Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 15 of 15
    1. #1
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States

      I need help/advice from you guys bigtime!!!

      Here's some background:---I've got a 68 firebird, small block chevy in it with stock suspension. I have 15 inch pontiac rims now, but I'd like to get a nice set of 17's on it in the future. I want to upgrade the suspension, but not to race it, just to have a decent corner carver on the street.

      My problem lies here, before I saw this site, I was just gonna pick up a g-machine kit from performance suspension components and figured that would be what I was lookin for, but after reading so many different threads on here, I am completely confused as to what to put in this suspension. This is going to be my first time tearing a suspension apart, so I'm somewhat clueless at this point. (everything I've done up to this point on the car has been a learning experience) I'm on a somewhat limited budget, I'll have about $1200 in july to spend on it, so please help me, steer me in the right direction as to what to get. If you need any more vehicle info let me know. I don't need to sound helpless here, I just want to spend my money wisely. I guess what I'm asking is, if you were in my boat, what would you guys do to make this thing handle nice without breaking the bank? thanks a bunch guys.

      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Indianapolis, Indiana
      Posts
      337
      Country Flag: United States

      suspension advice

      DSE stuff is nice but your budget may pose an issue. One avenue, might be g-mod, which is basically free. Pick up an issue of Popular Hot rodding magazine (July 2006) it covers it in detail. then rebuild your front with good bushings, springs, and shocks. This will take half your budget for the front. This would leave you enough for good bushings, springs and shocks for the back. DSE or Hotchkiss could help here, they both offer excellent leaf springs, shocks and bushings. I would say check both their websites out. I am personally going to run a 3" drop DSE spring and shock in the back of my car. One thing I forgot to tell you, check out the GP superstore forum for Group purchase deals!
      Ben Mowery

      67 Firebird -Powered by Pontiac w/ RAM AIR V.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      thanks ben, the $1200 won't be the entire budget for it, but thats what I will have by july. I will eventually have more dough to play with, so I'm just lookin for the best place to start. I'd like to get started on it this summer, with big hopes of the suspension being completed by next summer.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2002
      Location
      San Jose, CA
      Posts
      1,793
      I'd say on $1200 do the following

      1) Subframe bushings
      $100/kit from Global West. This job is a PITA, but if you don't have a solid subframe to body connection everything else is a waste of $

      2)Guldstrand Mod
      This relocation of the upper a-arm will do wonders for your front suspension geometry. Buy the template from Guldstrand, its $10.

      3) four Edelbrock Shocks and Hotchkis front springs.
      The springs are stiffer and lower than stock. The Edelbrock shocks are the best compromise shocks on the market for a street car.
      $75/each for shocks. ~$130 for the springs.

      4) New tie rods, center link, idler arm, pitman arm, and balljoints.
      Just buy the stuff from Moog.

      5) Del-A-Lum a-arm bushings
      These are the best bushings money can buy. Install them and you will never regret it.

      6) Rear springs.
      If you have mono-springs, convert to multileaf. I believe Classic industries has a good deal on leafs right now.
      1971 Camaro, 383 stroker ~500HP,M21 Trans with lightened flywheel. All Sorts of Auto-x Goodness in the Suspension. 12" Brakes ->SOLD

      But ask me about my 2004 STi Auto-x car...

      Just call me Brett

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      westchester county new york
      Posts
      2,995
      Last but not least, an alignment by a guy that understands what you are trying to accomplish. Drive the car when you are done and think about where it still needs help.

      If you still have cash after the things above are done consider a steering box, your stock box might be shot.

      Then think about a nice steering wheel and seats that keep you from moving around.

      I like lowend and Bens advice, start with the basics and work your way down.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      Cedar Rapids, IA
      Posts
      999
      Lowend and vanzuuk1 hit it on the head. Once you follow their advice you can do other mods one step at a time. I would say go for the 17/18 inch rims next.
      Some times I'm fast sometimes I'm half-fast

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Houston,TX
      Posts
      1,159
      Country Flag: United States
      Everybody has provided some great advice here. Follow Lowend's list and you should have a killer setup on a budget. The only thing I could suggest if you have the extra coin is possibly a QA1 coilover conversion for shock and ride height adjustability, and a quality 1" or 1-1/8" sway bar up front.
      71' Nova - LY6, T56

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2003
      Location
      Arvada, Co
      Posts
      2,119
      Country Flag: United States
      I would stay away from the QA1s due to thier pathetic spring rates. The 1.125 hollow sway bar is needed though.
      Brian


      I have an unlimited budget. That bad part is I have already used it up.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2002
      Location
      Muskegon, MI
      Posts
      4,494
      If your on a limited budget like I am then you would be extremely impressed with how well it would handle just by lowering it a little. I lowered my entire car for only $60.00 and it corners real well!!
      I cut my front coils and de-arched my rear leafs. I have been running it on road tracks since last year. Now I have QA1 shocks on only the rear and I am quite happy with them. ($300 rear pair) I want a set for the front.
      Your car will be even better once you get the 17" wheels and tires.
      Last edited by CAMAROBOY69; 05-31-2006 at 07:36 AM.
      Adam_______Offical Car Name "ILLUSION"
      383 Stroker, Stock cast heads, T-56 tranny, 4.11 gears, 2002 T/A dash, 4th gen interior including seatbelts, power lumbar seats, 18" Budnik Wheels, Hydraboost, QA1 shocks, DC Controller, Power steering conversion, fuel cell, unique exhaust set up........
      ILLUSION Website-----------Old Website--------------My Car on Lateral-g.net----------- Need something designed?-AdFabDesign

    10. #10
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      I will definitely do what lowend suggested since most of you agree with it. how much of a drop should I get for the springs, 2 inch in the front and maybe a 1.5 inch drop from the leafs??
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      westchester county new york
      Posts
      2,995
      This will start a debate but it s very difficult to get your ride height correct on the first shot. These cars seem to have their own quirks and ride height seems to be the trickiest. Go to carl c's site or search this site for the afco ride height adjusters, its a threaded collar/spring combo that lets you tune the ride height without cutting. You still have to pull the front end apart but you dont have to buy new springs to raise it back up a little. When you are done the ball joint center should be a little lower than the lower control arm pivot,about a half inch.

      Go to carls site and david pozzis site and read them over and over, tons of info there.

      A two inch drop spring in the back may be a good start, just remember it might raise your car a little since your current springs can be sagging.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      one other question, will adding traction bars help, not help or hurt in my application?
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      westchester county new york
      Posts
      2,995
      Not many cars on this site use traction bars, most good aftermarket leafs reduce wheelhop.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      676
      Country Flag: United States
      Finally started to buy some of the goodies I need. Today I purchased the global west solid body mount kit and their subframe connectors. Then I purchased the front end rebuild kit from performance suspension components. then I ran out of money, LOL. gotta wait a month or two for more exciting stuff.

      oh yea, I ordered the guldstrand motorsports catalogue which came with the g-mod templates.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Posts
      34
      I really like to Afco spring adjusters w/ the 9.5" x 5" springs. They're easy to install, allow easy ride height adjustment, and offer the ability to (easily) change spring rates (new springs are cheap and readily available).




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com