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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      South Carolina
      Posts
      935
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Zachalanche View Post

      the amp hours are pretty low (on the order of half what an average car battery would have) for both of those batteries which has me curious how long you could crank before you draw down the battery to the point that you aren't cranking fast enough. this also has me curious if they would be able to discharge fast enough to crank a larger engine, or if you would be overheating the battery every time you start your car. Maybe a pair of them would work well.



      For my motorcycle, I have held the antigravity battery and it seems impossibly light compared to the oem lead acid battery. almost like there is nothing inside the case. I plan to buy one when my battery finally dies. So, the possible weight savings is a pretty cool thing, and probably better bang for the buck than something like a fiberglass hood.

      I'm interested to see what you come up with. I also prefer batteries in the engine compartment.
      Agree on the amp hour difference. What I haven't really looked at (and I should), is the total electrical load. I'm running a mild BBC with a high torque starter, LED lights everywhere, FI, and a modest (let's say 200W) stereo. For the odd long distance tours I can always pack an emergency cable kit to retrofit a real battery if it comes to that.
      I previously had a trunk mount battery in this car and it's a lot of extra hassle to run cables. I don't have the deep door channels some other cars do. What I do have is tons of space in the engine bay.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Martinez, CA
      Posts
      190
      Country Flag: United States
      I went with a group 26 battery in my Chevelle. It’s considered “mid-size”. It’s saved approx. 18lbs and I was able to make the battery tray smaller to better fit the radiator overflow container.
      I too don’t like batteries in the trunk. It’s a hassle and sizing cables for proper voltage drop adds more weight than you’d save then just getting a lighter battery.
      Worlds Fastest LFX powered 1966 Chevelle, with a 3.6L/217 CI, 4 cam direct injected V6, 6 speed auto, full Hotchkis suspension, 4 wheel Wilwood discs, white w/red interior, cowl hood. 3260 lbs w/full tank.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Tinley Park, IL
      Posts
      1,220
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by JustJohn View Post
      For the odd long distance tours I can always pack an emergency cable kit to retrofit a real battery if it comes to that.
      Your battery starts the car, and provides some electrical "cushion" while running, but really the car runs off the alternator unless you have a big stereo. 20 min drive or 8 hours, shouldn't matter.
      ​
      Nick ~
      1969 Cutlass

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Location
      South Carolina
      Posts
      935
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Mr Nick View Post
      Your battery starts the car, and provides some electrical "cushion" while running, but really the car runs off the alternator unless you have a big stereo. 20 min drive or 8 hours, shouldn't matter.
      True but these are 50+ year old cars and multi day tours sometimes have limited parts availability. It's just a road trip contingency plan.

      It's looking like I can manage with a 3" wide battery and keep it up front.




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