Suspension suggestions for a 67 Camaro

[Pyroneus Dawnlight]

Hello everyone, I'm looking for input on my suspension. With so many options available, it's a little overwhelming trying to decide where to spend my money. My budget is 5k, not including brakes, steering gearbox, subframe connectors, bushings, etc.
I know I at least want solid body bushings and subframe connectors. Who's got the best bang for the buck? I'm fairly set on bolt-ins, and weld them on after.
As for suspension, I wanna stick with the stock subframe. This car will be a daily driver, so I'm after comfort and handling. I live on fairly curvy roads, and so if I can get it to not feel like it wants to roll over or spin out, that's perfect. I'm hearing lots of mixed opinions on whether I should spend money on four-link, keep the leaf springs, etc. I know I will at least will go for tubular arms, and coil overs up front. QA1 seems to have a pretty good setup but I haven't seen a lot of feedback from people who use it.
I'd also like to hear a little bit about the technical side of things. I wanna know why it works, not just what works. It helps me understand when I'm paying for looks vs function, as well as understand how to fix more specific problems I run into.

[dhutton]

ridetech streetgrip.

Don

[68Formula]

You can get the ridetech streetgrip with their tubular upper and lower control arms that add caster for well under your budget. Their package is designed as a system to work together, and a good spirited street setup. It addresses the camber gain and lack of caster (although it won't do much for bumpsteer correction, but that's not a big deal if you're not tracking it).

[Pyroneus Dawnlight]

Well, for that far under budget are there other things I can do to add to that? Any bump steer correction, or is that even necessary? Or other kits that do more? I'm perfectly willing to spend the money if it means I get a better system in the end. I just know that there's a point where you spend dramatically more for little gain. I've also heard about Del-Alum bushings, what's the opinion on those?

[68Formula]

Bumpsteer can be corrected pretty well with tie-rod ends. Baer (Tracker) and Speedtech sell adjustables but then you need to be able to measure the bumpsteer to dial them in. Proforged sells a non-adjustable tall tie rod end that will get you pretty close. You'll want new tie-rod ends anyway, and the SG kit doesn't come with them.

Once you add the control arms to the SG kit, and some form of bumpsteer correction tie rods, you'll be just under $4k. Don't see an option to add coilovers on the front, but maybe you can call them and see if they offer a substitution with their kit since you're already getting the control arms.

Del-A-Lum is just the trademark name for Global West's delrin bushings. Less deflection and less friction can provide a smoother ride with better handling. Some say it can make the ride worse when hitting high bump-velocity (like a pothole or rock), but if the springs aren't race-stiff and shocks adjustable, it actually can feel as comfortable as, or better, than rubber.

Some manufacturers sell interlocking solid body mounts with their subframe connectors, so pick out your connectors first before you buy the bushings.

[Pyroneus Dawnlight]

Any recommendations on the subframe connectors? I've read that Hotchkis has the ones that hug the floor the closest without any cutting, but I don't find many pictures of other sfc's that have been installed. I figured bolt-on and then welding was best,just in case I wanna take the subframe off in the future.

[68Formula]

Depends on your budget. Some have modified the DSE weld in connectors, so they can be ends unbolted. Since you cut out a portion of the floor and weld it into the floor it can provide a lot of strength. But does require fabrication and welding skills.

More bolt in, I like the Chris Alston g-connector. Very pricey, but not only does it connect front to rear but adds torsional rigidity as well, and incorporates a driveshaft loop.

[XLexusTech]

If I had to do it over again, I would stay closer to stock or go all DSE. Its easy to get to Race and go over that line ending up with a super high performance but less practical ride.

for 5K I would go old school modify stock sub with coil overs, change geometry with Guistrand Mod,tubular uppers and lowers, IROC steering box, On the rear leaf spring relocation good springs mini tubs and decent shocks. Nice front away bar blot in subframe connectors
Full DSE would be 15 K after all is sead and done but is very multipurpose

For one stop shopping TVS has always been a good Go-To https://www.hotchkis.net/product/196...7&md=432&sm=20

[Pyroneus Dawnlight]

I really would prefer to stay away from mini tubs, I know more tire helps a lot but I already have to spend money just getting the car new sheet metal. See my build https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...Hellstone-quot . Lots of work already needs doing, and from what I understand the tubs just aren't as necessary for a street machine. I'm well aware that I'm already in a good position to do the job but still. Out of curiosity, do the mini tubs require moving the front spring perch? Or is the relocation you're talking about for something else? I'm aware the leaf springs aren't parallel from the factory, but I thought correcting that required a smaller gas tank?
Also, with a stock subframe, should I do both the guldstrand mod and camber correcting arms, or just one or the other? I feel like I'm going to end up with the G-connector system, with solid bushings, because that sounds like the best deal. The IROC box was actually something I'm pretty decided on already so I'm glad that seems to be the consensus there. How about the Global West control arms? I see a lot of raving about those, what's the difference? Sorry for all the questions, I just prefer hearing it straight from someone, instead of piecing it together from various threads. User experiences always trump hearsay.