New member looking for 65 Chevelle suspension advice

[TOPGUN86]

Hi all!
I’ve owned my 65 for over 20 years. It has gone thru many incarnations. Started with a stock 327/powerglide. Stock suspension.
In the early 2000’s I upgraded the suspension and brakes to std GM 11” discs front and rear, lowered spindles. Ran that configuration for a few yrs. next was a transmission upgrade to a 700R4. Around 2010 I put in a LS3 with a T56, ac, new interior. Been running this way since. Done many power tour trips, it’s a fun car, but now it’s time to get on the newer suspension \brake bandwagon. I’m in possession of complete C6 brakes and am thinking of installing these. Looking for suspension advice. Been leaning toward ABC or Speedtech with the AFX spindles.
Thanks!
Chris

[Hotwire]

Welcome to the site and great looking car Chris!

You're on the right track going with tall spindles to help get rid of the horrible geometry these a-bodies have. I would highly suggest trying to box in the frame or get all the braces the aftermarket offers. I have not boxed mine in but am running a front frame brace (HUGE improvement), rear control arm braces (could definitely tell a difference) and rear shock tower brace (not that noticeable). Make sure your body bushings are in good shape as well.

I'm a bottom feeder with a budget, picking up used parts and cobbling together junk yard parts. In the front I have SPC fully adjustable uppers and ebay/chinese lower control arms with pro-forged taller upper and lower ball joints. (Cheap tall spindle alternative) The adjustable uppers allowed me to dial in the caster needed, but unfortunately pushed the front wheels rearward in the wheel wells. Also in getting a bunch of caster it raised the steering arms on the spindles causing bumpsteer, used 0.5" taller lower ball joints to help with that. Global West sells steering arms that also fix this along with some other companies offering adjustable kits, but they use exposed, non greased heim joints, unsure about their longevity.

I'm running a quick ratio (RPO ZQ8) steering box out of an S10 Xtreme / SS. Has metric threads, bolted right up to the newer GM lines that came with my LS swap/hydroboost out of a 05 Tahoe. Guys have also used Jeep Grand Cherokee boxes with adapters. The S10 was literally a direct bolt in, just swapped the pitman arm.

Have a Hellwig 1 5/16" solid front sway bar and can't say anything bad about it. Took 1/4" steel plate, welded nuts to it, then slid them in the frame rails and used them to attach the sway bar, was having problems with the factory style bolts pulling out of the frame.

I'm running stock style coils (moog 6200) with KYB gas a just shocks. Car feels like a stock ride until you start to go into a turn, the sway bar catches and the car stays flat. The improved camber curve keeps it planted and it handles great. I would suggest going with a little higher spring rate (stock is 290lb) as my car will start to rub if I get some healthy guys or a bunch of kids going for a ride. Looks like we're about the same ride height, I've got 2" drop spindles and also cut the springs, but they're starting to settle a little more than I wanted.

Rear I'm running adjustable uppers (highly recommended to dial in driveline angles) and older BMR solid lower control arms with heim joint style bushings. Man it works, you can push on the front or rear bumper laterally and the car doesn't move. I have a stock style rear sway bar and would advise against it. A couple companies make better sway bars that attach to the frame, go that route. You don't want the sway bar tying the rear control arms together.

Brakes, use a 1 1/8" bore in the master. I'm running a cast iron 80's corvette master, it works but is heavy and leaks. I would suggest going with a newer master w/ plastic reservoir, seals much better. I have my front lines running to a line lock, tees at the line lock and goes to the front wheels, no distribution block. Rear lines go through a wilwood adjustable proportioning valve and that's it. Brakes are 00 Z28 (LS1 big brake upgrade) stock rotors, napa ceramix pads, they're working great.

I've got an cammed LQ4 and T56. Running a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft out of a crown vic (55.5" center to center u-joint spacing), this car owes me nothing and I beat on it regularly, always leaves me and passengers with a smile.

[TOPGUN86]

I ended up going with UMI for the front and rear, worked out real nice. Everything fit nice and the car handles much better.