auto - manual swap

[gordonquixote]

On a scale of 1-10, with 10 being rocket surgery and 1 being crashing a bicycle, how difficult is swapping from automatic to manual transmission. I'm pretty mechanical. 1970 Camaro - no engine or tranny in car - or anywhere else for that matter.

[3pedals]

depends which manual trans you wanna put in there. It might be as difficult as rubbing your stomach while tapping your head and hopping on 1 foot at the same time.lol

[gordonquixote]

Do I get a jet engine if I chew gum too. No, seriously, lets say a typical camaro 4 speed like a muncie, rock crusher...anything contemporary to the production era.

I am starting out with a decent car - sans engine and tranny and would like to convert to a manual shift.

Any advice here could definitely end up being rewarded with some rediculous burnout pictures. I'm talkin' burning the tire off of the rim! Maybe even to the point of the sparks off of the bare rim starting a brushfire - in the rain.

[Hidro]

About a 3-4

You need clutch & brake Pedals,
Z bar linkage,
pilot bearing in crankshaft,
Trans output yoke changed if you had a Th400,
and most likely a speedo gear change in trans.
If your rearend gears are tall and your not running a big block you may want to change rearend gears too.

Sounds by the way you want to drive it you will need a rev limiter too!

Where are my burnout pics?

[Bandit]

I think I can outdo Hidro, so send me the pics instead!
(Just a little friendly competition, good for the soul! )

OK, so I just got done swapping from a TH-350 to a Tremec TKO 5-speed into my 2nd gen. I would rate the project at a 5 or 6 on your scale. It would probably be easier for most here, but I was clueless--I went into it with almost no knowledge of how a manual works.

Note that if you have some knowledgeable help, good reference material, and a lift (almost a must for this install), you will be far ahead already.

I will say that the main thing that simplified the process for me was getting Keisler engineering on board. It cost me maybe a bit more to buy from them than piecing everything together myself, but it was WELL worth it to have everything I needed (well, almost everything), all in one shipment to my door.

The parts you need include everything on Hidro's list, but you will need a few more:

-Bellhousing
-Pressure plate/flywheel
-Clutch fork
-Clutch release bearing
-Customized crossmember
-New tranny mount
-Backup light wiring harness
-New or custom-length driveshaft (depending on which tranny you're installing)
-Clutch alignment tool
-Dial indicator (if installing TKO trans)
-Shifter handle and knob (duh)

And, important for our cars, (the 2nd gen F-body):
-Trans tunnel hump
-Shifter boot and trim plate
-New center console (no, the old one will not work, unless you want it to look AFU).


Don't let this lengthy parts list intimidate you, these are all basic parts for a manual swap and Keisler or Classic Chevy 5-spd can get them for you all in one shot.

Also:
-Omit the Z-bar linkage if you decide to go with a hydraulic clutch master/slave (but this will cost several hundred bucks more).

-You can avoid screwing around with speedo gears if you go with a TKO and use the built-in electronic sender with an Autometer elect. speedometer. This is highly recommended since it makes re-calibration easy if you swap rear gears or tire sizes later.


So anyway, for a basic breakdown of how I did the project:
Note: This is for the manual linkage setup.

1. Remove old driveshaft, trans and lines (dropping the exhaust out of the way will make this much easier). Since you said you have no engine/tranny in the car currently, it may be easiest for you to bolt the bellhousing/tranny to the engine and install as a unit.

2. Install pilot bearing into rear of crankshaft.

3. Install bellhousing to engine block and check with dial indicator for "runout", correct if needed. This procedure is necessary for modern trannies with tight tolerances, but may not be required for older ones.

4. Remove bellhousing and install flywheel/clutch/pressure plate assembly (torque to proper specs!), using clutch alignment tool.

5. Install mechanical clutch linkage (Z-bar etc). There is a mounting plate that needs to be bolted onto the frame--I found it much easier to do this with the fender removed from the car. There should already be holes for this in the proper locations on the frame. You will probably have to drill and tap for the bolts though. Also, note that on some applications, the pivot ball goes into the engine block, on others it screws into the bellhousing. Once you get everything into place, you should be able to tell which to use.

6. You could install the new pedal assembly at this point. It simply bolts up into place with a long bolt and locknut. It is one of those up-under-the-dash operations which is the worst part. You should be able to tell where the hole for the upper linkage needs to be drilled in the firewall, if there's not one there already, if you look closely: on my car there was a small divot in the metal, surrounded by a small empty spot in the sound deadener.

