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    Results 1 to 5 of 5
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Wisconsin
      Posts
      247

      How to Sound Deadener

      When you guys sound deadend your rides did you cover the entire door surface? There are all of the access holes on the door and rear quarter window access holes and the trunk divider! I don't see any beneifit from covering these holes (some of them very large like 5" by 8") because you are sound deadening the air! But I am installing roll on Raammat deadener and then closed cell foam. Do I not cover the holes with the deadener and then cover them with the closed cell foam? Or not cover them with either? Just curious as to how some of you have done it! Did you go flush to all of the components like that wiper crank, door handles, etc.??
      Justin
      --------------------------------------------------
      73 Nova, 502 ci, TKO600, Mosier Eng 12 bolt, 6 point roll cage, Wilwood rear discs, factory front discs, 250 HP nitrous, subframe connectors, Slide-a-link trac bars, 17" Boyd Coddington Smoothie II's, and Hotchkis TVS kit.

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Huntington Beach, CA
      Posts
      2,420
      Country Flag: United States
      I've been doing a lot of research on the sound deadening issue myself and have not finished. Also I have not installed any yet as I am still gathering info.

      That said, what I understand is that best results is to put the sound deadening on the outer door skin. The inner part of the door is best served by using a sound barrier. Some people also have sealed off all of the holes in the door that you speak of with metal flashing and then put sound deadening on that too.

      If someone has practical experience maybe they can jump in here

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Wisconsin
      Posts
      247
      I talked to Rick from Raam Audio today and he also said that they use some thin metal or even screen door repair mesh screen to cover the hole. They use selt tapping screws and hold the metal down and for future access and then sound deaden and foam over it. But I do not want to put 20 holes in my doors just to screw some metal in there! Anyone else have any other ideas?? Rick also says that you gain very little benefit from sound deadening your outer door skin if you have no door speakers. If you have speakers in the doors he said sound deaden the outer and inner door! I am putting deadener in tonight and really hope someone chimes in here!!!!!
      Justin
      --------------------------------------------------
      73 Nova, 502 ci, TKO600, Mosier Eng 12 bolt, 6 point roll cage, Wilwood rear discs, factory front discs, 250 HP nitrous, subframe connectors, Slide-a-link trac bars, 17" Boyd Coddington Smoothie II's, and Hotchkis TVS kit.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      savannah,ga
      Posts
      862
      Country Flag: United States
      The sound deadener is more accurately referred to as vibration damper IMHO. If you cover the metal area and leave the holes open I would bet that you will accomplish most of what you set out to do. Remember that a large flat panel, like an outer door skin will resonate quite easily. Some damping material here should work well, too. I have found that doors rattle mostly from glass/latching mechanisms and the associated actuating hardware. I would suggest starting with a rust preventer like POR15 or similar product, if you notice rust under the floor padding then you have an example of what can happen to the metal under the various damping materials. The installation of tight fitting and properly adjusted hardware that wont rattle when driving will provide almost the same level of "quiet" that a bunch of damping material will, and do it for a lot less money. I recommend taking a section of the car and installing the products that you have and test the damping effect of your work. Tap the bare panel with a screwdriver, etc. Then do it again once you are satisfied that enough material is in place. This simple test will surprise you and make the installation much more effective.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Wisconsin
      Posts
      247
      I geuss after thinking of it for awhile. I plan on putting the vibration dampening (sounds better I geuss) over the door and leaving the holes open on this step. For the next step (closed Cell foam) I will cover the entire door because the closed cell is more for sound. So if I cover the entire door with this and mark out the areas with a marker for the acces holes! I will have the vibration taken care of with the Raammat and the noise taken care of with the Ensolite foam, then if I ever need to get in the inner door in the future I will know right where they are to cut with a knife and be able to access the internal hardware. Now you got me to thinking about using the POR15 on the floors before I install Raammat and Ensolite. And to think this whole project started by pulling the motor to put new oil pan on, then welded up firewall, then rewire whole car, then sound deaden, then`new gauges, then new column,and now POR15! holy snoball effect Batman! We'll see I geuss!

      Justin
      --------------------------------------------------
      73 Nova, 502 ci, TKO600, Mosier Eng 12 bolt, 6 point roll cage, Wilwood rear discs, factory front discs, 250 HP nitrous, subframe connectors, Slide-a-link trac bars, 17" Boyd Coddington Smoothie II's, and Hotchkis TVS kit.





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