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    Results 1 to 7 of 7
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Bay Area
      Posts
      1,085

      Ls1 W/ Cracked Sleeve

      LS1 block only w/ cracked sleeve. Can it be rebuilt? Don't know much about LS1s. What else to look for as far as problems. LS1 block only. Also, what should I look for with an LS1 that was started with no oil?



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Tennessee
      Posts
      21
      I would think as long as the crack doesn't transfer to the block you should be able to have it re-sleeved. Might be a good excuse to go with a larger bore. They are cast in sleeves, but Trust me, they can be re-sleeved. Also, as far as dry start, I would have all the bearings checked.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2000
      Location
      O-town
      Posts
      4,330
      Country Flag: United States
      I have the same, what I hear is, you bore out the sleeve, bond new one in place, then machine top and bottem, then hone,
      Steve68- 1968 Camaro SS LSX T56, 12bolt 3:90's, 18" Fikse Profil 13s, Deep Fathom Green paint, Spearcos, just bunch of old junk because another member said so, LOL



      70 Nova SS street/drag 454, T400, 3:55, ugly!

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Orlando
      Posts
      296
      New blocks are so cheap, that's not worth it to re-sleeve a damaged LSX unless you're going for bigger bore sleeves on all 8.

      Pick up a better core block for a few hundred $$, then sell the one you have on Ebay to someone who wants to build a Darton sleeve 427, or someone who needs an empty case for mockup.
      Chris
      67 Camaro single turbo LSX/T56 -V2.0 underway
      06 AMG CLS55 2.9 Whipple, 5.6 forged Darton MID
      06 AMG E55 w 63 conversion 2.9 Whipple
      99 FRC Corvette pretty in pink

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States

      now why?

      Now why in heck would you throw away a good block that just needs a sleeve.
      As a machinist (well havent done it in few years but as for sleeveing you just open up parts cataloge and order the one the sleeve manufactuer recomends. You dont bor it all the way down but leave a slight ledge to pres it against.
      You have the end of the sleeve turned to near length (like within .060 to .100 ) you chill sleeve in freezer, I stuck a incandesent light in block to warm it, then we simply press it in till it bottoms. with permatex sleeve locker and a press fit you will never move it. After its in you either use the boring bar to top face it have the block squared to finish. As for running with no oli I just look at rod bearings and if its not froze then most likely you have no problems.
      Mosy people have never had cars have oil outs and as I now work in a name brand tire shop we have them every so often or maybe a double gasket on oilfilter or drain plug comes loose.
      If if had lubrication before it lost oil/oil preasure then that engine coul;d have ran for several minutes with no ill effects.
      I had to finish a car for on of the other techs the other day and it was supposed to have an oil change and cooling system flush. note said oil was done so i hooked up the flushing machine and it ran like 10 or more minutes with no oil. i looked in and it had ioil light on, I shut it off thinking it had a leak ,huh no oil. Asked our service manager if ity had oil and he said he was told it was done, showed him dipstick.Well it got its oil the engine never made any noise, even without oil, picked up preasure and finished flush. Store manager told customer it had happened customer ask if it hurt car and he said we didnt thinkso but if he want new engine it was doable. Customer said well Im driving to California Ill let ya know if its bad.
      Well its back got another oil change, and oil looked ok and engine ran perfect. I even cut filter open.
      I have found that current assembly lubes and oils both will keep most engines lubed till surface over heats. Wehad customer who uses our Kendal full synthetic oil and drove from Indy to Bloomington with light on , we found a hole in oil pan! So I put some 2 part epoxy stick in it and added new oil and filter and started it up. Lifters finally shut up and it is still running ,heck customer hasnt even came back for new oil pan!!! blows me away but most people dont know but drain plugs are made to be soft and sacraficial so you dont break/damage the pan.
      I have seen way too many cars ran with no oil/oil preasure and no damage done.
      :3gears:

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Stillwater Oklahoma
      Posts
      183
      Unless you are planning on building a 427 LS1 or something of that nature it would be pointless to sleeve it. The sleeves are $1300 a set and that doesn't include the cost of getting them installed. You would be much better off finding another used block.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Toronto Canada
      Posts
      31
      Quote Originally Posted by CRCRFT78
      LS1 block only w/ cracked sleeve. Can it be rebuilt? Don't know much about LS1s. What else to look for as far as problems. LS1 block only. Also, what should I look for with an LS1 that was started with no oil?
      Once the sleeve is cracked, the block is junk. I have dry sleeved hundreds of big bore blocks since 98. Once you crack the sleeve, the supporting alum cracks and its all over. It'll be a leaker eventually.




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