brake guys..opinions needed

[importkiller69ss]

ok i am in a bit if a dilema..here is what i need to know...right now i have installed ls1 front brakes...drum rear...70's vette booster and m/c and a 2nd gen trans am prop valve....i have yet to drive the car so i dont know how well the booster m/c and prop valve i have will work....i can do one of 3 things...1.if my current setup works..keep it.....2 use a ls1 booster and m/c which i have..with what prop valve....or 3 sell my current m/c and booster along with the ls1 booster and m/c and buy what ever yall recommend...i want to stay power...if i use the ls1 booster and m/c will i have to get all new lines to run to it...will i have to do alot to the rod to make it work...i know this is alot but my car should be back on the road within the month and need to sort this out and take an action so i can drive it this is my only mode of trans to summer school and work

[importkiller69ss]

any one

[Midnight68]

Well I just installed an LS1 booster and master in my 68. I have C5 fronts and LS1 rears. It wasnt too difficult of a swap I have not driven it yet hopefully within the next week or two. I can help you if you go that direction.

[importkiller69ss]

midnight.what did you do about the lines.i heard they are different..also how did you mount it to the firewall...and about the rod to the pedal..ok and one more thing what do i do about a proportioning valve...if you could answer any of these that would be great

[Midnight68]

The used booster and MC came with the lines from the MC. I just cut the one end off and reflared it to go into my distribution block. So it has the stock bubble flare for the MC and then the double flare for the distribution block. I am running the stock distribution block, my car was a 4 wheel drum car. The rear has a wilwood prop valve. For mounting to the firewall I took the studs off the booster and the bottom hole on the booster lines up with the top stud on the firewall allowing the rod to be perfectly lined up to go through the firewall. I then welded some extra metal onto the bottom of the booster bracket and that allowed me to bolt it on using the bottom stud on the firewall also. For the rod I simply cut the rod on the booster shorter.I also cut the original rod on the pedal shorter. I then welded them together this allows you to still have the threaded adjustment.
I hope this didnt confuse you too much let me know if you have any other questions. I got my car back together today so I will hopefully get a driveshaft this week and will let you know how it works.

[importkiller69ss]

ok so let me get this straight.. you took the lines that are coming out the ls1 m/c and flared them and got a fitting on there.....then you flared your stock lines and got a fittin on there then mated the 2 together...is this right....any pics or any more info...i may still be confused

[Midnight68]

Sorry to be confusing I dont have a pic but could get one here in the next day or two. I took the lines coming out of the LS1 mc and cut them for length and then put the original fitting that threaded into my stock distribution block onto the ls1 line and reflared that line.

[importkiller69ss]

ok ok thanks

[CAMAROBOY69]

I highly suggest the Hydratech Hydraboost if you really want an incredible system that not only looks cool but also makes some room under the hood and works about as good as it gets. You can hook it up within a couple hours if you already have power steering. If your interrested contact Paul. http://www.hydratechbraking.com/

[importkiller69ss]

yeah hydraboost is in my plans but with all the other stuff i have going i cant afford it right now......i just found out that my m/c is a 1 1/8 bore...will this work or should i get a 1" bore and adjustable prop valve and use the booster i already have..this would make things easier so i want to go that route...

[importkiller69ss]

any one know if the 1 1/8 m/c will work

[Chad-1stGen]

Based on my reading...

The larger the m/c bore size the more pedal effort will be required. If you plan to go hydroboost soon the 1 1/8 will probably work pretty good. From what I've read most people are running 1" m/c and the hydroboost guy recomends considering going up one size in m/c.

Good luck.

[importkiller69ss]

ok so for the time being i can get away with my 1 1/8 booster and then just get an adjustable prop valve for the rear..correct?

[Midnight68]

Well after some low speed testing today the brakes work great with the LS1 mc and booster. Hopefully I will get the chance tomarrow to drive some more and see how they really work

[Midnight68]

The new booster and mc are great, I am very happy with the results. I hope to tune it this weekend and do some 60-0 test I can post the results if anyone is intrested.