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    Results 1 to 8 of 8
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      ATLANTA, GA
      Posts
      337

      Explorer Rear Caliper won't compress

      car on stands, hands dirty, kid's hands dirty, please help.
      I was replacing the rear brakes on my 1997 Ford Explorer. I replaced the pads on the driver side, no problem. I used a big ol C clamp to compress the piston back in. I went to do the same on the passenger side and it won't budge. The caliper is pretty far out. So far that I can't get the inner pad off until I compress it. So far, the pad had ground away about an 1/8 to 1/4 inch off of the rotor.
      Any ideas? Is there a lock on this thing to keep it from popping out completely? I'll try breaking the bleeder free after the kids go to sleep. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2000
      Location
      O-town
      Posts
      4,330
      Country Flag: United States
      Brake the bleeder free, clamp the line off so you dont back feed the line into the ABS controller, and try to press the piston back in.

      A friend with a Blazer had the same problem, but the pistons were phonalic and out of round, the harder you applied the brakes the more they wouldn't release, time for new ones,
      Steve68- 1968 Camaro SS LSX T56, 12bolt 3:90's, 18" Fikse Profil 13s, Deep Fathom Green paint, Spearcos, just bunch of old junk because another member said so, LOL



      70 Nova SS street/drag 454, T400, 3:55, ugly!

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      San Diego, CA
      Posts
      356
      Time for new rotor and caliper.... and a proper brake bleed

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      ATLANTA, GA
      Posts
      337

      fixed!

      Thanks all. After a closer inspection, the piston looked a little crooked in the caliper. I tapped the top with a hammer and slid right in. New rotor installed, old caliper. Brakes feel good today. I'll bleed the lines this weekend.
      I guess i should expect issues from a car with 180K miles.



    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      San Diego, CA
      Posts
      356
      For the $30-60 you'd pay for a rebuilt caliper from a part store, It seems kind've dumb to risk chewing up another rotor... Just replace the thing, for all you know the problem could repeat itself

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      ATLANTA, GA
      Posts
      337
      Quote Originally Posted by aonghus
      For the $30-60 you'd pay for a rebuilt caliper from a part store, It seems kind've dumb to risk chewing up another rotor... Just replace the thing, for all you know the problem could repeat itself
      True, though I don't plan on driving it much longer. If I can get the rag joint fixed and breaks blead on my vette, I'll press it back into DD status. It's MUCH more fun in traffic!

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,316
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Steve68
      Brake the bleeder free, clamp the line off so you don’t back feed the line into the ABS controller, and try to press the piston back in.
      It amazes me how many people don’t do that.

      The caliper (and probably the rotor) are wiped, so feel free to treat like trash. Calipers in pairs, so the one you did already made for good practice.

      I dread the next time I have to do the rears in my DD (02 Intrigue). One of the caliper bolts was stripped by GM on the assm line. And those calipers suck to start with. Ugh.
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2000
      Location
      O-town
      Posts
      4,330
      Country Flag: United States
      GM's are famous for !@#$ing up the ABS controller when you back flush the system, I did it the other day and the damn car didn't have ABS, and it was a 04 Impala,
      Steve68- 1968 Camaro SS LSX T56, 12bolt 3:90's, 18" Fikse Profil 13s, Deep Fathom Green paint, Spearcos, just bunch of old junk because another member said so, LOL



      70 Nova SS street/drag 454, T400, 3:55, ugly!




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