Need advice from the welding experts.

[Tom Vogel]

Those are not really bad GMAW welds. A certain amount of spatter is a given, make sure your nozle is clean andyou could also use a stopoff (an anti spatter spray), on the adjacent areas that you want to get the spatter off. Or you could learn tig... thatll give you a clean weld. By the way, the stop start stuff is not done on mig, if anything, just an imperceptible side to side to make sure of bead wet in. (really... just imperceptible)
Someone is going to disagree with me on this... check the welding forums (Millerwelds or Hobart message board). Its funny how many guys see a nice tig weld and go about trying to make a simple mig weld look like a tig bead, even if it does nothing to add integrity to the weld. Kind of like the big chrome exhaust cans on the back of Honda Civics.

[parsonsj]

Its funny how many guys see a nice tig weld and go about trying to make a simple mig weld look like a tig bead, even if it does nothing to add integrity to the weld. Kind of like the big chrome exhaust cans on the back of Honda Civics.

I'm sure we all have our little quirks, but trying to make a MIG weld look like TIG welding isn't why I stitch sheet metal. Stitch-welding sheet metal lets me get full penetration, and to lay the bead low to minimize cleanup grinding without blowing holes in it.

jp

[Tom Vogel]

I'm sure we all have our little quirks, but trying to make a MIG weld look like TIG welding isn't why I stitch sheet metal. Stitch-welding sheet metal lets me get full penetration, and to lay the bead low to minimize cleanup grinding without blowing holes in it.

jp

Sure, I wasnt talking bodywork...thats fine to control heat. His welds were on structural metal.

[parsonsj]

Agreed. Stitch welding should not be be used for structural welding.

Cool.

jp

[MonzaRacer]

One trick while your practicing crank the heat all the way up and practice on heavy stuff then play with your wire speed to getthe "bacon sizzle" then back off on heat till it starts balling up or not penetrating goo then go back up.
also having a variable speed unit it works better I have one with 4 steps on 2 switches.
It still works and all.
Also I love antispatter gell, weld few seconds, gettip hot and push tip into it and get her coated good.
Then get started welding and practice.
As you get good penetration and sweet welds then you can start playing with lighter stuff.
Also use 75 co 25 argon,keep the flow high in windy areas. Also you can buy weld wire thats for "dirty metal" but it does make some extra spatter some, its not flux core it got a coating on it.
We use it in the shop I work in.
Also if its a 110 welder make sure you have heavy wire to plug(like 10/3) and a good solid 30 or 40 amp breaker, a weak breaker will not always trip it will try but then it wont. Hadthis at my dads and spent cash on a double duty 30 amp breaker and it welded much better. Standar 30 would try to trip but not completely trip. I think they were just cheap.
also buy a auto shade helmet best cash spent and get lots of vicegrips and cheap clamps (if you can get them with brass screws slag wont stick.
Good Luck

[pav8427]

Our Power migs at the shop are touchy when it comes to grounding and rust/dirt. Make sure you don't run a plasma cutter while the welder ground is hooked to your table or part. It can back feed and fry some of the stuff in the welder.

Doug