"Tri" angle four link????

[juveteach]

Ok I've read the threads. My question is has anyone used and run the triangulated 4 link from air ride tech?? No the high dollar 2k kit but their basic $395 kit? I am thinking of it and use a FAYS 2 watts link. Any ideas? Or up grade to their $695 kit with bags and shocks?

I am trying to do it the cheapest way with best results. Was thinking just going with parallel 4 link with heims and coil overs. It will be a street driven 68 with LS1 6sp but want to to handle like an Indy car on a 1st grade lunch money budget.

Ok let the gnawing beging, thanks in advance before the pain sets in and I can't type.

Mike
aka juveteach

[silver69camaro]

It will be a street driven 68 with LS1 6sp but want to to handle like an Indy car on a 1st grade lunch money budget.

Ain't gonna happen. If all you want to spend is $400 or so, stick with stock or upgraded OEM parts. You'll be way ahead.

[astroracer]

I agree with Matt whole-heartedly! Rebuild your stock suspension, lower it a bit, add some poly-graphite bushings and good shocks and drive it. You can do that for 400 bucks and it WILL improve the handling.
Mark

[juveteach]

Alright, what if you had a 1000.00 budget?
The air ride tech triangulated sysytem is $395 for a true tri angle system, just weld up add shocks and go.
I want to be able to adjust ride height. Any ideas??
Thanks,
Mike

[silver69camaro]

At that cost you may be able to create your own design. Our tri 4-bar kit is $750, and I know the geometry is good on that one. However, ride height is not adjustable (maybe with Shockwaves, but that is a can of worms I wont get into).

Don't count on anything bolting-in.

[6'9"Witha69]

Factor in the cost of GOOD coilovers (not just shocks as you stated) to find the real cost. You will be surprised what a good set of leafs can do though. Granted you do not have the ride height adjustment, at least no more than some shim blocks can do and are labor intensive to install relative to bags or even coilovers, but you get very good results still. Look at the results of the RTH2 AutoX from Hell. Leaf spring cars still hit very low and competitive numbers compared to truly good rear "systems". Given the large difference in price and the small difference in time, you make the call.

[juveteach]

Ok, I was on the Cal-trac web site. They have a new leaf set up. It is a leaf that is over lapped with two different springs. Anyone seen it yet? What ya'll think about how it'll work with a straight line and a auto cross car combo?
Thanks

[juveteach]

OK, again I'm going to open the can of worms. What about Fatman's Wonder Bar? I am going to give up on a "inexpensive 3 or 4 link". This is for a auto shop class so I guess we will stick with the old leafs and just use Cal-tracs or something like that for wheel hop. We are putting a LS1 in a 68 and thought that we could find or build a suitable rear suspension that could be as cool and "function able" (is that a word?) as the swap itself. I will be going by and visiting Fatman today and look at their Wonderbar, but it gets slammed on these sites pretty hard. I will be looking into a good leaf set up and good shocks for our rear. I really like the FAYS watts link but I am so ignorant to the aftermarket stuff I am ashamed to type it.

It again is a street car that will see double duty as drag and auto cross car, ride height adjust-ability is a concern but not a must.

Thanks for everyone looking and chime in if you can think of anything I might have missed in this quest for knowledge.

[Marcus SC&C]

Mike,you`re getting good advice here. I`ll put my $.02 in also. On your budget *leave the leaf springs in the car*. A set of plain old multileafs will do just fine. A set of GW or DSE rear springs will do even better. That cars big issues are in the *front* not the rear. Pick your battles and take out the biggest culprits first for best results. At this level adjustable ride height is a style issue not a performance one. Mark SC&C