Building a small block for my camaro...need input

[kgoings]

I want to build a small block for my 68 Camaro, either a 383 or something with a 400 block. I would like to add a charger/turbo later. Are there things I should do when building the engine so it is prepared for the charger/turbo when I get to that?

Sorry for the question, kinda a newbie.

[camcojb]

I want to build a small block for my 68 Camaro, either a 383 or something with a 400 block. I would like to add a charger/turbo later. Are there things I should do when building the engine so it is prepared for the charger/turbo when I get to that?

Sorry for the question, kinda a newbie.

build it with good enough parts to support the power goal. Turbos usually like 8 to 8.5:1 compression whereas centrifugals run great at about 9:1. The camshaft is different between the two setups also, so you'll need to decide which way you're going before spec-ing a short block and picking a cam.

Jody

[$Mike70Z-28]

jody can you run 9.1 comp with a prochager with out intercooler thanks mike

[molyorange 77]

Yes with around 10 psi boost maybe 12 but thats on the very edge.

[Texas Hotrod]

I agree w/Jody. It takes strong internals to handle the extra stress. "D" cup pistons are needed as well. It'll run better w/a solid roller cam, but it's more hassle. Comp Cams makes retro-fit hydraulic lifters for the older blocks if you decide on a hydraulic roller.

We used MSD electronics in Alex's car. The boost timing master (BTM) works amazingly well. After final tuning it'll be up to 800HP on pump gas.
Start saving your money now. It's not cheap and it's hard work, but it's sure worth it in the end.
Mock-up
http://themagicm.homelinux.org/phpga...97/category/36

Mid build
http://themagicm.homelinux.org/phpga...p?/category/86

First low boost test run
http://www.bartonekdragracing.com/we...amarofront.mpg

Final stages
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=29770

[DeltaT]

I agree on the solid roller being a little more of a hassle, unless you feel that 1.5 hours to check & adjust valves every 7K-10K miles is a real pain. But the payoff is there!

I built my blown 383 with a solid roller, and though I've checked the valves every 1000 or so miles to get a feel for what they need, they have not needed any adjustment for the last 6K miles. It's a small Comp Cams Xtreme Street Roller, suitable for a blower: 230/[email protected]", net lift .603/.605" with 1.65/1.7 rr on E&I, 112LSA.

I figure if you have a blown motor you should be pulling the valve covers off every 7-10K miles for inspection anyways - what's another hour to do a valve adjustment?

The solid roller's performance, as you mention, kicks ass. It idles at 700rpm, has a killer midrange and wicked top end (I have the shiftpoints set at 6250 now). And it will spin, too, if you need to keep the revs up instead of shifting on a straight.

Jim

My site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html

[Texas Hotrod]

Nice fab work Jim. The ultimate sleeper, cool wheels too.
I agree, some sweet Buicks.

I have a 406 small block (stock block, stock crank/rods, dished pistons, big chambered heads) in my Biscayne. When I built the engine, I studed everything. It has a small Comp Cams hydraulic flat-tappet cam, I later put a 671 blower on top of it. I'm now tuning the DFI bug catcher that I pieced together. It's a very mild set up, intended for the local cruises--wouldn't make for a good drag car. It's amazing how much torque such a mild combo can make. It'll push my big bardge down the highway (and up hills) pretty good.

There's more than one way to skin a cat (or build a forced-induction engine).

[WELTERRACER]

I would avoid a solid cam of any sorts... you dont need a huge roller cam to make huge power with a supercharger..

Ive got your basic $150 camshaft with harland sharp 1.65 roller rockers and i would be willing to bet that at 9psi my motor would make close to 675-700hp on a dyno..

[MonzaRacer]

another very hard thing to understand that the 400 blocks are to unstable. Build a 383 from a 2bolt block with aftermarket splayed caps and it will be around 80-87 percent as strong and stabile as an aftermarket block.
I have had customers build killer small blocks and after several rebuilds they decide to step up to a new block and invariably we will see as little as 48 hp and as much as 87 more hp on the dyno by JUST REPLACING THE BLOCKS!
I had one guy who has such a wild NA 406 that it would wipe the mains in 20 runs regardless. We installed all his parts in a buddies Worls block and the mains looked new at tear down so we buttoned it up and let him run it till the leakdown told us it was weak.
Mains still looked like new with only a few minute scratches. he buys buddies block and buddy builds an even bigger engine,
I have also had several guys even go short fill with hard block on the street and we used Evans NPG/R coolant and a 4 lb cap and never have heat problem.
As for valve train I would use reliable parts (IE names you know) and trust the cam people on cam selection BUT never lie to them, give them every detail of what you are intending to run and try to stick to that plan.
you can always add higher ratio rockers if you need more cam (as if you had it planed for 9 psi and decide to push it to 12 or 15 psi ) till you decide to up the actual cam. Good Luck

[DeltaT]

I have also had several guys even go short fill with hard block on the street and we used Evans NPG/R coolant and a 4 lb cap and never have heat problem.

I went with both of these upgrades as well and have had no problems.

Jim

[DeltaT]

I would avoid a solid cam of any sorts... you dont need a huge roller cam to make huge power with a supercharger..

Ive got your basic $150 camshaft with harland sharp 1.65 roller rockers and i would be willing to bet that at 9psi my motor would make close to 675-700hp on a dyno..

I'm assuming that's on an engine dyno, right? As opposed to a chassis one.

Jim