questions on lowering my 69

[gmjj13]

I am in the process of lowering my 69. I just bought a set of Hotchkis 2" drop coils for the front, and DSE 3" drop rear leafs. I may end up adding a 2" drop spindle if i don't like the way she sits after putting the coils and leafs on.

My question is who makes a good drop shock that I could use to replace my stock ones?

Are there any other things I need to look out for by going this low?

Another question I have is about GW's solid frame bushings that come in a 1/2" drop to lower the body. Is anyone using these? I seen them at NPD the other day, and was thinking they could help with the nose bleed factor, but don't know much about them.

This sight is awesome, I have already found a lot of good info on here.

Thanks....

[baz67]

Read this before considering drop spindles https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=16609 Also, using both drop springs and spindles you will have serious subframe clearance issues. The bushings are an idea. Just keep in mind you may run into motor/transmission clearance problems with them.

[sonic69]

Have you ever checked into a good set of coilover shocks for the front. QA1's you can adjust the height.

[gmjj13]

Have you ever checked into a good set of coilover shocks for the front. QA1's you can adjust the height.

thats kinda the info i'm looking for. what can I use for the rear since it will be lower than stock? who makes the best drop shock for what i'm trying to do? i did a search, and didn't find much on drop shocks.

I also read the thread on the spindles, thats good info to know.

[Marcus SC&C]

Stock length shocks will already allow the suspension to fully compress in bump so they don`t need to be any shorter when lowering the car in this application. Shorter shocks would sacrifice droop travel and give nothing in return. The only way shorter shocks would be a "benefit" is if you remove the bumpstops and lower the car more than the maximum intended by the factory (like many lowriders do). The problem with this is 1) you have almost no jounce travel and 2) once the pivot axis of the lower ball joints becomes higher than the pivot axis where the lower arms bolt to the frame the suspension geometry goes down the drain in a big way. It`s a good way to end up with a car that looks low and cool but handles like a bread truck.
If 2" of spring drop isn`t enough for you consider ATS tall aluminum spindles. They`re 1" drop (rather than the usual 2") which will still keep your header collectors and oil pan off the street. Their enhanced geometry will go a very long way toward the car drive and handle as good as it looks. They also take C5/C6 brakes.
QA1 coilover conversions and "good coilovers" are mutually exclusive terms. IMO it`s a poorly engineered hybrid system. At low ride heights the odd beehive springs have an alarming tendency to coil bind,beating up the shocks,bushings and passengers. We get at least 2 calls every single day from people looking to replace them.
At your ride height our Alston Varishock coilover conversions would also be a poor choice. At least until our new SC&C upper coilover mounts are done. Ooops,did I say that out loud?
The lower the car gets the more important properly valved shocks become. A set of 16 way Varishock shocks would be an excellent combination with your DSE springs. If you`re on a really strict budget at least get Bilsteins and some modern GM progressive rate jounce bumpers (search ZQ8) for the lower arms to help prevent bottoming out. Don`t cheap out on the shocks and avoid "drop shocks" from lowrider companies. They`re usually poorly valved,cheap shocks with colorful names and stickers.
The drop aluminum bushings will help tighten up the car by reducing subframe/body deflection and they work fine to lower the car some but they`ll reduce air cleaner/hood,header/floor,trans/floor clearances so make sure you check them. Mark SC&C