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    Results 1 to 4 of 4
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Charlotte, North Carolina
      Posts
      47

      Bleeding Brake Problem (HELP PLEASE)

      I have a 69 Camaro with late model LS1 calipers, new lines, SS brake hoses, new master cylinder , new proportioning valve and new SS power brake booster. I bench bleeded the master cylinder and started the process of bleeding the individual calipers starting with the rear passenger side first. I just finished assembling everything and did have a couple of leaks that I fixed in the front part of the brake system.

      Problem...when the brakes are pumped and held down (wife helping me out), there is no air or brake fluid escaping through the bleeder valve when I open it. I've tried both sides with the same results. I then used a vacuum pump and I was able to get some fluid out but minimal. it seem as if there is no pressure at the calipers.

      Question....I have the proportioning valve adjusted all the way to towards the "increase" direction on the rear brakes...I went the other direction all the way to "decrease".... there no change. Logic tells me it should be adjusted all the way to the "increase" seeting to allow more pressure. It seems as if the sytem is blocked but I can still remove fluid with the vaccum pump. Also, the pedal has no resistance at this point after pumping several times.

      The front brakes have the same symptoms. No pressure of fluid and air escaping when the bleed valve is released after pumping and holding the brake pedal in the down position. I checked the brake rod and everything seems to be in order in terms of linkage and the booster rod seems to be located in the right position to move the master cylinder piston......anyone got any suggestions for trouble shooting? I'm stumped!

      PS..all bleeders are located on top of calipers!

      Anyone got any suggestions.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Marshall , MO
      Posts
      699
      Is the brake rod long enough to operate the master? Crack the lines at the master and press on the pedal see if any fluid comes out.
      Brad Shepard
      69 Malibu
      Marshall, MO

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Santa Barbara, Ca
      Posts
      1,174
      I just ran all new brake lines and installed a booster on my '68, so maybe I can help some.

      Since I had an almost dry system, it did take a while to get the fluid flowing. I installed speed bleeders when I got my Baer brakes a few years back. They make bleeding the brakes MUCH easier. All you need to do is crack the bleeder, get in the car, and pump the pedal for a while while checking the fluid level every few pumps. This makes it a one person job, and there is none of that "open it, close it" crap.

      Also, make sure you bench bled the master properly. If you have some extra lines with fittings, you can bench bleed it on the car without much effort. I used some old prop valve lines I had lying around to do this.

      Also check the master as Brad suggested above & let us know what you find.

      -Andy

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Elk Ridge, Utah
      Posts
      602
      Country Flag: United States
      It really sounds ike you have a leak.
      If you ar using vac to suck from the bleeder and get barly any fluid you have to be sucking air.
      How did you flare the lines? Are you 100% shure they are flaired correctly and not leaking?


      Try this. Its gonna suck but its the best I can come up with

      take a line out of the master and pressurize it with compressed air and have some one take a squirt bottle with soapy water in it and spray all of your connections and lines while your at it to find your leak

      :EDIT: Oooh I just remembered this. Take the bleeder screw all the way out and use your finger as a check valve Have your helper press the pedal and hold while you relese Cover with your fingeer and have helper relese pedal repete untill you get fluid. DO NOT PUMP PEDAL it causes airation of the fluid slow up and down strokes are all you need so you dont airate the fluid
      let us knkow =)
      69 Camaro
      W/D sub, Wilwood 13" brakes Bozeforged wheels 18X10 & 18X12,
      Lateral dynamics 3 link ( custom setup ) Dana 60
      lsX Twin Turbo, soon to come
      Viper T56 in place (Yay)
      Bought a running driving car so I can enjoy it before Im dead
      LD 3 Link Installed into ^^^^^ (Yay)




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