Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
    Results 1 to 20 of 22
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Orlando
      Posts
      296

      Front suspension w/frame notch pics

      Here's some shots of the stock subframe on my car with a notch in the rear to clear 265/35/18s on a 18x8.5 wheel with 5.5 BS.
      It doesn't take much really, about 5/8 inch at the widest part. I went a little deeper than needed in case I go to 275s later.

      Attached Images Attached Images      
      Chris
      67 Camaro single turbo LSX/T56 -V2.0 underway
      06 AMG CLS55 2.9 Whipple, 5.6 forged Darton MID
      06 AMG E55 w 63 conversion 2.9 Whipple
      99 FRC Corvette pretty in pink


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Posts
      201
      looks great!! keep up the good work
      vince

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      La La Land, CA
      Posts
      2,241
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking good there. Do you have any in progress shots so people can see where you cut, and how it was done?

      Tyler

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      441
      Country Flag: United States
      I'd like to see/hear more about how you accomplished this especially on the driver side since the area where the steering box attaches is already more narrow than the surrouding area, and the mounting points are reinforced with tubing internally.

      Are you running stock type steering or a rack? Also, was it not necessary to notch the front frame horn area as well?

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2000
      Location
      O-town
      Posts
      4,330
      Country Flag: United States
      Chris, why did you have to notch the frame??
      Steve68- 1968 Camaro SS LSX T56, 12bolt 3:90's, 18" Fikse Profil 13s, Deep Fathom Green paint, Spearcos, just bunch of old junk because another member said so, LOL



      70 Nova SS street/drag 454, T400, 3:55, ugly!

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Orlando
      Posts
      296
      Nah... I didn't take any how-to pics. I figure for something this simple-if you have to ask... you probably shouldn't be hacking on your frame.

      The front area didn't touch, just the back. I'm running a steering box still. The place where the notch started was just behing the steering box bolts.

      Steve- The tires hit the frame because they're too wide.
      Chris
      67 Camaro single turbo LSX/T56 -V2.0 underway
      06 AMG CLS55 2.9 Whipple, 5.6 forged Darton MID
      06 AMG E55 w 63 conversion 2.9 Whipple
      99 FRC Corvette pretty in pink

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      1,070
      One more reason that not to buy a new subframe.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Mountain View, CA
      Posts
      9,583
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks like you did a nice job. However I think I'd prefer to just limit my steering travel a bit.
      True T.

      Whats new with Project 1/2-Trak?


      Follow my wisecracks on Sports, Food, Politics and other BS on Twitter.

      My blog

      When they kick out your front door, How you gonna come?
      With your hands on your head, Or on the trigger of your gun?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Orlando
      Posts
      296
      Thanks! I did this a while ago, but a few people were asking about it. It only took about 2 hours start to finish.
      Chris
      67 Camaro single turbo LSX/T56 -V2.0 underway
      06 AMG CLS55 2.9 Whipple, 5.6 forged Darton MID
      06 AMG E55 w 63 conversion 2.9 Whipple
      99 FRC Corvette pretty in pink

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2000
      Location
      O-town
      Posts
      4,330
      Country Flag: United States
      Oh I didn't know you had a problem,
      Steve68- 1968 Camaro SS LSX T56, 12bolt 3:90's, 18" Fikse Profil 13s, Deep Fathom Green paint, Spearcos, just bunch of old junk because another member said so, LOL



      70 Nova SS street/drag 454, T400, 3:55, ugly!

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Asheville, NC
      Posts
      87
      Headers go up & that looks like a oil return for turbo/s in the LS1 oil pan. Do you have any pics of the turbo setup?

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      292
      i was wondering about this myself, and im definently glad to see that its been done and that it looks easy. big thumbs up to you.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Posts
      28
      You shouldn't have any problems with 265's in the frt with 5.5" back set and 8.5 rims. I run 275/40X17 w/9.5" wide, with the same back set, for street and 295/35X17 for autocross and the 295's only slightly rub the frt part of the top tubular A arm. Are you running narrowed arm arms? Is it the 18" rims? Mine is a 68 but i don't think that makes a difference

