1978 Custom G-Machine Trans Am. IT'S FINALLY DONE!!

[Bandit]

UPDATE 3/2/07

Hey buddy--looks familiar! Nice job on lining up the shifter location.

[Takid455]

bandit - is that a stock 4spd shift rod there or an aftermarket unit? how do you like its position? ( your hand relation to the shifter knob)

[Takid455]

andy - oh ok, I remember looking at that bell. here are my thoughts on it;
Its Aluminum. After seeing pictures of exploding clutches, flywheels, ect and how I realy enjoy having my right foot(we're kinda close), SFI 1/4" steel bell was the only way I was going. those rotating parts will chew right through Aluminum and your foot. another point would be cost, not sure what wier sell them for, but lakewoods are 350 or so new.

now granted, if you have a 300-400 hp application that you just cruise, I suppose it would work just fine. I feel the wier has a good product for that market. Once power increases to 600ft/lbs and 525+/- hp and intend on racing, I feel safer w/ a sronger material. also it will pass tech.

[Ripper]

Wow, great project!

I have a -74 myself with similar modifications!
What are your plans for suspension? You talked about racing in an earlier post and I guess you mean track days?

My car lacks some comfort, but it's really fast at track or auto crossing. Let me know if you want some secret tips

[F70t/a]

Wow, great project!

I have a -74 myself with similar modifications!
What are your plans for suspension? You talked about racing in an earlier post and I guess you mean track days?

My car lacks some comfort, but it's really fast at track or auto crossing. Let me know if you want some secret tips

Ripper,

is your car almost all metal besides the stuff you made?

[AndyD]

andy - oh ok, I remember looking at that bell. here are my thoughts on it;
Its Aluminum. After seeing pictures of exploding clutches, flywheels, ect and how I realy enjoy having my right foot(we're kinda close), SFI 1/4" steel bell was the only way I was going. those rotating parts will chew right through Aluminum and your foot. another point would be cost, not sure what wier sell them for, but lakewoods are 350 or so new.

now granted, if you have a 300-400 hp application that you just cruise, I suppose it would work just fine. I feel the wier has a good product for that market. Once power increases to 600ft/lbs and 525+/- hp and intend on racing, I feel safer w/ a sronger material. also it will pass tech.

I see. What are you using for a cluth and flywheel set up?

[Takid455]

Ripper - PM snet

Andy - hoping to use the stock flywheel. clutch has yet to be detrmined. I have heard good and bad about centerforce, so I 'm am not sure about them. maybe Ram or Spec. I am not a fan of the dual clutch set up becuase it does not interchange witha stock part in case of unexpected failure. its fly wheel , pressure plate an dcluthes are all unique. This is something I wil lbe investigating soon.

[Takid455]

10/15/12
After 7 years of on & off building this car, I am call it done for now. All systems are working and have not had any notable issues in the last 1800 miles or so. Drove the car to OH totaling 1400 miles for that trip. No issues and it ran great. Observed Hwy mileage was 17-19 MPG. Used the car for some local trills since that trip and I have to say I need to get used to this machine. Much different than your average 2nd gen T/A. Def demands respect. Perhaps I can find a road course where I can test some limits and tune the suspension. Overall, I enjoy the car and like the final product. T56 is awesome. Those in debate should just pucker up and do it. 2800 rpm in 6th = 100mph. Car is stable at 140 too :0 . Handling is compared to a modified modern sports car. Where the average 2nd gen nears limits in turns this thing feels effortless. EFI is the cat’s a$$. Let it sit for a month, turn the key and it fires right up.
Think the only thing I would change would not paint the underside. It is nice, but rarely to people look at it being the low stance of the car and it’s a PITA to keep clean. Would also consider using an aftermarket A/C system rather than utilize the bulky stock system to clean up the engine bay.
As planned, this year and part of next are beauty queen years attending shows. However, the emphasis on shows is dwindling and focus on having fun is picking up. I have observed these typs of builds for most local shows are over the top for the average show gower who judges cars by either chalk mark correctness or big giant blower from engine/ bling. While those that know are ‘wowed’, most don’t understand the engineering and planning to modify a car and integrate those systems so it ‘appears’ stock.
Making a list of things for next season which will include higher rate front springs (700-750#), various hose / tube clamps to secure engine bay plumbing neater, brake duct cooling intakes, & dial-in suspension. Also send tack back to autometer so it doesn’t stick at 3k rpm and decide to work normally at random. Did a search and it seems to be common.
Did a photo shoot this weekend, will attempt some more in the next couple weeks when the fall foliage peaks. Called some local photo people but they expressed little interest thus I I said screw it took some myself. Basic point & shoot Cannon.
Chillin’ on nice back road (one my testing roads). Too bad dude in front was asleep at the wheel.




