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    Results 1 to 6 of 6
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2003
      Location
      Boringville
      Posts
      1,987

      How good of a ground do Ford remote starter solenoids need?

      I know that the body of the FOrd remote mount starter solenoid needs to be grounded, but how well? does it need to carry the current of the actual battery power or just enough to act as a simple switch, to turn on and off? My new powermaster starter is cranking slow at first and then catching up, i am trying to find out why. thanks!



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      609
      Those solenoids act as an on/off switch from your ign. "on" lead. There is no need to ground it at all. I would guess maybe your cable is too small in diameter, maybe? I use 2-gauge cables for mine. Remember your main engine ground cable should be just as big as your postive one, too. Is this on your 11:1 motor? Is it a gear reduction type starter or just a direct drive mini starter? Not all mini starters are of the gear reduction type. -Jabin

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2003
      Location
      Tampa, Fl
      Posts
      274
      I thought they grounded through the bracket and mounting bolts. Some older Mustangs (pre '73) had a condenser for the voltage regulator that grounded at one of the starter sloenoid mount bolts. Having owned only older Mustangs the first 10 years of my driving life I never had a problem with a grounding issue with the solenoid. I did have issues with high compression motors, big batteries and cheap starter solenoids. I learned to go ahead and pay for the FOMOCO solenoid to avoid this problem.
      Brian
      '68 Chevy Stepside-Fatman, HTH, 8.8, Baer, Hydratech, LS1/T56. I know it's a truck but you gotta start somewhere and I need the challenge.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2003
      Location
      Boringville
      Posts
      1,987
      They do need to ground, and they ground throught the body, so you have to bolt it to a ground. This is on my 11-1 motor, i am using a powermaster ultratorque starter with 250ilb of torque. I am using 1/0 guage cable from battery to starter and the same for the ground in the trunk. I am using a blue top deep cylce optima battery that has been charged fully. I am also using a 1/0 guage ground from block to frame, and an 8 guage from block to body. I also soldered all the fittings and used the correct anvil crimper on the big stuff. When i crank it, it barely goes, but if i hold it, it will pick up and go faster the longer i hold it?

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      Yody,

      How is the battery gounded in the trunk? To the body? Or to the frame? If it's to the body, you've only got an effective ground wire of 8g for your starting circuit. I'd try grounding the solenoid to the frame if you haven't already.

      Good luck, let us know if you find anything. Or at least me ... 'cuz that's exactly how I plan on doing mine.

      jp
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2003
      Location
      Boringville
      Posts
      1,987
      well i think i figured out whats up. the solenoid is grounded the the thin sheet metal in the trunk. the battery is grounded to the rear frame rail. I believe that i am tryign to crank over the motor with full compression on every cylinder, none of the valves are adjusted so they are all closed. So every cylinder is seeinf full compression, normally at least half of them if not almost all of them have some kind of valve opening letting the compression out. After i figured this out i asked someone about my theroy and they sadi that they were suprised the motor cranked at all!!




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