Air Sander question

[62wagon]

Hey guys - I got a bit of a question. I recently purchased a Hutchins 7544RH air/water sander - http://www.hutchinsmfg.com/products/waterb.html (bottom of page) - for clipping clear before buffing. I love the sander for what it does as far as time savings and finish. The problem is I am getting small curly "q" tracks in the clear that are faintly visible after polishing. Has anyone out there used one of these sanders or anything like it and had the same experience? I feel it is more than likely operator error, just not to sure what to do to correct it. If any of you folks could help, I would be forever thankful. Thanks!! Mark

P.S. If anyone feels this thread needs to be in the tool forum, please move it.

[toxicz28]

What grit paper are you using?
Are you sanding in stages?(1000, 1500, 2000)
My experience, if you have sanding scratches after buff/polish, you are either using too coarse a paper or not buffing/polishing enough.

[customcarpainter]

I'm not a big fan of the air powered water sander,especially since your obviously not in a production type setting.If you still have sand scratches after it has been buffed,your not buffing enough.What kinda compound and buffing pads are you using?What speed are you running on the buffer while buffing?Do you let the weight of the buffer work the buffer or do you apply slight pressure as your buffing?I'm going to say most of your problem is in your technique.Your technique most likely just needs some tweaking.

[ProdigyCustoms]

I hate color sanding with a DA. Quickest way back to the paint booth I know! When hand blocking or sponge blocking clear, you have the chance to feel the paint and feel when you are slick, with a DA it's just blazing guns and opps. Too much chance of making the clear to thin, even if you do not break through. Like custom painter, if I was nibbing some dust from the middle of a flat hood on a Nissan, I might grab the DA, for a custom job, I start the job with a block and end with one.

I go cut with 600, then 1000, quick 1500, quick 2000, and a firm 3000 trizact (by hand), then use the Trizact compund on the coarse foam pad, then the black foam with the trizact compound.

[62wagon]

Thanks for the input guys. I think I will be putting the DA in the cabinet and grabbing the sponge from here forward. I am very new to the paint finishing world and have a lot to learn. A friend recommended the sander but I guess I did take into consideration that he is in a production shop and not doing custom work. This site is just to cool for the info that can be gained. I am off to sand (by hand that is). Thanks again, Mark

[SPEEDZONE]

I had a hutchins air/water colorsand DA 13 years ago, used it once, and hated it. I now dry colorsand with a DA and the 1000 grit. I then use 1500 and 2000 wet with the sponge pad by hand. You get the best of both worlds: The speed of the DA and the good result by hand

[J2speedandcustom]

The curly q's are a build up of material in the sanding pad no way around it.
I'm with Frank here, on a production type job you could start with a DA, but definitely want to finish by hand.
A common mistake is not sanding enough. The first grit should take out all the dirt, runs, etc. All the other grits from there are just taking out scratches. So 1500 takes out 1000, 2000 take out 1500 and so on. Don't try and rely of buffing to take out big scratches. It's way easier to sand them out!

Best tip I can give is - take your time and buff until you can't see any scratches.

[mikey]

I love my waterbug strictly use it on fairly flat areas though. Just took awhile to get used to it.

[69 Hugger 396]

I bought a Dynabrade DA to color sand with a few years ago. I think it's in my sandpaper cabinet somewhere.. really don't care. Wet sanding with a block is the only way to go, a DA won't cut the "flutter" out of the paint and I found that the marks were tough to buff out. I really agree with Frank and Jeff . As in most cases the easy way out is not the best, in my opinion.

[Duesey]

I use an AFS adjustable board sander with 800 to block the cottage cheese flat and then switch to 2000 grit with the same sander. Around 14" long and it works great. I bought a waterbug to replace the 2000 hand sanding. Knowing that the 800 grit knocks down the waves and such, I could then use the waterbug for finishing. Well unfortunately I tried it out on a Cord Sportsman that I had to straighten the door on. It left curly Q's and I had to repaint the door. Now I'm afraid to use it on anything good. I'll have to experiment with some newer vehicles I guess.

[danistheman_68]

as a painter for more than 20 years the problen i see the most with useing any airtool sanders is everybody moves them to fast (slow down ) let the sander cut the swirls out as you go moving it fast just makes ~~~~~~~~~ lol