Brake Ducts

[SicMonte]

I did a search and nly found some threads form over a year ago..... so Im going to ask this as a current topic...

Does anyone out there have cooling ducts to their front brakes..and have pictures?? I am just trying to get some ideas.

[Blown353]

I don't have any pictures handy but I have rigged up a few cars with them.

There are two schools of thought here... some guys like to cool the rotor, others like to cool the caliper. I've always cooled the rotor.

Best thing to do is build a sheetmetal insert that covers the center of the rotor and feed that with ducting to force cool air through the rotor from the center, through the vanes, and out the circumference. I've worked on a couple used road-race chassis nascars and this is what they do, but they are running 2 each 3" ducts to each rotor. They're heavy though which explains the need for extra air and the second duct.

Even if you don't build the rotor insert, simply running a duct and pointing it towards the center of the rotor is much better than nothing at all.

For ducting, 3" fiberglass/neoprene hose with spiral spring reinforcement works well and is fairly inexpensive. For more money, you can run the silicone hose which has a higher temp rating and is a bit more durable.

3" ducting is the norm, you can get nice plastic NACA ducts from Stock Car Products or other suppliers. Here's a link:
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/brkduct.htm

You can put some expanded metal or criss-cross wire mesh over the front to keep debris out.

Finally, depending on weather conditions and what pads you are running you might have to restrict or even close off the ducts in cold weather, as if you keep the brakes too cold and you're running race pads you will chew the crap out of the rotors since the pads never get hot enough to go to adherent mode.

I'm putting together a parts list for front brake ducting for my car right now, trying to get it trackworthy for a track weekend in April.

Depending on what kind of use you have in mind, ducting might not be needed. On many new Porsches there are some clever little air-channeling strips in the front undertray that divert air and point it at the brakes. Not as effective as direct-ducting but certainly a good start.

I assume you've already removed your backing plates?

[MrQuick]

diy http://hometown.aol.com/gumbydmit22/3rdgenp4.html

[SicMonte]

that what i wanted to do...now another question for you all.

since my monte carlo has 4 headlights...if i take out the high beams and use that location for the air ducts...couldnt i just use the low beam spots for some high beams too? What im getting at it this...i have replaced my stock "lamps" for housings that accept H4 style bulbs. This bulb can be a low beam and a high beam...so could i just do that in the low beam spot? Id just have to switch the terminals right?

[TPI Monte SS]

Well, the stock wiring does kick the lowbeam up to a highbeam on our Montes. You could try unplugging your inner-mounted high-beams first at night, and then kicking on the highs to see if you have enough light. If you feel comfy driving light that, go for it!

[Blown353]

that what i wanted to do...now another question for you all.

since my monte carlo has 4 headlights...if i take out the high beams and use that location for the air ducts...couldnt i just use the low beam spots for some high beams too? What im getting at it this...i have replaced my stock "lamps" for housings that accept H4 style bulbs. This bulb can be a low beam and a high beam...so could i just do that in the low beam spot? Id just have to switch the terminals right?

Don't do that. High beams don't have the beam-cutting lenses that low beams do and they will be downright blinding for other drivers.

Maybe look into a Hella or Cibie E-code lamp that has a dual filament and high & low beams integrated into one lamp.

[SicMonte]

other drivers?? as long as i can see....f'em...kidding kidding

[David Pozzi]

I'm making some for Mary's 73 Camaro right now. I used 2.5" hose and mounted two shop vac nozzles behind the grille. I still need to make the backing plate part. 3" hose looked pretty tight to fit in there, the 2.5" is nice.
If you've got enough grille area, why pull out headlights?
David

Sears makes these "scoops, - the hose fits tightly to them. I found two studs for the grille that the lower bar attaches to, the upper aluminum plate steadies the top. There is a center bracket that I needed to clear so I trimmed the inlets in the center.

[SicMonte]

where do you get those scoops at??

[David Pozzi]

Sears or Orchard Supply, they are shop vac attachments.

[slowcamaro]

http://www.vilipend.com/~frrax/view_...umName=album01

http://home.earthlink.net/%7Ejonaa/Brakeducts.html

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/miketa...don/gordon.htm

http://web.ics.purdue.edu/~lgigliot/brakes/pic1.jpg
http://web.ics.purdue.edu/~lgigliot/brakes/pic2.jpg
http://web.ics.purdue.edu/~lgigliot/brakes/pic4.jpg
http://web.ics.purdue.edu/~lgigliot/brakes/pic3.jpg

http://www.skulte.com/gallery/view_a...t-Spindle-Hats

....hope you like pictures.

On my 82 Z28 I plan on moving my turn signals inboard to where the fascia had the vents, and usings the turn signal location as my intake scoops, they has a nice funnel shape.


http://web.ics.purdue.edu/~lgigliot/brakes/pic5.jpg

[David Pozzi]

Thanks for the pics!

[SicMonte]

would it be wise to run the cooling ducts on the street too? would that "over cool" the brakes?

[Blown353]

would it be wise to run the cooling ducts on the street too? would that "over cool" the brakes?

They're not really needed on the street... but if you're using a street pad designed for low temp useage in mind it shouldn't be a problem to leave the ducting on the street.

The only issue you might have depending on how/where you run the ducts, it may rub the tires or other steering components at full steering lock, which you shouldn't be using on the track under most circumstances but use pretty often on the street.

[David Pozzi]

We use the Hawk HP+ pads and they are not real great when totally cold. The first application at an autocross is a bit poor. We plan on blocking the ducts when not on track.

A street pad probably wouldn't suffer from being too cold, but you wouldn't be running them on an open track car anyway.
David

[Jewce]

I put ducts on my SRT-4 every time I track it. 4" X 6' expandable aluminum dryer ducting $7 for each side from home depot. Takes abour 30 min to put in both sides then I throw them away. They work very well all things considered and I just point them at the caliper cause that's the weakest point on those cars. The only time I didn't use them I went into fade after a few laps and actually bent the backing plate on the inside pad due to the single piston sliding caliper.

[David Pozzi]

Ducting is even more important on later models because they usually have better front spoilers that block almost any air flow to the brakes.

On our 73 Camaro, the antiroll bar get's in the way of a 3" duct but a 2.5" is perfect. I have one side done, the other is about 80% done. I tie wrapped the duct to the pitman arm, that way it moves left/right with the arm and doesn't get loose when you turn the wheel in towards the center of the car.

I'll do the rears if I have time, but the open track is the 25th. I'm probably just going to point the ducts at the rotor eyes, not make a plate like the front.
David

[Camaro_Dan]

why not try something like this? and you can buy some hoses and som inline fans to cool the brakes, or just route the hoses to the front of the car.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Brake...QQcmdZViewItem