Loc 1




Loc 2











Pre-requisite wheel shots

[Takid455]

Projects are never done and this one is no exception...well, its still being built according to the overall plans created 10yrs ago. Wow..10 years!! About 7,000 miles on the build to date and loving it. For inquiring minds MPG city/ fun time is 12, Highway 18-19. Hopefully this will improve as a new EFI system will be installed over the winter in place of the old Holley Projection 4i. It’s been good but cant feed the motor which was anticipated. At the time , I didn’t care for the aftermarket systems and had this so on it went.

Currently the build is somewhere in the phase 3 & 4 of the overall plan. This year’s updates included:
16”/12” dual brushless fan system by Delta PAG
Adjustable coilover system with ride height adjustability by PTFB
C6 Z06 brakes w/ DBA slotted rotors
Baffled fuel tank w/ in-tank pump. My original tank w/ 4th gen Fbody unit worked well, but starved for fuel around long turns w/ ¼ tank. This is one of those things that happens as aftermarket steps up.
Embroidered floor mats

Show / outing shots








With up and coming Bid Bad Olds.


Back to the fun
Fan set up. 2800 CFM vs 4100 CFM. Better shroud design and overall flow of air through radiator. Engine doesn’t get warm as it once did.




Big boy brakes.
Had the base vette brakes prior and they are a good improvement over stock. These are way better than stock. Makes driving stock brake cars feel as if something is wrong. Def require 18” rims. Had to clearance the front calipers a touch for the 3pc bolts. Direct bolt on otherwise.



New front suspension setup. This allows one to PROPERLY set the coil over so the shock piston is approx half way compressed in the body at ride height. Ride height is then adjusted via jack screw accessible in engine bay. Shocks are double adjustable. Different are were required as the GW arms interfered with the upper shock mount. Difference is dramatic. Car rides much smoother and feels confidently panted to the road. Old coilover setup was OK but could never get it adjusted.



OE mount


After Plasma, sawzall & grinder


Mocked up


Getting there. Stuff gets dirty after use. As much as I clean this car, I was surprised how much and where dirt found its self during disassembly.









All installed and ready to roll


Rears



Winter project is an EFI system I am making myself. Will be tunable by anyone that can tune any late model GM product. System should work on any engine platform with a few platform specific parts. All parts will be avail over the counter if needing replacement.

[Takid455]

Been about a year since I got my Pontiac 24x EFI , Coil near plug system running & on the road. Aside from some expect tuning bits initially, it has performed flawless. My old TBI setup doesn't hold a candle to this. I made extra sets for my other cars & for others. I use an 0411 GM ECU but others can also be utilized. Its wonderful being able to datalog all the parameters of the old Poncho engine & fine tune. Overall the car/ engine feels more livelier & more responsive even compared to well tuned carb & TBI setups.


Here's a short video of it running on the car.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhTHRymPSlM


One might say, why this over say a Holley system.
1) Holley ticked me off years ago in this area , not the worker's fault, corporate.
2) You can obtain any of the sensors at a locale parts store if needed.
3) Anyone that can tune GM (or ECU of choice) can hook up to this via ODB2 port
4) "Why not LS/LT swap?" - Pure personal preference. Its the best of both worlds. Old school looks & feel with modern tech & reliability.

[Bandit]

bandit - is that a stock 4spd shift rod there or an aftermarket unit? how do you like its position? ( your hand relation to the shifter knob)

Just to clarify, my car has a TKO 600. (Obviously you have to rethink things a little when installing a T56.) The shift rod on my tranny is how it came set up from Keisler, I think Keisler changes the location a bit. I am using the Hurst version of the stock 4-spd shifter, it is bent the same as stock and the handle location is basically where it would be on a stock 4-speed car.