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    Thread: roll cage

    1. #1
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      Jan 2006
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      Snohomish, Washington
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      roll cage

      i was just wondering if some of you know what would be the best method for welding a roll cage together. my dad knows how to weld so it shudnt be a problem but what kind should be done?

      Matt


    2. #2
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      Tig.
      1969 Chevelle
      Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
      In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.

    3. #3
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      Quote Originally Posted by Blown353
      Tig.
      Why? And bring the tech.
      -Matt

      Welders: The only people that think a co-worker catching on fire is funny.

    4. #4
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      Jan 2004
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      I had mine welded in with my mig welder by a professional welder. He said it would have no problems at all because I asked the same question and this is the guy who has been doing structural welding for 20+ years so I'd trust his expertise.

    5. #5
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      My source informs me that Tig is best used on a Cro-Mo cage. Cro-Mo will be marginally lighter. The material is much more expensive though, and the process requires 2-3x the man hours as a Mig welded mild cage. Which will further add to the expense.
      True T.

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    6. #6
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      Dec 2004
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      connecticut
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      tig. because it's sooooooo pretty.

    7. #7
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      Aug 2004
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      St. Louis, MO
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      There's "knowing" how to weld, then there's KNOWING how to weld. I've seen cages that were welded together by people who "know" how to weld with zero penetration. I've also seen cages welded together with a stick welder... apparently with their eyes closed ;)

      Anyway, MIG is completely acceptable for use on a 1018/1020 Mild Steel cage. 1018/1020 can also be TIG welded.

      4130 is TIG only and should be avoided if it's your first cage. 4130 isn't lighter than Mild Steel.. you're just allowed to use thinner wall sizes, which is where the weight savings come from. With steel prices as crazy as they are right now, 4130 isn't all that much more expensive, but the install time is 3-4 times as long (as mentioned above).

      TIG will get you a prettier weld with almost 100% guaranteed penetration, better fitment of the tube to tube joints.

      Also, just like Paint and bodywork... the quality of the weld starts at the prep of the joint. No more than 1/16" gaps, shiny metal at least 1" from the cope and wiped down with acetone before you even make a tack weld.

      Just my $.02
      Scott Rhea
      It's not what you build,
      it's how you build it.
      www.izzyscustomcages.com

    8. #8
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      Quote Originally Posted by Matt@Lateral Dynamics
      Why? And bring the tech.
      No real reason other than appearance.

      That being said a good welder can put down an excellent looking bead (and more important a structurally sound one) with a MIG. Given the proper tools, the guy running the equipment is always the biggest factor!

      Should have given more than a one word answer I suppose, didn't elaborate on mild vs. Chro-mo, are the soft interior bits still installed so is there concern over weld spatter, etc. Meant to give some more info but I was replying at work and had to dive away from my desk for a while so I hit the submit button and left.
      1969 Chevelle
      Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
      In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.

    9. #9
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      Nov 2003
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      MIG or TIG?

      Quote Originally Posted by Blown353
      Given the proper tools, the guy running the equipment is always the biggest factor!
      There's the correct answer given such a general question.
      -Matt

      Welders: The only people that think a co-worker catching on fire is funny.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Portland Oregon
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      Actually 4130 can be wired fed (mig) with proper wire and gas. Sanctioning bodies do not allow mig-ing 4130 because it is easier to screw up. If I am doing a cage for a Pro-touring street car, I tig weld it. The quality of the weld and looks are better and Pro-Touring is about quality and looks. If it is a race car and is Mild Steel, MIg weld is the only way.

      I can buy 4130 for the same price as DOM now. Stay away from the ERW, will save a few dollars but it is crap.

      Tig welding should only be about twice as long if you are doing a straight forward 6-8 points. Takes longer if you are doing multiple door bars.

      Tig weld it if you can. If the welder does not have as much experience as Speedy and I, it is easy to get huge welds around the tube joints and will detract from the over all appearance.

      First pic of Mig on 1020, Second of Tig 4130 and third is of a Welder's cars (home Job). Failed tech and I have to remove the whole cage.
      Attached Images Attached Images      
      Last edited by cagedruss; 08-02-2006 at 03:51 PM.

    11. #11
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      Holt crap, that last pic looks like the cage puked! No wonder it failed tech.
      Nick R.
      69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
      08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
      Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
      Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?

    12. #12
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      SCCA does allow mig welded cages.
      True T.

      Whats new with Project 1/2-Trak?


      Follow my wisecracks on Sports, Food, Politics and other BS on Twitter.

      My blog

      When they kick out your front door, How you gonna come?
      With your hands on your head, Or on the trigger of your gun?

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      957
      Failed tech and I have to remove the whole cage.
      I hope the owner of the car isn't too upset about having to have the entire cage re-done, because if that weld (or whatever you call it) is ANY indication of the lack of quality of the rest of it, it's likely the thing wouldn't be able to do its job if needed in a crash to begin with. A false sense of security about "having a cage" in the car, when the cage won't hold up, is probably worse than not having anything and being a bit more cautious.

      I have seen way, way more bad attempts at doing a cage than I have seen good ones. Race cars included, but mostly on street cars.

      Mark




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