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    Results 1 to 16 of 16
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Eastland, Tx
      Posts
      62

      Summit Brakes kit???

      What do you guys think about the new Brake kit from Summit?
      I am really considering running them on the front.

      I have non-power, drums all the way around. If I install the discs up front and just rebuild the rears will I need a proportioning valve?
      Bubba Cox
      Odessa, Tx
      1968 Camaro

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Eastland, Tx
      Posts
      62
      anyone?


      Bubba Cox
      Odessa, Tx
      1968 Camaro

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2003
      Location
      Arvada, Co
      Posts
      2,119
      Country Flag: United States
      Link? Are we to guess what kit?
      Brian


      I have an unlimited budget. That bad part is I have already used it up.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Eastland, Tx
      Posts
      62
      Bubba Cox
      Odessa, Tx
      1968 Camaro

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Macon, Ga.
      Posts
      8,085
      Country Flag: United States
      That looks like a stock type original style system to me. Be careful on paying too much for such a kit. Price a wilwood kit from a sponsor here before spending the money on nothing more than an original system.
      I am sure though that a proportioning valve will be needed.
      Bill

      Trailers are for BOATS!

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      San Diego, CA
      Posts
      71
      I can't tell from the link but I don't see a master cylinder in that pic on Summit. I had the kit from http://www.mattsclassicbowties.com/ on an old car and it came with everything including the booster,prop valve and master cylinder.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      To be quite honest I wouldnt trust such a thing from summit. Summit has been on a tear getting everything they can from overseas to put the Summit name on. And this is from a guy who is at Summits store once or twice a week.
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Eastland, Tx
      Posts
      62
      I'm really trying to go the cheapest route. Do you guys think I'll actually need a booster? How much better would it make the braking?

      Bubba Cox
      Odessa, Tx
      1968 Camaro


    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2003
      Location
      Anaheim Hills, CA
      Posts
      11,967
      Country Flag: United States
      You would be better off finding a set of used 4th gen f-body or C5 vette brakes and making or buying the adaptors.

      This can be done pretty cheap.
      "A ship in port is safe, but that's not what ships are built for."

      1968 Track Rat Camaro:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGHJ5c1yLIo&t=2s

      1971 Chevelle Wagon with a few mods:
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBVPR3sRgyU

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Eastland, Tx
      Posts
      62
      I wouldn't even know where to start making adapters for those brakes. Where do you buy them?
      Bubba Cox
      Odessa, Tx
      1968 Camaro

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      How about 4 wheel discs for the price of those Summit fronts.
      This includes 13" vette rotors
      You willing to fab???????

      This info is in no way a direct bolt on and I take no responsability for what you do with the info provided.
      $400 will get you big cheap fronts and rear discs.

      My set up started with stock power disc/drum
      You must remember I had cores so no core charges applied to my build.
      I also Did all fab and machine work.

      Front (Napa numbers)
      2004 Corvette rotors PN (L) 86701 $27.99
      (R) 86700 $27.99
      1972 Chevy Truck ½ ton calipers (L) 2422000 $16.99
      (R) 2422001 $16.99

      From McMaster I bought 5/8 – 18 x 1 ½ Bolts $7
      Stock Soft lines work for these calipers. Also most Napas will take your
      stock calipers as cores.

      Total $89.96 + tax

      Rear (Advance auto Numbers)
      1980 Pontiac Trans Am Rotors 5044 $42.99 x2
      !980 Chevrolet Malibu Calipers 184071 $10
      184072 $10
      Hoses 1980 Malibu front 436847 $12 x 2
      Ebay brackets $100 (shipped)

      Other parts
      68 Vette Master 1 1/8 bore 101423 $21
      Residual pressure check Willwood $16
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Eastland, Tx
      Posts
      62
      Wish I had all the tools at my disposal to build something like that. Thats got a little bit of everything in it doesn't it?
      Bubba Cox
      Odessa, Tx
      1968 Camaro

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Mar 2007
      Posts
      1
      LowbuckX,
      How do the corvette rotors attach to the hubs (pinned on by the tire or held in by lugs from behind)? I have a '68 tempest with drums, so i'd need brackets and maybe hubs? How big do your rims need to be to clear the corvette/chevy pickup combo (15", 16" or 17")? I'm interested because I love doing things on the cheap and I've got a set of nearly new chevy pickup calipers hanging around (and the brackets for a 4x4).

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      I used my old rotors. I turned them on a lathe to make hubs out of them. Its been done by a few poeople on tis site I dont claim to be the originator of the rotor to hub trick. I think a few people said they had a mechanic use a brake lathe to turn theirs down. Its not hard at all. But you can use your drum hubs. I think the drum hubs are 9/16 narrower than the rotor/hub meaning the rotor/hub will set your wheel 9/16 farther out that your drum hub.

      The rotor is not pinned to the hub it is sandwiched bettween the hub and wheel.

      Im not sure what will fit the best i can tell you is it looks like a 17 will work but do yourself a favor and get 1 rotor and 1 caliper and mock it up inside your wheel to check clearance.

      You would need brackets-- look for used ones because you will need to modify them.
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Edmonton, AB, Canada
      Posts
      311
      Quote Originally Posted by Way_Fast_Whitey
      I'm really trying to go the cheapest route.
      The words cheap and brakes should never be used in the same sentence. Your life is going to depend on if the brakes work properly or not. If it were a dedicated track car, sure go ahead. However if this is something you're going to have on the street with your wife and kids, maybe??, amongst everyone else with their families, buck up and put a decent set of real brakes in the car. I've driven wayyyy to many customer cars that go like hell but you can't stop em to save your life. When you suggest a brake upgrade they say it's too expensive. How much is your life worth? Just my $.02...

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      My set up is safe and all mounting brackets are beefy. All componets are oem and straight out work and very well.

      im not the only one using it or something simular. http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115940
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592




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