever use more preasure and less volume to brake a car.
Good Luck

[ProdigyCustoms]

By not work well, do you mean hard pedal? Soft pedal? Rears lock before fronts? Do you have manual or disk? What master are you runing? What pedal are you running? What pedal hole are you using?


The residual valve will not affect flow to the brakes, but willl cause drag as noted above

Wilwood say 1/4" or 3/16, but says keep it simple and run all 3/16 if replumbng. But your 1/4" should not be your problem.. Your problem is most likely in you pdeal ratio / master cylinder / booster combination if it is a pedal feel situation

You are welcome to call me to discuss the system. I have a hard time equating screen names to real names and do not know if you bought it through us or not, but it really doesn't matter if you need help, feel free to call.

four zero seven 832 1752

[ertoys]

Thanks to all that replied.

Becuase of the helpful advice that I received from everyone above, I have decided to remove the factory brake bias valve and run the Wilwood 7/8 inch bore master cylinder along with a Wilwood prop. valve.

I will report back when I get this finished and back on the road.

Ed

[ProdigyCustoms]

Good talking to you today. Hopefully I helped clear the air. Be sure to report back after the swap to the 7/8 master. You should be pleasently surprised at the difference. I would like some real world feedback in back to back driving.

[HILROD]

The 67 valve would only be a junction with a warning lite. You should be able to leave it to keep the low pressure lite. Now if it was a disc drum car, that's different.

[ertoys]

Good talking to you today. Hopefully I helped clear the air. Be sure to report back after the swap to the 7/8 master. You should be pleasently surprised at the difference. I would like some real world feedback in back to back driving.

Frank, great talking to you as well, I contacted the member as you suggested and he replied with some great info. I sincerely appreciate it!

I will definately provide you with feedback when I get it going again.

Ed

[69TAPoser]

Please report back how you like it with the 7/8 master. I have the same setup (7/8 wilwood master, and 4 dynalites) but I am not on the road yet.

Phil

[ertoys]

Please report back how you like it with the 7/8 master. I have the same setup (7/8 wilwood master, and 4 dynalites) but I am not on the road yet.

Phil

Will do!

[Skip Fix]

Frank couldn't find a phone number to call about brakes.

[ProdigyCustoms]

four zero seven 832 1752, But do me a favor, call tomorrow. Today I am finishing 3 cars to go to Yeare One. Tomorrow I will be driving down the road board!

[Skip Fix]

Good luck at Year One. I've heard form my road race buddies Road Atlanta can be challenging(ie crash). I'll call tomorrow or next week.

[ertoys]

Good talking to you today. Hopefully I helped clear the air. Be sure to report back after the swap to the 7/8 master. You should be pleasently surprised at the difference. I would like some real world feedback in back to back driving.

Ok, here we go. The 7/8 master has an attached pushrod unlike the factory which has an external pushrod which is connected to the brake pedal clevis. Gratefully, the Wilwood pushrod threads are 3/8x24 which is the same thread as the factory pushrod and clevis. So, I removed the factory pushrod and replaced it with the Wilwood pushrod.

I replaced my clutch/brake pedal set recently, but unfortunately, I put the retaining pin on backwards so I was unable to slide the pin out of the brake pedal assembly. Therefore, I had to remove my drivers seat and remove the pedal assembly which enabled me to remove the clevis retainer pin (pain in the butt.)

Note; I decided against adding the proportioning valve and it turns out there is no need. The rears dont lock up.

I think I need to do an additional bleeding because I believe there is more air in the system.

However, the car stops much better! Night and day from where it was with the 1" bore master. Well worth the $ for the piece of mind.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Ahh, just as planed! Well, almost, LOL!

[ertoys]

Ahh, just as planed! Well, almost, LOL!

Frank, thanks again for your and everyone elses help!