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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2003
      Location
      Maine
      Posts
      1,076

      Hardner

      you always should match your hardner with the temp it is working in, there is no reason to use a fast hardner when its 80, you want a slow, this is more than likely the problem you are having, when using the right hardner i can go 1-2 hrs without gumming up, and even if it does it comes right out of it once you spray alittle.
      jake



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Austin, in the great Nation of Texas
      Posts
      48
      Thanks Jake, the paint store keeps giving me the MH165 hardener. I looked it up at http://www.tricitypaint.com/docs.html, a great resource by the way, and they do make a slower hardener MH166. I'll try some of that next time I spray.

      That, along with some of the other advice from the board and I'm sure I'll get it dialed in.

      Thanks guys!

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      1,070

      Paint

      That is actually pretty common situation. Try bigger tip set up as those surfacers are pretty thick to begin with and clog frequently. You did say surfacer right? If you have sufficient flash time use paint not time as guide. Throw a little reducer to thin it up a bit coming out of gun. Also if this is home job check your compressor as sometimes pressure drops and moisture in lines create havok and gets worse as you spray. If you still have problem you can pull off cap and tip between rounds and clean out. You will see how clogged up they get. I usually reduce a little even if not recommended by paint MFG and go up atleast one tip size and can go two to three rounds with some slow down on third.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Rockford Illinois
      Posts
      3,949
      Country Flag: United States

      Gravity feed guns .......

      If you have a gravity feed gun you can use a bag that seals like a ziplock that will eliminate the air from getting to it at all. Since the primer will not be exposed to air it might not thicken up.It draws the bag in until it is vacuum sqeezed out. You waste less material since you can get closer to the last drop without the usual problems.

      I have a Finishline by Devilbiss that came with the bags. You can actually turn the gun upside down and never spill a drop or clog or spatter and it just keeps spraying.

      You can get these bags through Eastwood and get the adapters to fit many different guns and the installation tool too!

      They are worth every penny just in the savings in solvents since you never get your cup dirty so there is less needed to clean.

      Once you use the bags you will never go back and I really think it may solve your problem.If it doesn't you will still be glad you are using the bags anyway.


      Goodluck, Jim Nilsen

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Austin, in the great Nation of Texas
      Posts
      48
      Hey Jim, thanks. I'll look into the bags since it sounds like we're using the same gun!

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      NY
      Posts
      1,070
      Bags are great for easy clean up but usually the problem with non primer specific guns is the thick surfacers dry and clog in the tip area. As you spray the air simply dries up the paint that is ultra thick to begin with. Easiest way out is to put amount for 1 pass in gun and after pass blow out with reducer then take off tip and clean. Leave total mixed amount in sealed cup. You are now ready to spray. A little messy but hey either that or spend the bucks for better set up. Sata guns clean very easy but then again some of the offshore stuff are almost direct knock offs and work great for the money for primer. The Finish line is ok? for thick primers? Whatever you do stay away from Sharpe Cobalt. Worst primer gun I ever owned.




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