My Mark VIII fan/DC Controller install...1980 Camaro

[engine]

Finally got to pretty much finish the fan installation. There is just one piece of sheetmetal I have to install on the underside of the rad support to the bottom of the fan shroud. There is about a 3/4"W x 18"L gap that is bypassing the radiator.

This installatin kicked the crap out of me and took about a week's time (not a full week 8 hrs a day...but a few hrs here and there). I made shroud extensions that completely cover the radiator side to side since the fan is 22x19, and my rad is 27x19, and had to engineer and make my own top mounting brackets. All out of stainless. The shroud ext's are 20' gage, and the brackets are 12 gage stainless. Lot of measuring, cutting, fitting, welding, grinding, and more fitting. Do it right the first time; measure twice, cut once.

Installed the DC controller and made the wiring as clean as possible.

Did the test run this morning. Basically an idle test, because that's where most of the problems come in.

The controller is set to keep a 180* setpoint without any of the supplied jumpers installed. In my case, the controller set this way kept about a 210* setpoint. I'm not sure if it is because of my copper/brass radiator, or if my Autometer gage isn't reading right (I doubt it), or if the sensor for the controller is a bit off. I'm going to clean the fins of the rad and re-insert the temp sensor again to see if it makes a difference. Maybe oxidation and/or paint on the fins is acting as an insulator.



I then installed the -14* jumper, and it brought my temp down to about 205*. then installed the -22* jumper, and got about 200*. Then installed both of the above jumpers to get a total of -32* setpoint. Brought me down to about 190*. Then installed the "Underdrive" jumper to give me minimum 10% current to the fan whenever the IGN is on. This let it settle at 183* on my mechanical autometer gage, probe in the intake. Voltage to the fan motor varied between 4.5 volts and 6.5 volts, fan running about 50% max to keep 183*.. Idling for half hour, the fan never went 100%...never really needed to. I'm going to try some things and contact the manufacturer of the DC controller and find out if this is all normal.

I measured about 70* ambient air temperature, and 150* discharge temperature from the radiator. I guess what is going on, the fan is moving so slow, letting the air coming through the radiator pick up a great deal of heat. I haven't tried it driving yet. Maybe tomorrow.

Anyone else with the Delta Controller, how is it working for you?
Here are some pic's of the install.

[engine]

I did some more checking, and I found something interesting.

With the "Underdrive" jumper installed, with power to the A/C terminal, fan should turn on 100%. Now I'm assuming 100% means full 12 volts to the fan motor. With my controller, I measured 8.65 volts at the output terminals. When I connect the motor directly to the Batt, it moves considerably more. I'm wondering if there is an error somewhere in the unit...
But after email with Brian, the engineer of this unit, turns out that the A/C switch is analog input, and depending on what voltage goes in, you'll get a different output voltage. I tried it with the engine running, giving a full 14.2 volts to the A/C switch, I got 13.8 volts to the motor. So that is working fine.

The real test will be when I finally get to drive it. I'll keep posting.

[derekf]

Interesting stuff. I don't have the DC unit (yet) so I can't help, but this is still interesting to read. Nice pics; thanks for the update.

[engine]

Well, I drove the car tonight. It was 70* and breezy. With the Underdrive Jumper in place, engine temp sort of hovered around 185* cruising below 25 mph. I then took out the Underdrive jumper, and only had the 2 jumpers that set (engine) entering water temperature to 148*. The (engine)leaving water temp pretty much stayed at 190* cruising. Then on highway at 60 mph, dropped to 180*. I guess this was due to ram air effect. Then leaving water went back up to 190* when I stopped. Fan motor was running between 3.8 volts and 4.8 volts to maintain that temperature. I put the Underdrive Jumper back in, which maintained an average of 4.5 volts to the motor constantly, and engine leaving water temps were back to about 185*.



I installed the fan a little late in the year, because I don't think we'll have any more 90* days here. I'll have to wait until next year and see what it does then. The one other thing that concerns me now with this fan setup, is underhood temperatures. The fan moves at a slow speed, and does keep normal engine temperatures. But due to the slow fan speed, the temperature of the air exiting the radiator is very hot. I have an open element air filter, and I'm sure it will hurt my intake air density, but to what extent, I'm not sure. Will it cause a lean condition? I may have to fabricate a hood seal to my cowl hood scoop...I did that once before, but the design was less than perfect. I'll have to start from scratch with the next one. With the cowl scoop open to the engine compartment, I can see the hot air displacing cooler outdoor air, as the underhood air exits from the hood scoop at the base of the windshield. Kind of freaky...

But in all, I do seriously believe I did pick up a few ponies with the clutch fan removed, that I can notice in the pedal. I accidentally squealed the meats at 1/4 throttle leaving a stop sign...

[WS6]

excuse my ignorance, but what is the DC controller and what does it do? also do you mean mark8 lincoln fan or is this something different? thanks

[Woody]

Anyone else with the Delta Controller, how is it working for you?

