The Big Rub

[67BlackBird]

Gents,
has anyone seen a tire rub mark like this? It is only on the driver's side. Could it be that my subframe is in crooked? It seems unlikely that I can adjust that - as my subframe connectors are welded in and welded to the convertable braces. Any idea how to fix? The tires are AR torque thrust IIs 16x7 with 4 in backspacing, tires are 225-55-16s. The other side just rubs the bolts that hold the inner and outer fender together, I plan to fix with button-head bolts.
I know there are folks running these tires or bigger, why am I rubbing where others aren't?
Thanks

[protour_chevelle]

You got off easy. I flipped my front fender lip inside out from my tire backing in to a spot at a car show!

Aside from that I'm no help.

-Matt

[Madspeed]

You have answered your own question.
Get out the tape and start taking measurments.
Do a search on frame measurments and git ta work.
Sorry but if its in crooked your gonna have some cutting to do =(

[Damn True]

Would it be possible for some monkey at an alignment shop to set it so far out that it would result in rubbing?

Not suggesting that to be your problem, just wondering if it would be possible to do.

[6'9"Witha69]

The only time I have seen the exact same thing, was over 6 years ago when I ran my Camaro up a curb at 35 mph. It bent the frame and caused the exact same rubbing seen here. If it is bent, time for a new frame. If it is misaligned, get to cuttin'. The alignment with your stock suspension should not be able to adjust enough tho do that.

A quick look is the middle (by the firewall) mounts. There are holes in either tab which should line up with matching holes in the body. If the frame is too far back it is possible that this would cause the issues you see.

When the connectors were welded in, were the body mounts replaced? How old are they and what is their composition?

It is also possible the LCA is bent.

Where are you located?

[67BlackBird]

Gents, thanks for the news, I think. Matt, that's unfortunate, i hope I don't have that issue.
The frame connectors were welded in, back in--- 1994 or so. the body mounts were replaced with poly at that time. Recently, I've read that they should have been changed to solids, but now removal and replacement is a bit of an undertaking. I was really hoping to avoid it. Thanks for the advise, I will get to measuring and post whatever conclusions I come to. Thanks again,
Todd

ps - currently in warm Augusta Ga!

[Joey_H]

I had that problem with the first car I ever owned back in high school (a 69 Camaro wish I still had it), once I upgraded the tires and wheels to a larger side. I just got a bottle jack and some blocks of wood to push the fender liner in a bit. I just positioned the jack between the lower A arm and the spot where the tire rubbed, using the blocks on the top and bottom of the jack. Pumped it a a bit and moved the fender liner a tad. It didn't take much mind you and had no effect on the fender itself.

[67BlackBird]

Joey,
funny thing is, this IS the car I had in High School. My folks bought it for me in the summer of '86. So, if the LCA is bent I have a pretty good idea of when it happened, a stupid "see how fast..." story. I plan to measure it this weekend. Honestly I am a bit leery of using a bottle jack as you recommend, couldn't it push the LCA around?

[6'9"Witha69]

I am a bit leery of using a bottle jack as you recommend, couldn't it push the LCA around?

The LCA is plenty strong compared to the fender. I would worry a lot less about the LCA and more about how the outer fender responds seeing as how they are bolted together. Push back on the inner fender and the outer fender will come in. You may not notice it, but it would concern me.

[6'9"Witha69]

PS. Welded in connectors should have had solid mounts also

[Joey_H]

Those factory control arms are stout, I wasn't worried about bending them. And it didn't take but a little bit of a push from the bottle jack to allow enough clearance to stop the rub. The fender didn't deflect or move at all. If the jack is causing you concern you can also use a BFH with similar results.

[67BlackBird]

Right then, the distance from driver's side body mount to the front of rear passanger side sub-frame rail - (follow that?) is 75 and 7/8 of an inch in the manual- 75 and 1/16th on my car. The opposite diagnal is right on the factory spec.
To sum up, the sub-frame on the drivers side of my car is installed about an inch further to the rear than the passanger side. That would explain the rub mark. Understanding that this is not good. How bad is that, really?

[Kenova]

Sounds like the driver's side has been pushed back. Has the car ever hit anything "head on" on the driver's side?
It's starting to sound like a good excuse to buy a DSE sub.
Ken

[67BlackBird]

I guess it's likely the car was hit up front. The edge of the hood is a bit curled under, and the horozontal plae behind the bumper is bent a bit. I suspect that these are the things that didn't get fixed quite right. But it had to happen more than 20 years ago- so I have trouble getting really excited about it. Are there any other ramifications to being a little bent? The front end aligns correctly.
And, no the piggy bank wont handle a DSE sub, if I had the dough i'd get a TKO 600!