    14. #14
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dgoetz
      You shouldn't have any problems with 265's in the frt with 5.5" back set and 8.5 rims. I run 275/40X17 w/9.5" wide, with the same back set, for street and 295/35X17 for autocross and the 295's only slightly rub the frt part of the top tubular A arm. Are you running narrowed arm arms? Is it the 18" rims? Mine is a 68 but i don't think that makes a difference
      Really? what back space are you running. Stock frame?
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Posts
      28
      I am running the same back set 5.5', thats what most run. i have 1/8 and 1/4 spacers to adjust each whl if i need to move the whl out but 5.5 works well for me. you need to measure your frt stance width, from the left face of disc where the whl mounts to the right side. I don't remember what the mesurement should be but some out there does or i can look it up. The other problem with the wider tires is out side clearance with the whl wells, I had mine modifed (rolled) to allow more clearance but it sounds like your 265's are well within the whl wells if they were hitting the frame. The pics show how close mine are to the fenders but they clear. I do run neg camber and my frt susp is a neg roll (gains neg camber as it travels down so i gain clearance) but its only a problem with the 295 hoosier slicks.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Simi Valley, CA U.S.A.
      Posts
      209
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dgoetz
      You shouldn't have any problems with 265's in the frt with 5.5" back set and 8.5 rims. I run 275/40X17 w/9.5" wide, with the same back set, for street and 295/35X17 for autocross and the 295's only slightly rub the frt part of the top tubular A arm. Are you running narrowed arm arms? Is it the 18" rims? Mine is a 68 but i don't think that makes a difference
      Which upper tubular arm are you running?

      Thanks, Lance

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Posts
      155
      Dgoetz,

      Any side shot of the car available?

      Makes for a nice patch, but your car looks like its rolling high no!?

      I have heard about short A-arms but can't remember what was the bad part about their action... It affected the curve somehow. It would pull the tire/wheel in, but at what cost!

      Lead.
      LEADFOOT1
      1969 Camaro Pro-Touring project SOLD!!!

      NOW; as of 08-2006. Still a 1969 Camaro, BUT now a Convertible!, A 63 000 miles, 1 owner, 1 repaint in '78 that was stored inside from 1982 'till i got it car, and is now; Full custom tubbed to fit 19x8.5 and 20x13" Forgeline ZX3p wheels, w/345'-25-20's rear, C6-Z-06 brakes.
      AirBAr suspended +++

      1998 Dualie Crew Cab 3500/454 Fully Loaded.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Posts
      28
      Quote Originally Posted by Leadfoot1
      Dgoetz,

      Any side shot of the car available?

      Makes for a nice patch, but your car looks like its rolling high no!?

      I have heard about short A-arms but can't remember what was the bad part about their action... It affected the curve somehow. It would pull the tire/wheel in, but at what cost!

      Lead.
      Rolling High? like the frt is higher than the back or the car is sitting too high? I have lowered the car asmasp, i even mounted the air ride tech 4 link 2' higher on the car than they recommended, above the frame so i had to install a DSE shock cover in the trunk. I don't run a rake (back higher than frt) because i want the car as low as possilbe for handling. i run Qa1 coil over's all around so i can change the ride height any where. The car is cross weighted to with in 1%.
      Short A-arms do change the curve and you have to run less back set so you gain nothing. The only thing i know that the short a-arms are good for if you want the center of your wheel to look deeper like in a reversed rim style, which I did om the back of the car with a nerrowed axle but i did it to save unsprung weight.

    19. #19
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks good dg, is that Buttonwillow?

      I needed to notch my frame running 17 x 9 1/2" and a 6 1/2" back space. I like to get it a little lower with no rubbing at all.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    20. #20
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Posts
      155
      Quote Originally Posted by dgoetz
      Rolling High? like the frt is higher than the back or the car is sitting too high? I have lowered the car asmasp, i even mounted the air ride tech 4 link 2' higher on the car than they recommended, above the frame so i had to install a DSE shock cover in the trunk. I don't run a rake (back higher than frt) because i want the car as low as possilbe for handling. i run Qa1 coil over's all around so i can change the ride height any where. The car is cross weighted to with in 1%.
      Short A-arms do change the curve and you have to run less back set so you gain nothing. The only thing i know that the short a-arms are good for if you want the center of your wheel to look deeper like in a reversed rim style, which I did om the back of the car with a nerrowed axle but i did it to save unsprung weight.

      Yeah, it looked high from the other pic, thats why i asked to see it from the side. It looks a whole lot different in those last pics but the front tires look like they are at the maximum before protruding out from the fender no. (?) So if you wanted to drop it, could you?

      I like the top of the rim to be matching up at the fender lip (tire in the wheelhouse).

      Thanks!

      Lead.

      Also, you run air right? How you like it?
      LEADFOOT1
      1969 Camaro Pro-Touring project SOLD!!!

      NOW; as of 08-2006. Still a 1969 Camaro, BUT now a Convertible!, A 63 000 miles, 1 owner, 1 repaint in '78 that was stored inside from 1982 'till i got it car, and is now; Full custom tubbed to fit 19x8.5 and 20x13" Forgeline ZX3p wheels, w/345'-25-20's rear, C6-Z-06 brakes.
      AirBAr suspended +++

      1998 Dualie Crew Cab 3500/454 Fully Loaded.

    Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast



    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com