Vortecs and Beehive springs

[956G-Malibu]

Anyone here running a setup like this or have some insight? Any comments or info would be helpful. I would like to add some beehive springs to my vortec heads before I slap them onto my motor, which set of the beehives would you recommend. Also the cam im going to running is going to be .468 on the intake and .510 on the exhaust, I was wondering if it will be okay to run it with the stock pressed in stud, would they handle that lift? Also if I decide to do screw-in studs, would I still require self-aligning rockers?

[Mkelcy]

Anyone here running a setup like this or have some insight? Any comments or info would be helpful. I would like to add some beehive springs to my vortec heads before I slap them onto my motor, which set of the beehives would you recommend. Also the cam im going to running is going to be .468 on the intake and .510 on the exhaust, I was wondering if it will be okay to run it with the stock pressed in stud, would they handle that lift? Also if I decide to do screw-in studs, would I still require self-aligning rockers?

Why do you want beehive springs? They are most useful with heavy retrofit hydraulic roller valve trains to lighten the valve train and provide more consistent control of the valve train at high RPM. If it's to be able to run pressed in studs (because of the lower spring pressure of the beehive springs), that money would be far better spent going to screw-in studs.

0.468" on the intake and 0.510" on the exhaust is more lift than a stock set of Vortecs can take - you need to trim the valve guides. I'd certainly use screw-in rocker studs; and no, if you use pushrod guides you really shouldn't use self aligning rockers - it's one or the other.

[956G-Malibu]

Why do you want beehive springs? They are most useful with heavy retrofit hydraulic roller valve trains to lighten the valve train and provide more consistent control of the valve train at high RPM. If it's to be able to run pressed in studs (because of the lower spring pressure of the beehive springs), that money would be far better spent going to screw-in studs.

0.468" on the intake and 0.510" on the exhaust is more lift than a stock set of Vortecs can take - you need to trim the valve guides. I'd certainly use screw-in rocker studs; and no, if you use pushrod guides you really shouldn't use self aligning rockers - it's one or the other.

the reason I want to run these is because are the only springs that will fit on vortecs without having to machine the valveguide for regular springs

[hardline_42]

the reason I want to run these is because are the only springs that will fit on vortecs without having to machine the valveguide for regular springs

Not true. Scoggin Dickey carries Z28 valve springs and LT4 retainers and locks that are compatible with your cams lift. These are the same items they uses on their upgraded Vortecs. The springs are 1.25" diameter and the whole set inlcuding the retainers and locks comes in under $50. Not sure what the p/n's are but you can call and ask for the parts used on the upgraded Vortecs.

[Lowend]

you wanna look right here
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56505
everything you ever wanted to know about L31 "Vortec" heads