14 bolt in 1965 GTO convertible

[LoRollr]

I recently got a 14 bolt rearend from a 1996 cadillac and since it was free I am going to try to put it under my car. I am going to have to narrow it and probably move or replace the existing suspension brackets on it. Does anyone know if there is a company around the Cincinnati area that could modify it for me ? I don't have a welder or know how to weld. Also if anyone thinks that this will not work, please chime in .

[TheRev]

are you sure it was from a cadillac not a 3/4 or 1 ton truck? if it is from a truck it's one of the strongest rear ends there is

[big gear head]

The '66 has the upper controll arm eyes cast at less than 90 degrees. The '73 and later rear ends have the eyes cast at 90 degrees, and farther apart. You will have to fabricate some upper controll arms and posibly modify the frame mounts to get it to work, besides swapping the lower controll arm mounts and shock brackets. The width is also going to be too wide, and the Cad probably has the truck 5 on 5 bolt pattern for the wheels. I think there are better options for this. The 8.2 BOP rear end that is in the car is pretty strong for a small 10 bolt, and it will handle most street abuse. It is stronger than the Chevy 8.2 and there are plenty of parts available for it. A 12 bolt would be great, but I know how hard it is to find one. If you have the budget for it the Moser 12 bolt is a bolt in and all new.

[Karch]

Just because it's free doesn't make it a good value in your car.

You are better off getting a rearend made for your car, or close to it.

The 8.5" A-body rears are pretty strong, then 12 bolt, and 9"/Dana 60.

You should figure $1200-$2500 for a good rearend, depending on if it's new or used.

Regarding the comments on the 8.2 originally in the car. They are stronger than the chevy version, but if you ever put sticky rubber on the car, and make decent power, they too will break.

Plenty of posts on the PY boards regarding the rearends. Give it a good search.

I broke my posi 8.2 in my 69 Firebird, and never ran slicks. Never had any noise, but the posi was nice and tight....always laid down 2 lines, until I got one nice, long oil line for 6 blocks after I heard a mild thud. Pinion gear broke 4 teeth, and chuck a piece through the bottom of the housing.

[RobM]

14 bolt is verrrry heavy

[MonzaRacer]

NO!
Please do not try to use a rearend that wont fit, its goiing to hard to find parts for and it just wont work to the best end.
If you need a good strong rearend and are going to narrow one just get either a 8.5 or a 12 bolt from a newer 68 to 72 A body. THEN you can have a good rearend and not spend a fortune looking for obscure parts or having special parts made.
Good luck and if you need a good guy to buy parts from give West Coast Differentials a call and talk to Mike Maddox 1-800-309-9242 ext 110.
I picked everything up to rebuild an 8.8 for a fellas 94 F150 4x4 for a little over $800. This was posi center, ring and pinion, install kit, 2 axles new ,2 new clips, and large jar of marking compound, shipped.
Mike is a cool guy and can help you find all kinds of stuff.
Good luck
Lee

[TheRev]

its goiing to hard to find parts for

there's a **** load of parts for 14 bolts, there in every 3/4 and 1 ton gm has made for the last 30 years

[matthimself456]

The only rear drive caddy in 1996 was the fleetwood which is based on (a longer wheelbase version of) the b-body chassis. Wouldn't a rear from this car be the same 10 bolt as the gazillions of caprices/impalas/roadmasters? Never heard of a car 14-bolt....

[HILROD]

Some of the heavy duty Caddys have 8 lug wheels. They probably use the 14 bolt. While early top fuel cars used them, they weight a ton and I don't think you can convert them to 5 lug easy. Maybe a semi-floater, but they aren't supposed to be very strong anyways.