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    Results 1 to 13 of 13
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      FRANCE
      Posts
      61
      Country Flag: France

      subframe bushing: poly or aluminium?

      hi all,
      i don't know if it's the right place for my question.

      1- i'm about to replace my old rubber bushing by solid ones. i also have poly ones. should i put the poly or should i go with solid, my firebird is a street car but i like taking hard corner. I'm planing to use sub frame connector next.



      2- solid aluminium bushing seems to be higher than stock, must i machine them? to what final size?


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      Hampton Roads, VA
      Posts
      678
      Country Flag: United States
      I would recommend solid bushings for your car--Global West has about the best there are, stock height or lowered available, with subframe connectors to match. I have their bushings in my TA and I don't feel like it sacrificed any ride quality, but definitely stiffened things up.
      1980 Pontiac Trans Am, Chevy Big Block 468, TKO 600 Trans, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, Eaton/Motive 3:73's, 18" Coddington Junkyard Dogs, Nitto NT555 rubber, Autometers http://www.fquick.com/Bandit
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2458763

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      westchester county new york
      Posts
      2,995
      I agree.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2005
      Location
      Fontana, CA
      Posts
      4,960
      Country Flag: United States
      Solid if you are using weld-in subframe connectors only! Otherwise poly for now.
      Nick R.
      69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
      08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
      Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
      Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      FRANCE
      Posts
      61
      Country Flag: France
      i plan to use bolted on connectors. the solid bushing i have are from Competition engineering.

      6'9"Witha69, do you really think it's a bad idea for my combo?

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      Hampton Roads, VA
      Posts
      678
      Country Flag: United States

      Hmm

      Quote Originally Posted by 6'9"Witha69
      Solid if you are using weld-in subframe connectors only! Otherwise poly for now.
      What's the problem with running solid bushings with bolt-in subframe cnnctrs? I currently have bolted-in Competition Engineering cnnctrs and GW subframe bushings, should I be worried? Are they going to fall off or something? I could always weld my bolt-ins and get the same effect, right?
      1980 Pontiac Trans Am, Chevy Big Block 468, TKO 600 Trans, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, Eaton/Motive 3:73's, 18" Coddington Junkyard Dogs, Nitto NT555 rubber, Autometers http://www.fquick.com/Bandit
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2458763

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Mesa, AZ
      Posts
      133
      I believe what he was getting at was if you have welded in subframe connectors you can ONLY run solid bushings, no poly. It would be a good idea with bolt in subframe connectors as well because if you have subframe connectors you are probably trying to get away from flex in the chassis and solid bushings will accomplish this. I noticed no loss in comfort when ditching my stock bushings, only more steering response and less weird noises when cornering.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      2,624
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm not sure why you'd need to stick with poly without welded subframe connectors either.

      I didn't install subframe connectors yet on my convertible (yes it is in the plans), and noticed only better steering response, less lean, and no degradation in ride quality.

      I say go solid regardless.

      formulfr: are you comparing the solid height to the stock ones on the car? The stockers are probably a little more compressible now after years of use. I was pretty sure my CE solids kept it at about stock height without machining, but I have a 1st gen.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Central CA USA
      Posts
      6,114
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by amcmike
      I'm not sure why you'd need to stick with poly without welded subframe connectors either.

      I didn't install subframe connectors yet on my convertible (yes it is in the plans), and noticed only better steering response, less lean, and no degradation in ride quality.

      I say go solid regardless.
      Well put, I agree. I don't see any reason to allow the subframe to move relative to the unibody. There is next to no difference in ride quality between polly and solid mounts. If you are concerned about ride quality, use rubber A arm bushings and softer springs and shocks.

      GM "tuned" the subframe mounts to work with the tires of the day, skinny bias ply tires. Polly mounts are not tuned for any application.
      David
      67 Camaro RS that will be faster than anything Mary owns.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      2,624
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by David Pozzi
      If you are concerned about ride quality, use rubber A arm bushings and softer springs and shocks.

      GM "tuned" the subframe mounts to work with the tires of the day, skinny bias ply tires. Polly mounts are not tuned for any application.
      David
      Or even delrin A-arm bushings with "soft" (read factory) springs and shocks? I think if properly maintained it the low friction should allow the shocks to do their job better (less stiction) improving the ride quality whicle the lack of deflection improves the handling.

      I did the body bushing change first. Then later I rebuilt the suspension with a larger stabilizer bar, better shocks (valved just a little stiffer than stock), stock replacement springs, lowered the control arm mounting points, delrin bushings, and added low profile tires. Handles very well and rides nice too. I would say the larger bar, and lower profile tires would tend to make it the ride worse, so somthing else must be compensating.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      FRANCE
      Posts
      61
      Country Flag: France
      Quote Originally Posted by amcmike
      are you comparing the solid height to the stock ones on the car? The stockers are probably a little more compressible now after years of use. I was pretty sure my CE solids kept it at about stock height without machining, but I have a 1st gen.

      yes, that's what i compare.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      Hampton Roads, VA
      Posts
      678
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by formulafr
      yes, that's what i compare.
      Don't worry about that--your old ones are squashed. Just go with stock height GW solids and you will be happy, it's a cheap and easy upgrade that counts for a lot.
      1980 Pontiac Trans Am, Chevy Big Block 468, TKO 600 Trans, Hotchkis TVS, Bilsteins, Eaton/Motive 3:73's, 18" Coddington Junkyard Dogs, Nitto NT555 rubber, Autometers http://www.fquick.com/Bandit
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2458763

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Posts
      617
      Country Flag: United States
      I am a fan of solid. Used the short alum. bushing and they worked well. R
      Please see my PT Garage for more info on ProBell Camaro. 67 style,99 comfort, options and drive-ability with NASCAR Late Model suspension front and rear.https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/vb...?do=view&g=106
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