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    Results 1 to 12 of 12
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Wisconsin
      Posts
      247

      Beating for the 16millionth time dead horse

      Every thread I read on the sound deadener issue, really comes to no real winner. So I am asking what your guys opinion (hence the 16million and 1 times this has been aasked) is on this. And if you do have a definitive answer, where do you get it and how much? Basically from what I have read on all of the threads, is that you can't beat the original Dynamat. So if this is so, where is the cheapest place to get it?? I looked on E-Bay and all they have is B-Quiet Extreme with Dynamat roller. Also from what I have read I am going to need 80 sq. ft.?? So answer these two questions for me guys... What and where????

      Justin
      --------------------------------------------------
      73 Nova, 502 ci, TKO600, Mosier Eng 12 bolt, 6 point roll cage, Wilwood rear discs, factory front discs, 250 HP nitrous, subframe connectors, Slide-a-link trac bars, 17" Boyd Coddington Smoothie II's, and Hotchkis TVS kit.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      savannah,ga
      Posts
      862
      Country Flag: United States
      OK, here's my .02. I have seen and tested informally several products that people refer to as sound deadener. One being Dynamat. First of all these products do not deaden noise, they dampen vibrations of the panel to which they are applied. You dont need to cover the entire inside of the car either. If you decide to use one of these products cover about 50-60% of the interior surfaces. You will notice more dampening on large flat areas more than on curved or creased areas. The difference can be tested immediately after application by using a socket or screwdriver and tapping the panel in question before and after the application of vibration damper. This way you will be able to apply more where it is needed, inside the doors for example. Other materials are needed to prevent noise penetration into the interior of a vehicle. The products that you are questioning are good for their intended purpose, however. As far as where, I give.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2003
      Location
      Central Valley, CA
      Posts
      910
      Country Flag: United States
      As Tom said, for proper noise supression you need both a damping product to mass-load the sheetmetal which cuts down on resonance and then you need an acoustic absorber/barrier to go with it.

      For mass loading/damping panels I like B-Quiet... and for an acoustical foam I really like 1/8 thick Ensolite closed cell foam... although it adds up quick in the price department.

      Also, try to use a polymeric/rubber based (not mastic based) damping product, the mastic stuff can smell like ashpalt on hot days (because it is!)
      1969 Chevelle
      Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
      In progress: LS2, 3.0 Whipple, T56 Magnum, torque arm & watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, Mk60 ABS, vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Colorado
      Posts
      94
      I don't know if you have seen this site yet but there is some good info on it. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
      68 Camaro
      LS2 6speed
      Complete Hotchkis front and rear suspension, Global west SFC, 3rd gen steering box, C5 front rear discs w/ 4th gen booster and MC. 8.5" posi rearend with 30 Spline 12 bolt axles.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Wisconsin
      Posts
      247
      Alright, I planned on using a dampening mat of some sort (B Quiet, Dynamat, ThermoTec, etc) and then add some sort of jute padding or as previously stated, closed cell foam! Where would be the best place to buy any of these products?
      Justin
      --------------------------------------------------
      73 Nova, 502 ci, TKO600, Mosier Eng 12 bolt, 6 point roll cage, Wilwood rear discs, factory front discs, 250 HP nitrous, subframe connectors, Slide-a-link trac bars, 17" Boyd Coddington Smoothie II's, and Hotchkis TVS kit.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Wisconsin
      Posts
      247
      Answered my own question! The Link that midnight68 posted was very helpful in my decision. I am going with the Raam mat. That was a very informative link. Thanks! I plan on going with the Raam mat and Ensolite MCC sheeting closed cell foam. I figure I can use the Raam mat on 80% of the car (1 roll covers 62 sq. ft) and if need be patch in with some lower grade mat. Then cover the whole thing with the closed cell foam. It may not be the absolute best, but the price and performance fit my budget. For right around $200 I can sound deaden and insulate the car. Thanks guys! As always you have came to the rescue!
      Justin
      --------------------------------------------------
      73 Nova, 502 ci, TKO600, Mosier Eng 12 bolt, 6 point roll cage, Wilwood rear discs, factory front discs, 250 HP nitrous, subframe connectors, Slide-a-link trac bars, 17" Boyd Coddington Smoothie II's, and Hotchkis TVS kit.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Mesa, AZ
      Posts
      133
      i will just throw a few ideas out there. I am poor but that doesnt stop me from getting the desired results. I tried ruberized roofing patch and that didnt work so well. Heres a few things that worked though.
      The rubber mats that go under treadmills and such can be cut out to the shape you need and stuck with adhesive(spray or other) to any panels you need to dampen. Then use rubberized undercoating to get to any places you cant stick the mat. Expandable foam(great stuff is the brand I use) works well in hollow areas like the trunk reinforcements and pillars and stuff. Another idea I had but have not tried yet is the padding you put under wood flooring. It is around an eighth of an inch for the thicker stuff and is closed cell foam I believe. Check the wood floor section of your friendly neighborhood home depot or lowes to see what I mean(it comes in big rolls). Also good old jute padding always works great and doesnt break the bank. I am trying find cheaper alternatives that are readily available to accomplish the same thing as more expensive specialty car products. Anyone else have any more ideas?

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      florida
      Posts
      199
      dude, you make good suggestions, EXCEPT for the great stuff. that is the worst thing you can do, it traps moisture and will rot out your car faster than you can blink. trust me i know, i tried it in my doors on the elcamino. 2 months later i had no lower door skins, inner or outer. now im lookin at 200 dollars to repair my doors just for sheetmetal.
      Tough guys may wear pink, but Bad Asses still wear black.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Mesa, AZ
      Posts
      133
      great stuff would have been fine even in your door if you had left a low spot with a hose to the bottom of the door for drainage. I have not used it in a door for this same reason but there are lots of dead spaces that can produce NVH inside the car that can be filled.
      Good point though...great stuff is...well...great stuff for most small spaces except those areas that need to drain.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Wisconsin
      Posts
      247
      Well I just talked to Rick at Raam Audio and he was very helpful and freindly to deal with! From the reviews I have read about the products he sells and his willingness to go the extra mile and discuss with you about what you will expect, I give him a A+. He was very freindly, got my order processed the same day and sat and actually wrote me a e-mail discussing what was up and about some of his projects and aspirations. So for anyone wanting to deaden there interior without breaking the bank on higher priced stuff, definately drop Rick an e-mail. Couldn't express enough and how satisfied I was placing my money with him!
      Justin
      --------------------------------------------------
      73 Nova, 502 ci, TKO600, Mosier Eng 12 bolt, 6 point roll cage, Wilwood rear discs, factory front discs, 250 HP nitrous, subframe connectors, Slide-a-link trac bars, 17" Boyd Coddington Smoothie II's, and Hotchkis TVS kit.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      NYC NY
      Posts
      35
      I've always wondered how well these products stood up to the heat in the floorboards above my headers, it's gets really hot down there.
      -Jason G-

      94 Pontiac Firebird LT1,T56, 315 x 4

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      savannah,ga
      Posts
      862
      Country Flag: United States
      I haven't seen any of it that stands up to heat real well. A heat shield or header wrap should solve that.




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