Solid front leaf spring bushings?

[Bandit]

OK I posted this question on an older post, but apparently nobody noticed it, so I'm starting a new one. I did use the search function and found lots of info on the subject, but I didn't really find a straight answer, and I left more confused than when I started.
So...

My car has the Hotchkis TVS installed, I have the Hotchkis front and rear swaybars installed as well. When I did the install, I also included a set of Competition Engineering slide-link traction bars. At the time I thought I needed them to control wheelhop. Now I know that the traction bars were not necessary, but I am wondering, will they hurt cornering performance? The main question I have though is in regard to the solid aluminum front eye bushings that came with these traction bars. I pressed them in the front eye of my springs, with the Hotchkis poly bushings in the rear shackles. Now I am wondering if I made the right choice. I am trying to tune my suspension for max STREET performance. This is not a racecar. I noticed there are those who say the front spring eye should be rubber or a pivot-ball, to avoid bind. But then there is another school of thought that says the front spring mount should be solid, and the rear shackles allowed to flex via a softer bushing. What gives? can my setup be made to work ok?

BTW my car is still 100% street-driven at this point, however I want the best handling possible from it. I have SC & C pro-lite UCA's going on the front soon, not sure if that makes a difference. Outstanding handling on the street is my primary goal, with ride quality coming in second. It may see a few passes down a dragstrip in the future, but I don't want to sacrifice handling ability for straight-line performance by any means.

[David Pozzi]

How much horespower do you have?
I would certainly try the rubber front eye bushing and no links and compare.

On the Global West site, they used to have a warning about running an aluminum front eye bushing and poly or rubber rear bushings. They feel the leaf acts like a huge lever on the front leaf bracket and it's only held in with three clip nuts so there is potential for it to be torn out or loosened. I guess this assumes the driver is corning hard a lot of the time.
David

[Marktat]

Where can I get that rear cover?

[Bandit]

The cover is from drivetrain.com, not sure if they still have them...

[79T/Aman]

the front part of the leaf is the stiff part main fuction is to act as a lower control arm so it does not comply verry well that make it necessary to use rubber or a pivot joint in the front eye.

[Bandit]

the front part of the leaf is the stiff part main fuction is to act as a lower control arm so it does not comply verry well that make it necessary to use rubber or a pivot joint in the front eye.

Son of a...
I knew you guys were going to say this. So the solid bushing is good for drag-racing only? Should I ditch the bushings and traction bars altogether? What about using something like this for the front bushing? (I don't think they are a sponsor here, so I didn't include the name, I hope that's ok) It's just an example of a pivot-ball design.

Or are there better options for my car? What should I do with the rear shackles, leave the Hotckis bushings installed? Also, if I have to take off the springs to press the bushing, I want to lower the rear a bit, the Hotchkis springs ride a bit high for my taste. Would lowering blocks be ok in this case? Can somebody here help me get this stuff?

P.S. (I make about 450 hp)