Rear steer rack and pinion for 1968-1974 Nova

[cornfedbill]

I am looking for a rear steer rack for my 1974 Nova. The problem is typically clearance to the oil pan. My engine is moved rearward and upward significantly, leaving plenty of room where the steering linkage is now located. I am just looking for a rack that is the correct width and is set up for rear steer. I will fab the rest.

I am super cheap and am looking for a rack from a production car that I can adapt to fit instead of purchasing a kit. Besides, most of the kits are front steer and don't meet my desires to retain rear steer. I want to have proper Ackerman angles and can't easily do that with front steer.

[dontlifttoshift]

Serious question.

What does a rack do that your existing steering box and linkage not do?

[cornfedbill]

Tighter steering. Less play. Lighter weight.

[dontlifttoshift]

1 out of 3.......and I bet there are easier places to save weight.

[streetk14]

1 out of 3.......and I bet there are easier places to save weight.

I agree. I really don’t think the AGR rack I had on the Art Morrison subframe in my 67 was any better than the PSC Delphi box and TruTurn on my 68. Maybe a little less on-center play with the rack, but it also transmitted vibration into the steering wheel that I didn’t like.

[David Pozzi]

I discourage guys from doing rack & pinion on a stock subframe. It's not made for it and there are way to many compromises to have a good result. You are just creating a bunch of problems that have poor tradeoffs. A good fast ratio high effort Saginaw power box will have faster steering ratio and be trouble free. A rack & pinion has lack of travel issues, has worse steering shaft geometry with several high angle universal joints, has a higher failure rate, & slower rato.

[cornfedbill]

Thanks. I was not aware of the lack of travel and slower ratio. Those are big negatives.


I have a Gen 3 Z28 quick ratio steering box. I guess I'll stick with it for now.


I was just looking at all the space I have since I moved the engine up (to put the oil pan above the main crossmember) and rearward about 6 inches in the frame. This has eliminated all the clearance issues associated with the steering system to oil pan.

[pitts64]

Rear steer linkage needs a real heavy and fast steering box. The Lee 12.9:1 set at 30 to 35 pounds would work. Next get the best quality center link and idler arm (with bearings) you can find. Then beef up the frame were the idler arm mounts. The rear steer is great for turns but straightaway it can be a little jumpy since the pressure is against the center link and idler arm.

Next time your taking the garbage out push the barrel with the wheels in front of you (rear steer) Then pull the barrel (front steer) and notice which one is more stable and which on turns more aggressively..

[CarlC]

..... idler arm (with bearings)

Where did you find an idler arm with bearings?

[cornfedbill]

Rear steer linkage needs a real heavy and fast steering box. The Lee 12.9:1 set at 30 to 35 pounds would work. Next get the best quality center link and idler arm (with bearings) you can find. Then beef up the frame were the idler arm mounts. The rear steer is great for turns but straightaway it can be a little jumpy since the pressure is against the center link and idler arm.

Next time your taking the garbage out push the barrel with the wheels in front of you (rear steer) Then pull the barrel (front steer) and notice which one is more stable and which on turns more aggressively..

I have an IROC Z quick ratio box and short pitman arm (from Rare Parts) for it. Unless I find something better, that is what I will run.

I have the subframe off the car right now and in a place to work on it. It is heavily modified.

To reduce some of the jumpiness at speed, I will be adding caster. This will provide more self-centering, and also put the steering axis further out toward the center of the wheels and reduce the forces on the steering linkage.