7. Remove the old shifter assembly entirely. Install the trans tunnel hump. You will have to enlarge the stock shifter hole somewhat to do this; measuring is required. You could weld the tunnel hump into place, I drilled holes and riveted it. Use plenty of silicone gasket maker to seal it up first though.

8. Re-install the bellhousing/clutch fork assembly.

9. Bolt the transmission up to the bellhousing. Be careful not to let the weight of the trans hang on the pilot bearing alone at any time, a good tranny jack is important.

10. Install the new crossmember and driveshaft.

11. Adjust the linkage until you get a good feel with the pedal. Wire up speedo and backup light and/or neutral safety switch.

12. Install the new cosole, shifter etc.

--Some of these steps, obviously, can be switched around.


A few weird problems I ran into:
-Keisler forgot my clutch fork. No prob, a quick phone call and it was on the way. The moral is, make sure you have everything before you start, to avoid downtime.

-There was already a bushing installed in my crank where the pilot bearing needed to go. It was a PITA to get out. Would have been easier to remove if I had the proper puller set, but I didn't, so I ended up cutting it on both sides with a Dremel and then beating the heck out of it with a hammer and chisel until it broke apart and came out.

-The Lakewood bellhousing I used wouldn't fit with my starter. I had grind the starter nose cone down somewhat, then it allowed the bell to sit flush on the engine.

-After I got everything installed, I realized that I won't be able to change my oil filter without removing the drivers' side exhaust.
This is due to the shape of the new bell and the bend of my headers--you probably won't have this problem, but if you do, a remote oil filter setup could solve it.


This is by no means all-inclusive, and you can't sue me if you do what I said and it blows up. But basically if I can do it, anyone can. So do it!!

Piece of cake!!!

Paul

Hit me up anytime you want more info (that goes for everybody out there)
And check out these links:

http://www.keislerauto.com/gm/transm...70-81_auto.asp
http://www.classicchevy5speed.com/67..._Selection.htm

[gordonquixote]

Thank you guys for the help. I am currently pricing this stuff out now. I can't quite afford the full package from the suppliers you have links to. VERY helpful and informative.

It will be a while, but burnout pictures will definitely be forthcoming - if you hear about an unidentified glow in the southern skies with tornado like sounds, just assume it is me and look for pictures the next day.

Gordon (Tallahassee)

Anybody else, feel free to post your two cents as well. Thanks a trillion.

[PRO TC]

i am a auto tech so its all about swaping parts to me so id say about a 2. a 5 if your installing a 6 speed with a hydrolic clutch. eather way you will have more than enough help from members here if you have any questions. just do it
barry

[Skip Fix]

The two toughest thing converting my 79 Camaro to a stick was tapping (or using self taping bolts) mounting the outer Z bar bracket to the frame. Kind of tough to get a straight shot.

Then hole sawing the firewall for the clutch rod from the pedal. the rest was a piece of cake. Same crossmember as the TH350 if using a Muncie or ST 10. Some driveshaft length, might need a TH400 output yoke depending on tranny.

[Bandit]

The two toughest thing converting my 79 Camaro to a stick was tapping (or using self taping bolts) mounting the outer Z bar bracket to the frame. Kind of tough to get a straight shot.

Then hole sawing the firewall for the clutch rod from the pedal. the rest was a piece of cake. Same crossmember as the TH350 if using a Muncie or ST 10. Some driveshaft length, might need a TH400 output yoke depending on tranny.

Why didn't I think of using a holesaw? I drilled a 1/2" hole and reamed it out with my dremel, it took forever!

Yes, the Zbar bracket was one of the biggest pains for me too, it took me a whole afternoon because of having to remove and reinstall the fender, and then trying to drill those holes and get them tapped straight...I think one of them is cross-threaded but as long as it stays put who cares...

[gordonquixote]

I am about two weeks from firing it up guys! Hydro and Bandit, I'll post videos ASAP!

I started this thread in August of last year! Since then I bought a 1971 Camaro rolling chassis, dropped in a roller-rocker 396, a 4-speed T10. I just put the driveshaft and z-bar on last week.

I'm getting way excited!

Thanks for the help.

[fishtail8]

Looks good.... I'm skeptical about the aircleaner tho.... heard bad things about those.. Clean engine bay tho...

[Bandit]

Nice--glad to see you are making progress! Keep the updates coming!