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    Results 1 to 13 of 13
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379

      Tubular UCA header interference - crap, crap, crap!!

      I pulled my stock UCAs and LCAs today in hopes of installing my DSE tubular a-arms. Well, the right-front UCA has a huge interference (at least 1") with the #4 header tube.

      Don't get me wrong, I love the DSE control arms, but crap why can't anything just work without major surgery? I guess now I get to pull the header, find someone to alter the tube and have it re-coated.

      Sorry, just venting.................





    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Metamora, Illinois
      Posts
      1,619
      I was under the impression you had to modify your sub frame to install the DSE mod, which requires to engine to be pulled to use you install fixture. Its not as simple as remove old install new.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379
      Quote Originally Posted by rocketrod
      I was under the impression you had to modify your sub frame to install the DSE mod, which requires to engine to be pulled to use you install fixture. Its not as simple as remove old install new.
      EDIT: From the DSE web-site:

      Q: I used the **** Guldstrand template to relocate my upper control arms in my first
      generation Camaro. I drilled new holes and cut away the old holes. Will your upper
      control arms work with this setup?
      A: Yes, you can use our tubular upper control arms with the Guldstrand relocated points. Our tubular upper
      control arms will work in the stock mounting location, or with re-located upper control points.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Metamora, Illinois
      Posts
      1,619
      Quote Originally Posted by dhardison
      EDIT: From the DSE web-site:

      Q: I used the **** Guldstrand template to relocate my upper control arms in my first
      generation Camaro. I drilled new holes and cut away the old holes. Will your upper
      control arms work with this setup?
      A: Yes, you can use our tubular upper control arms with the Guldstrand relocated points. Our tubular upper
      control arms will work in the stock mounting location, or with re-located upper control points.
      My bad. What measurements did you did the g-mod?

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379
      Quote Originally Posted by rocketrod
      My bad. What measurements did you did the g-mod?
      No G-mod here, all stock.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Colorado
      Posts
      397
      Country Flag: United States
      Does your tall deck 572 have anything to do with them not fitting?

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379
      Quote Originally Posted by Norwoodx55
      Does your tall deck 572 have anything to do with them not fitting?
      Probably has everything to do with it.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Morrisdale, PA
      Posts
      181
      Hey Dan, would one of those fancy new sub frames give you the clearance you need? You could get it all changed over before good weather!

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      PA.
      Posts
      935
      Country Flag: United States
      I was thinking a set of our greasable arms may fit but we just lengthened the cross shafts so they`d just be smaller in dia. at the ends. The old ones would probably bolt right on, doh. Mark SC&C
      Last edited by Marcus SC&C; 01-15-2007 at 11:59 AM.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678
      I'm thinking a large diamter socket and a heavy hammer! Hopefully teh coating is flexible enough. Looks like a little dimple would do it. The cross shaft shouldn't move much unless the frame has alot of flex so just a little clearance should do it.

      I could be that individual set of header. I had an extra pair of the same Hooker I run on the car we used on the dyno. I could not get the oil filter off as it hit the headers, never and inssue on the same model number. I have yet to find a set of headers that didn;t need a little tweak somewhere.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379
      Quote Originally Posted by NovaPwr
      Hey Dan, would one of those fancy new sub frames give you the clearance you need? You could get it all changed over before good weather!
      Don't tempt me, all I need is an excuse! That would be a great gift for my upcoming 40th.....

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379
      Quote Originally Posted by Skip Fix
      I'm thinking a large diamter socket and a heavy hammer! Hopefully teh coating is flexible enough. Looks like a little dimple would do it. The cross shaft shouldn't move much unless the frame has alot of flex so just a little clearance should do it.

      I could be that individual set of header. I had an extra pair of the same Hooker I run on the car we used on the dyno. I could not get the oil filter off as it hit the headers, never and inssue on the same model number. I have yet to find a set of headers that didn;t need a little tweak somewhere.
      I'd have to 'dimple' the tube in half to get it to fit. I put two red lines on the pic I posted and the a-arms needs to go left at least 1" before the cross-shaft bolt will line up with the hole. I just need to find someone to re-work that tube.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Delaware, OH
      Posts
      1,379
      Quote Originally Posted by Marcus SC&C
      The old ones would probably bolt right on, doh.




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