Recommendations for welding helmet

[DRJDVM's '69]

I'm pretty new to welding and so far I've been using a cheap used helmet that I picked up at the local trade school I've been taking lessons at. Basically it does the job, but the shade is a bit dark for my eyesight and the "flip down" control is crap.

The biggest issues I keep having is being able to see where I should be heading with the puddle or having my hand move when I flip the shield down and then my start point is way off the mark. So basically I either start at the wrong point or find myself trailing off line while doing my weld because I cant see the joint very well.

I'm sure some of this is just due to inexperience, but I figured its time to step up and buy an autodarkening helmet.

So I'm not a pro and I dont weld 20 hours a week or anything, so I'm not interested in breaking the bank to buy a top of the line helmet. My budget is roughly $150-175 ( $200 at the most). I also dont really want a big airbrushed mural on the side either.

So any suggestions for my budget and needs ??

[astroracer]

http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...eet.asp?p=9777
I got the Silver Elite auto-darkening when I got my Tig machine. I like it alot.
I have looked at the Habour Freight helmets but I didn't like the way they fit. I may pick one up though to try it out and to have an extra one on hand...

[PT Goat]

I'd recommend one of the Miller/Hobart auto-dimming models. Best price I could find was through Amazon.com, but the item actually ships through a company in NJ called J.W. Goodliffe & Son Inc. Total with shipping was about $170. I love it, it has helped my welding immensely.

[Matt@RFR]

Personally, I can't stand the auto-dark hoods. (As an aside, if you walk into a fabrication shop, on the west coast anyway, and ask for a helmet, they'll look at you pretty funny) Can you see well with the hood you have now? If you can, then I would suggest either a Miller or a Speed Glass. I own a Hobart, but use it strictly for times when I have a ton of tacks to do, and wouldn't use it for anything else, ever.

If you can't, then I would suggest trying a manual hood. If the green color you get with auto's screws your vision up, you can get lenses for the manuals in blue, black and gold.

Be aware that there is a chance of getting flashed with an auto-dark hood when welding in tight spaces (something could block the sensor) or with low-amp TIG welds (not enough light to trigger the hood).

If you want to get better with your manual hood, then before you flip it down, stick the wire (MIG) or tungsten (TIG) directly on the metal where you want to start your weld. You should be able to keep it put when you flip your hood down, but if it does move, then you can just feel around with the wire or tungsten and get back to where you should be. Besides all that, you should be really well braced to run a good weld (especially true for beginners), and that would make it easier to flip your hood down and not move the torch or gun.

[DRJDVM's '69]

I'm down to either a Miller XLi or a Speedglass 9000x

I'd like the Milller Elite. but the cost is more than I'm willing to spend for a "hobby" helmet...... if I were a pro, I would drop that much $$...

[wendell]

What process do you use the most? I've got a cheap auto dark Hobart hood for MIG and a big window Elite for TIG. The Elite is to nice for MIG or stick welding but is an ablotue pleasure for TIG. Mines black but only because the Real Tree wasn't out when i bought it.

[DRJDVM's '69]

Pure MIG at this point. No imediate plans for TIG in the near future but we'll see....

[mikey]

I use a speedglass 9000 at work the only thing I hate about it is when the batteries go dead when I'm in the middle of welding something. It can make you see spots.