I just installed my DC Controller this weekend and was very impressed with how well it worked. My car ran at a very steady 180 to 185 no matter if I was idling or on the freeway. I have the jumper set at the 187 degree setting. Before, the DC controller, the temperature was much more erratic. At idle it would heat up to about 195 until the fan came on and cooled it down to 175. The temperature would cycle back and forth unless the car was moving. It was very clear when the fan came on. Now with the DC controller I have a hard time knowing when the fan comes on.

[Woody]

excuse my ignorance, but what is the DC controller and what does it do? also do you mean mark8 lincoln fan or is this something different? thanks

Here is a link to their website http://www.dccontrol.com/index.htm

Basically, the DC controller controls the fan speed and helps maintain a more constant coolant temperature.

[69HuggrrrPT]

Another vote here for the Mark VIII & DC controller.

[WS6]

thanks i appreciate it.

[WS6]

i built a 76 vette using a dewitts radiator with dual spal fans. on the dyno this car would cycle the temp the fans and radiator were so efficient. this would be a good addition to it i think. ill definetly have to remember this for the next electric fan conversion.

[engine]

i built a 76 vette using a dewitts radiator with dual spal fans. on the dyno this car would cycle the temp the fans and radiator were so efficient. this would be a good addition to it i think. ill definetly have to remember this for the next electric fan conversion.

It definately would be a great addition. Even as "inefficient" as my 4-row copper/brass radiator is, I haven't seen the fan run over 6 volts. This controller does a fantastic job of maintaining coolant temperature. And when the description says "fast acting temperature sensor", he ain't $hittin'. With my volt meter hooked to the output connections, I can see just how much the fan is ramping up and down to maintain a constant temperature, and how often. And it's not like it turns on and off like a relay, it ramps up and down within range of a volt or 2. Coolest piece of equipment I have ever bought for this car.
I deal with variable frequency drives on AC motors at work, and this controller is just about the same deal.

[WS6]

very cool. i like the idea behind it and think i will see about using it in the future.

[cad]

I have been researching the use of the DC controller as well. From what I understand, you should also be conscious of the amount of amps that the fan/controller is pulling from your alternator if not using the controller.
The beautiful thing about the controller is that the fan runs all the time only at the speed/cfm needed to maintain a temperature, and, therefore, never spikes the amperage (as much as 57 amps) needed to start these fans from zero, which is how traditional temp switch controls function.
www.dccontrol.com also lists the exact blueprint dimensions of the Mark VIII and Taurus 3.8 fan assembly.
What also is important to note is that cycling the temp on an engine from 180 to 220 before a fan kicks in is killing your engine. Maintaining 180, or whatever, is much better for an engine.
My 2cents.

[CAMAROBOY69]

This thread was loaded with good info and killer install pics.

[BEEBE]

I just wrapped up a DC Controller / Mark VIII install on my 72 Bird.

I love the unit already...........Now i can actually hear whats going on in my engine , Instead of the loud WHHHOOOOSSSHHHH i was getting from the flex a lite fan. With the fan operating @ slower speeds you cant even hear it.

I like the look of the low prolile fan / shroud , Now that the stock HUGE shroud is gone ...


I have not drove the car , but the unit works flawlessly idling in the garage for a 1/2 hour as i messed with a few things.


I have only 2 MINOR complaints of the DC controller kit. I wish they gave you 2-3 feet extra on the Power and ground wires. I had to purchase extra wire to re-route the wire where i wanted them. Granted , I did not try to call and get more wire, so ....No big deal .

And , One minor detail, I ordered the suppressor to intall the unit when batteries are in the trunk, the instructions specified on the power connection install but not on the ground connection. Once again ...No big Deal !

Great product, great service !!

I will post pictures this tonite.

[gmachinz]

Yes, please post some pics!!! We love pics!!! -Jabin

[BEEBE]

Here is some pictures of my dc contoller / mark VIII fan instsall.

I cut off the oem mounting tabs on the ele fan , Fabbed up some cheap brackets for the top and bottom.

This install was part of a small project to install my 72 formula hood- including a quick spray of engine paint, Tomahawk intake install, and minor engine bay detail / clean up.

Its coming along nicely, i have a few more things to wrap up before im ready to bolt on / align the hood . And try to figure out how big of a airfilter i can fit.

Beebe

[BEEBE]

here is a before shot of the engine bay

[Analog-kid]

From all the good things I've heard I am definitely interested in converting to an electric fan setup with the DC controller in my 80 Camaro while I have my front end apart. I do have a couple of quick questions for those with experience.:
Did you guys buy your fan and controller separately?
Has anyone used the integrated fan and control kit from DC ?
http://www.dccontrol.com/
Their 18 in fan and controller (3018)are what I'm thinking of getting. I haven't bought any parts as of yet and that seems to be a reasonable price for the fan and control together.

[cad]

I bought my controller direct from DC. Jabin /gmachinz is also a good source for the parts and info. I bought a good used fan, but either way you cannot go wrong....