POR-15--First Time User-Now Long Time User

[jelky68]

I know it has been posted many times but I had to let everyone know of my experience with POR-15...I just got done with my frame and all I can say is UNBELIEVEABLE!!!!..It went on easy,second coat went on easy and the finish is excellent...I simply followed their guidelines on preparation and the frame is simply awesome..I will post pics as soon as possible...I know there have been alot of different opinions but I had excellent success and would recommend to anyone...I can tell you that I bought a gallon and thought I would be short painting my 1966 Impala Wagon frame(Quite long I might say) but I have well over a half gallon left so now I can do the underneath of the body and my inner fenders...Just my .02 to people who have question about this product...

[Rick Dorion]

Don't get brake fluid on it I too like it for my frame.

[Flyboy]

I just coated my subframe with this stuff last night. I was amazed that, even though I did it with a brush, I look back on an area I had done just a few minutes prior and it leveled itself out beautifully! It looks like it was sprayed on (was the comment I got by a couple of people passing through the shop).

A couple of things I learned from this experience...

1) The can says wear gloves or it will stain your hands and only time will get the stains out. After 15 minutes of scrubbing my hands with orange pumice hand cleaner when I got home... ummm... they're not kidding.

2) I kind of brain farted and used POR-15's self etching primer prior to coating it with the POR-15 coating. YES, I know I was supposed to do it over bare metal (my subframe had even been media blasted ). So I guess this will be interesting to see what happens.

Rick/Jelky... how long did it take the items you POR-15'd to finally dry to where you could handle the parts with no trouble? It sure seems like it's taking a long time to set. When we left the shop last night, it had been a three or four hours since I had layed the stuff on and it was still very tacky. Haven't seen it yet today. I'm sure a factor that wasn't helping any was that the shop was rather chilly last night too.

[rocketrod]

A couple of things I learned from this experience...

1) The can says wear gloves or it will stain your hands and only time will get the stains out. After 15 minutes of scrubbing my hands with orange pumice hand cleaner when I got home... ummm... they're not kidding.

Lacquer thinner does a pretty good job of removing it.

[Ralph LoGrasso]

Might try some gas as well if the LT doesn't work.

[speedster]

I POR-15'd some suspension parts a few weekends ago. The stuff was completely dry in about 3 hours. We are in Florida and it was probably 72 degrees or so.

[Rubes]

Isn't that the stuff that humidity helps to cure it?? might explain why it cured faster in Florida than the Vegas desert.

[Flyboy]

Ok, update. When I went in this afternoon it was nice and dry. Not totally cured yet, but easily handled with no issues. This stuff is awesome! I think the next time I use some, i'll coat a piece of scrap metal laying around the shop and give it the old stress test (ie-hammer) to see just how durable it really is.

Just so happens we were painting one of the stock cars in the shop and there was some laquer thinner laying around, so I took advantage of it as well.

[Rick Dorion]

Temp and humidity affect drying times. You really don't want to apply it in very humid conditions

I noticed what looked like some 'pimples' in mine in some areas. If I use the stuff again, I'll pour it through a paint strainer/filter like real painters! I seem to recall reading that there might be some particles in suspension in the POR15. All in all, it is durable. I also like Eastwood Rust Encapsulator ( a lot).

[Rubes]

This is from the POR-15 web site;

POR-15 is cured and strengthened by exposure to moisture and will dry faster under extreme humidity, but moderate to dry atmospheric conditions are most desirable when applying this product, because extreme humidity may cause an immediate surface cure, trapping carbon dioxide gas below the surface. When this happens, bubbling may occur. Extreme humidity at the time of application may also interfere with proper adhesion of the POR-15 coating to metal because it's almost impossible to keep metal dry under such conditions.

They don't, however, give any indication what "extreme" humidity is. It sounds like the pimples could be caused by outgassing. It also confirms that it would have dried faster in Florida than in Vegas.

[John Monnin]

I wasn't that impressed when I used it 9 years ago, maybe it has been improved since. I sandblasted the control arms on my 69 Cutlass when I rebuilt the entire front suspension and I thought I followed all of POR's instruction. Once I bought the POR-15, The Marine clean, and the etching I had a lot more money invested than I planned. It did look really nice for a brushed on paint. The car was a daily driver and after one salty Indiana Winter the control arms were rusting, I should have saved my money and used spray paint. Now I just get everything powdercoated. The only place I would consider POR-15 is a part that has deep crevices or the inside of frame rails.

[brickyard69]

I just did my subframe with it, but now don't I have to recoat it with the chassis coat they sell. Can I just leave it or will it fade? I thought of painting over it with Eastwood Chassi Black paint.

Any ideas?