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    Results 21 to 27 of 27
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Somewhere out there
      Posts
      283
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 79 Camaro View Post
      I can confirm the C5 booster push rod is not adjustable.
      I can't say in regards to the 2002 Camaro master bore size wise. I just go with a NAPA unit.
      Yeah I did some more looking into it, and that's the end result I discovered as well. The C3 vette's is adjustable.
      I just ordered a 9" dual diaphragm for the GM A-Body with a Wilwood 1" bore master & prop valve from Pirate Jacks.

      My C5 calipers arrived today, along with my CPP A/F/X spindles.
      Now I just need to get the rest delivered so I can begin ripping it apart and rebuilding.

      Thanks for the input
      Quote Originally Posted by JPnTX View Post
      While I understand your point, I would counter that comparing Gen 9 and Gen 10 Accords (with and without iBoosters) is not the same as comparing a 1970 Cutlass with a vacuum booster vs. with a iBooster. There is proprietary software loaded into the iBooster in OE applications that customizes pedal feel and makes it play nice with abs and collision avoidance systems. None of that is present in a retrofit application, only the pedal position sensor is utilized. In a retrofit application the difference in braking performance isn’t just noticeable, it’s dramatic.
      Fair enough, I will just wait for the proof to be shown in autocross or something along the lines of race tested and proven over X time.
      Forgive me if I'm just anti-tech in this regard with all the over-complicated systems I've got to deal with daily,

      I just bought and sold a new Hybrid SUV I was testing out for 3 years.
      Just sold it because of the overcomplicated electronics, I got rid of it and went back to an Accord for DD



      I'm noticing a pattern of overcomplicated electronics, failures and costly repairs. I want to K.I.S.S. my setup with a multi-decade proven setup for now.


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      510
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by JPnTX View Post

      None of the pictures I posted are of show cars, all are drivers, but I’ll pass your kind comments along to those customers! One of these is my own, 10k miles on the install and driven regularly.
      Understood, didn't know if the units were actually being used or they were just installed in expensive furniture. Do you know of anyone using them in recreational racing events?
      *Jeff*
      Project Salty - 1964 4 door Malibu, beaten, neglected, red headed foster child
      Cammed LQ4 / T56 Swap Project Thread <-click to read! 😁

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Sep 2023
      Location
      Houston Texas
      Posts
      13
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Hotwire View Post
      Understood, didn't know if the units were actually being used or they were just installed in expensive furniture. Do you know of anyone using them in recreational racing events?
      Bosch makes millions of iBoosters every year. They are incredibly robust and likely up to the challenge, but my experience is that assisted braking on track cars is not optimal. I don’t personally know of any of our customers that are tracking their cars other than in a straight line but it wouldn’t surprise me if some do.

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Somewhere out there
      Posts
      283
      Country Flag: United States
      What do you guys recommend for the front brake frame mounted hard line to flex line mounts??
      These are the OEM ones that I took off and theyre all jacked up

      Need a new hard to flex line option to secure to frame
      Whats some good recommendations??
      Also any preference for flex lines for rhe C5 upgrades?

      Im not the best at knowing which brake line sizes to go with either …lol
      Any guidance would be appreciated. C5 front, Ls fbody rears, and 1” bore master 9” Dual booster
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    5. #25
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Jacksonville, FL
      Posts
      1,666
      Country Flag: United States
      Are you removing the stock distribution block (on inside of frame)? You can run the front (MC) to a T and from there to the front lines. For the rear, just plumb in an inline prop valve to the rear lines. I would call Tobin at Kore3 and get the stainless flex lines from him.
      Chris
      1968 Chevy Camaro SS
      LT4 (coming)/T56 DSE suspension

      1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass S convertible (442 Clone)
      LS3/4L70e, DSE suspension


    6. #26
      Join Date
      Sep 2015
      Posts
      70
      Country Flag: United States
      Can you shoot me the link for the setup for an A body? I have manual brakes with a wilwood big brake kit and can't stand it anymore. Also if you have and pictures of the setup installed on a A body preferably 71 chevelle. Thank you

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Dec 2024
      Posts
      7
      Quote Originally Posted by JPnTX View Post
      Attachment 213828Attachment 213829Attachment 213830

      None of the pictures I posted are of show cars, all are drivers, but I’ll pass your kind comments along to those customers! One of these is my own, 10k miles on the install and driven regularly.
      Kickass setup; is anyone on this board using it ? Anyone have a build thread or installation video ?

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