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    Results 1 to 10 of 10
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Posts
      3

      Welding mild steel to cast iron

      I've made up some control arm brackets to go on my diffs, and I'm wondering the best way to weld them to the cast iron section of the diff centre?



      I have a mig welder, but just regular steel filler wire in it. I understand you need some sort of high nickel filler reel to do this, but the price of a reel is massive AU$600-700 for the reel.

      The option of using a stick welder and nickel sticks has been suggested to me, and I'm seriously considering it, as they are substantially cheaper. How good a weld can I expect to get this way?

      Is there anything else I need to be doing, in the way of pre/post heating?

      Thanks in advance


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Elk Ridge, Utah
      Posts
      602
      Country Flag: United States
      Youve allready answered al your own questions.

      I am about to do the same thing with a dana 60 and an upper link mount.

      If you rely on just the tabs welded to the diff top then your in for a real surprise when you pound it.

      It will break off. You will HAVE to REALLY brace to the tubes and find a way to mount to at least the 3 upper cover bolts,

      I would also find a way to mount it around the pinnion snout.

      I am going to use a 3/8" thick plate drilled and bolted to the 3 bolt holes for the original snubber mount, then I will bring a gusset up to the upper link mount from there.

      Hope some of this makes sense.

      GL Ken F @ Madspeed
      69 Camaro
      W/D sub, Wilwood 13" brakes Bozeforged wheels 18X10 & 18X12,
      Lateral dynamics 3 link ( custom setup ) Dana 60
      lsX Twin Turbo, soon to come
      Viper T56 in place (Yay)
      Bought a running driving car so I can enjoy it before Im dead
      LD 3 Link Installed into ^^^^^ (Yay)

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Posts
      3
      Thanks for the suggestions with the brackets. I'll have to have a look at how to mount them back to the steel and reinforce them.

      Here's what it's going into


    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Elk Ridge, Utah
      Posts
      602
      Country Flag: United States
      BTW I have been told that stick welds are the strongest.
      You want to ask Matt @ Lateral Dynamics hes the welding G O D

      Matt Chime in here allready Id like your thoughts as well

      =)
      69 Camaro
      W/D sub, Wilwood 13" brakes Bozeforged wheels 18X10 & 18X12,
      Lateral dynamics 3 link ( custom setup ) Dana 60
      lsX Twin Turbo, soon to come
      Viper T56 in place (Yay)
      Bought a running driving car so I can enjoy it before Im dead
      LD 3 Link Installed into ^^^^^ (Yay)

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Maine
      Posts
      594
      Ooh! Rock crawler!
      John




    6. #6
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Elk Ridge, Utah
      Posts
      602
      Country Flag: United States
      Pic is dead box for me =(

      WTF
      69 Camaro
      W/D sub, Wilwood 13" brakes Bozeforged wheels 18X10 & 18X12,
      Lateral dynamics 3 link ( custom setup ) Dana 60
      lsX Twin Turbo, soon to come
      Viper T56 in place (Yay)
      Bought a running driving car so I can enjoy it before Im dead
      LD 3 Link Installed into ^^^^^ (Yay)

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      Sorry guys. Matt is no longer a member here. He had his own reasons for leaving ... you can try and contact him at Lateral Dynamics.
      ​John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Houston Texas
      Posts
      368
      If you weld it to the cast center section you will need to use a high nickel content rod (stick or tig) as others have pointed out. you will only want to weld about an inch at a time and ping (stress relieve) the weld as it cools. It will be difficult, time consuming, and far inferior to welding mild steel to mild steel.

      I highly recommend you change your mounting design to utalize the diff. cover mounting bolts and or tubular *bridge* that welds to each axle tube and goes up over the center section. Something like this for the diff. bracket:

      and this for an oversized diff. bridge i built on a sandrail:
      http://www.blazinlow.com/forum/attac...&postid=613804
      68 Camaro - never to be finished
      06 Silverado - Forged 370, L92 Heads, big cam, 4l80e ect. eventual donor for the above
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmB2y7uX38I

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Posts
      3
      That's a nice looking bracket.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Elk Ridge, Utah
      Posts
      602
      Country Flag: United States
      OH Offroad stuff.... look at this Link...


      http://offroadfabrication.com/assets...lcrumfab3.html
      69 Camaro
      W/D sub, Wilwood 13" brakes Bozeforged wheels 18X10 & 18X12,
      Lateral dynamics 3 link ( custom setup ) Dana 60
      lsX Twin Turbo, soon to come
      Viper T56 in place (Yay)
      Bought a running driving car so I can enjoy it before Im dead
      LD 3 Link Installed into ^^^^^ (Yay)




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