Firebird LS engine placement

[Aaronb693]

We recently purchased a 1968 Firebird with a LS swap done, 5.3L truck engine with some mild work done, 4L80E transmission. They used ICT block adapters and the OEM rubber mount and frame pedestals. To me the engine looks too close to the fire wall, like it is tight. Valve cover touching the heater core tube tight. It looks like there would be room on the adapter plate to move forward a hole, oil pan should clear steering. The drive shaft is stuffed into the transmission so room to move there. It has Camaro manifolds on it which are pretty much sitting on the power steering box. I have S10 swap headers in the shopping cart to solve that.

My question is, is there a magic number for these cars as to where the engine sits best in a factory sub frame? Do I invest in a better LS swap kit? There has to be a million different versions of them out there.

Thanks, Newbie F-body owner.

[Jk918]

The holley mounts seam to be the most preferred option for ls swap 1st gen camaro and firebird. I'm running basically the same setup as you with engine in the rear most positions and basically finger tight to the firewall. The worst part was getting the headers to fit with the power steering box. I'd try moving it forward one and see how things line up. Selection of headers also can make a difference in clearance around the steering box.

[Aaronb693]

The holley mounts seam to be the most preferred option for ls swap 1st gen camaro and firebird. I'm running basically the same setup as you with engine in the rear most positions and basically finger tight to the firewall. The worst part was getting the headers to fit with the power steering box. I'd try moving it forward one and see how things line up. Selection of headers also can make a difference in clearance around the steering box.

Yeah from the research I have done, the S10 header seems to be a good option. Many hours on Youtube watching a million different opinions lol. This is a running driving car so I am trying to find a solution prior to committing to cutting exhaust and moving transmission cross member.

[slazisme]

I used the adjustable ICT Billet LS mounts, had them in the stock position and were too close to the firewall and heater core tubes, were scrapping on my 600 steering box. Moved them up one position I think about an 1" and everything worked out. Keep in mind that the trans mount had to be reworked when moving engine forward. Summit makes an adjustable trans mount that could work?https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-773200
Also remember that moving more forward could effect from accessory spacing with rad. LS1 drive spacing with no issues.




I used these 1.75" primaries mid mounts from Hooker, black ceramic coated, didn't want to have any low clearance issues with long tubes. Good deal on them now from Summit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-702015051hkr

[streetk14]

I switched over to a big block Chevy heater core when I did the LS7 swap on my bird. It moves the hoses to a much better location.

[Aaronb693]

I used the adjustable ICT Billet LS mounts, had them in the stock position and were too close to the firewall and heater core tubes, were scrapping on my 600 steering box. Moved them up one position I think about an 1" and everything worked out. Keep in mind that the trans mount had to be reworked when moving engine forward. Summit makes an adjustable trans mount that could work?
Also remember that moving more forward could effect from accessory spacing with rad. LS1 drive spacing with no issues.



I used these 1.75" primaries mid mounts from Hooker, black ceramic coated, didn't want to have any low clearance issues with long tubes. Good deal on them now from Summit.

This is probably what will happen in our case, for a few reasons. It has manifolds, so why not upgrade to headers right?!?! The trans cooler lines are also mashed into the floor and it has zero air flow around it. The drive shaft is stuffed into the back of the trans(I won't have the cost of shortening, just balance it). It has a drive line shake and it has the classic hot rod stance of "cat in heat", so move eng/trans forward and correct stance might correct driveline angle. Moving forward an inch seems to have more pros than cons. Does the oil pan(which pan do you have?) clear the steering well enough?

I'd like to get the placement perfect before the future 408 with a whipple gets built and installed.

[Josh@Ridetech]

Mine is tight as well, roughly 1" away at it's closet point (with the engine in it's "stock" location. It's tight but pretty well ideal in my opinion, however, my firewall is filled in/Vintage Air mounted inside the car. This is with ICT plates and Energy Suspension mounts so there is some adjustability available if you need it.