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    1. #12
      Join Date
      Jul 2002
      Location
      Muskegon, MI
      Posts
      4,494
      I just got off the phone with Jabin and he gave me all the answers I needed. We also learned that my current relay is fried. When my car got hot I would get something called "run on". This means my car would stay running when I turned off the ignition. The relay was soo hot it was fusing together causing the majority of my problems. He is sending me a new surge protector. The surge protector keeps the dc controller at 12v. The grey cable is a fusible link like gchandler said. It also sais right on the wire. He said I can hook the dc controller power source right to the junction block as long as the block is 12.3-12.4 volts. If it is 14volts I cant hook to it. I learned a lot in 15 minutes. I need to buy something to test the volts to make sure. I currently have nothing to check that. He also said that the dc controller will automatically turn the fan on when the temperature in the radiator is 180* NOT THE ENGINE TEMPERATURE. This is where everyone gets confused. If I start my engine and my temperature gauge sais 200* then I need to add the jumpers to lower the temperature. Very very cool little system. Cant wait until my surge protector arrrives so I can hook this up and ditch the crappy relay.

      Now that this thread is answered it can be placed into the cooling thread. t/y to those that answered.

      Adam_______Offical Car Name "ILLUSION"
      383 Stroker, Stock cast heads, T-56 tranny, 4.11 gears, 2002 T/A dash, 4th gen interior including seatbelts, power lumbar seats, 18" Budnik Wheels, Hydraboost, QA1 shocks, DC Controller, Power steering conversion, fuel cell, unique exhaust set up........
      ILLUSION Website-----------Old Website--------------My Car on Lateral-g.net----------- Need something designed?-AdFabDesign





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