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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Windham, NH
      Posts
      965
      Country Flag: United States

      Nuts and Bolts Question

      I am getting ready to restore my subframe with POR15 and will be putting on GW upper/lower tubulars with QA1 coil overs. What do you do about prettying-up the nuts and bolts?

      I was thinking about replacing most of them with stainless hardware or getting the "metal blackening kit" from Eastwood.

      What have you done?

      Phil

      Build site: www.73camarobuild.com
      Business: www.classiccarblasting.com

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    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      SC
      Posts
      360
      I've used stainless, with a little anti-seize, or any kind of coated (cadium, black, etc.) and spray a little rattle can clear on them after installing. What ever you use, just be sure the bolts are the correct grade.

      Oh, and I have powder coated bolt heads too.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Auburn, WA
      Posts
      1,360
      oops, double post...
      Matt Jones
      Mechanical Engineer
      Art Morrison Enterprises

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Auburn, WA
      Posts
      1,360
      Absolutely do NOT use stainless unless you can verify the grade of the fastener. Most stainless hardware is extremely soft, much like a grade 0 fastener.

      Notice how all/most critical ARP fasteners are not available in SS.
      Matt Jones
      Mechanical Engineer
      Art Morrison Enterprises

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Springfield, Mo.
      Posts
      443
      I have been using grade 8 stuff on everything on the front end, it may be overkill but I feel a little better about it ... and I think it looks pretty good
      Wayne
      1967 Camaro - Done!
      1968 Camaro - Underway

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Huntington Beach, CA
      Posts
      2,420
      Country Flag: United States
      I've been using grade 8 most places myself. Since I'm doing runs to the hardware store on an as needed basis I spend more in gas $ than the cost difference of grade 8 over say grade 5.
      Please Subscribe to the AutoXandTrack YouTube Channel

      Autocross and track blog about running autocross and track events with pro touring cars

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Windham, NH
      Posts
      965
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Chad-1stGen
      I've been using grade 8 most places myself. Since I'm doing runs to the hardware store on an as needed basis I spend more in gas $ than the cost difference of grade 8 over say grade 5.
      Chad - I was thinking the same thing, but how do you keep the gold grade 8 bolts looking good over time? Do they not rust as quick as the non-coated steel bolts?

      Phil
      Build site: www.73camarobuild.com
      Business: www.classiccarblasting.com

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    8. #8
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Wa State.
      Posts
      235
      And whatever bolts you do use make sure to use the correct torque values from the bolt/nut manufacturer.

      Stock bolt torque values dont work on aftermarket bolts.
      -Ed Nelson

      1967 Firebird.......
      1970 Corvette. -Sold

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Huntington Beach, CA
      Posts
      2,420
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 69TAPoser
      Chad - I was thinking the same thing, but how do you keep the gold grade 8 bolts looking good over time? Do they not rust as quick as the non-coated steel bolts?

      Phil
      My experience has been they don't rust as easy as the grade 5 stuff or other bolts. Most of the places I used them if I have any problems it would be easy to hit the heads with some paint.
      Please Subscribe to the AutoXandTrack YouTube Channel

      Autocross and track blog about running autocross and track events with pro touring cars

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Kettering, OH
      Posts
      537
      The gold finish is most likely yellow chromated zinc plating, far superior to black oxide (the Eastwood product). Black oxide may last less than a year in a humid environment while the plated fasteners could last years. It's the next best thing to SS (assuming you get the correct grade) IMO.
      1967 Firebird Convert, Fuel Injected 462 ci, TKO 600
      http://1967firebird.atwebpages.com

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Apr 2003
      Location
      Central Valley, CA
      Posts
      910
      Country Flag: United States
      I have also had extremely good luck with "Ultra Coated" bolts-- it's an additional coating on top of cadmium plating. Quite durable. I know McMaster-Carr sells them, don't know who else.

      For big-$$$ you could buy NAS (aka aircraft) bolts in A286 CRES with 160-220ksi tensile strength depending on which NAS spec bolt you purchase. 160ksi is equivalent tensile strength to a Grade-8 general purpose fastener. You could even get some super cool 12-point headed stuff and top them off with dry film lubed deformed-thread style NAS locknuts.
      1969 Chevelle
      Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
      In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.




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