MTBSully's First Restomod: 1969 Camaro LS Build

[MTBSully]

Small update. Got my alternator wire terminated and attached to the alternator. Re-installed the alternator. Also installed my new GM MAT sensor and that is now reading correctly in the holley software as well.




Just need to figure out what wire to wire my "sense" wire to. Also, the "excite" wire is the one that needs the 480ohm resistor, right?

[MTBSully]

Also, Whats everyone doing to wire up their reverse lockout solenoid?

[ryeguy2006a]

Wire up your speed sensor from the T56 Magnum to the pin on the transmission J4 connector. Pin 14 and 18 I believe. Tell the ECU that it's a 4L80e and it will pick up the signal. Then you can create an output based on speed that will open the solenoid under 3 mph. That's what I did and it worked beautifully. Once you have the VSS as an input, you can do things like turn off your cooling fans above a certain speed.

[MTBSully]

Wire up your speed sensor from the T56 Magnum to the pin on the transmission J4 connector. Pin 14 and 18 I believe. Tell the ECU that it's a 4L80e and it will pick up the signal. Then you can create an output based on speed that will open the solenoid under 3 mph. That's what I did and it worked beautifully. Once you have the VSS as an input, you can do things like turn off your cooling fans above a certain speed.

Interesting idea. I'm using GPA based speed via the holley dash, so i wonder if I can use that as an input. If not, I can certainly give that a shot.

[MTBSully]

Spent a few hours wiring up the fuel pump last night.

Sitting on the couch gathring motivation, snapped a cool pic:


Popped a drain plug out of the trunk and ran the relay/wiring up there. Mounted to the inner tub. Lines clean, loomed and neat. Yellow wire is the trigger wire that runs to the green wire on the holley harness to trigger the pump on. Red goes through a circuit breaker and then direct to the battery.



Running the wires clean from the dash back to the yellow wire on the drivers side and then the red wire down the passengers side, through the firewall and up to the battery took most of the night. Tedious work, but it needs to be done right, and neat.

Hit the key and the pump primed for 5 seconds and then turned off, just like it should. Going to grab some fuel tonight, hook up my fuel lines and see if we have any leaks. Getting close!

[MTBSully]

Need to measure for a new driveshaft as well. Done a little bit of reading and have found the following:

1. Make sure weight of the vehicle is on the rear axle
2.Insert slip yolk all the way into transmission
3. Pull slip yoke 3/4" to 1" out
4. Measure from center of slip yolk U joint hole, to center of differential yolk U joint hole, and that is your driveshaft length.

Any other methods or suggestions?

[ryeguy2006a]

That's exactly how I did mine. I had PEM Driveshafts make me a 3.5" thick wall aluminum unit with 1350 u joints. I think with shipping I was right at $400 bucks. Hard to beat for a brand new unit.

[MTBSully]

That's exactly how I did mine. I had PEM Driveshafts make me a 3.5" thick wall aluminum unit with 1350 u joints. I think with shipping I was right at $400 bucks. Hard to beat for a brand new unit.

Thanks, i'll do that. The car already came with a nice polished 3" or 3.5" driveshaft, so i'm going to use that one for now along with my new Sonnax slip yolk and some new 1350 U joints. I'll take the measurement and drop it at the local driveshaft shopfor them to shorten up.

Got my alternator wiring finished up. Pulled some wires from the bundle that would have gone to the coil/ washer pump. Wired the I/F terminal to a switched 12v source with a 470 ohm resistor inline. Not sure if this is necessary or not since there is no "batt" light in the car. I wired the "S" terminal to another 12v wire source from the bundle. If for whatever reason it doesnt trigger the alternator to charge i'll switch the wire from the "I/F" terminal to the "L" terminal.

Before I cleaned up and loomed all the wires.I'll get a pic of the finished product tonight. Nice to cross this item off the list though.


Ordered some 7/8-1" expanding freeze plugs for the VSS and speedo gear holes in the T56 magnum tail housing since I'll be using holley GPS based speed. Now I can finally fill this thing up with transmission fluid.


While I was under the car I started thinking about how i'm going to build my 3" exhaust with X pipe and it definitely looks like my e-brake cable will be in the way. Does anyone have any suggestions for an e brake setup that isnt as messy as this?



Getting close to firing this thing up!

[thumper877]

E stopp electric brake and do away with all those cables

[MTBSully]

E stopp electric brake and do away with all those cables

Interesting. I wonder if there is a universal kit that allows the cable to split closer to the rear axle so its not so much in the way.

[thumper877]

Yes all my cables are in my trunk. Just little loops up to the trunk.

Interesting. I wonder if there is a universal kit that allows the cable to split closer to the rear axle so its not so much in the way.

[MTBSully]

Made a lot of progress this last friday before I left for the weekend. Not too much picture worthy, but a lot done.

Removed my headers for hopefully the last time. Welded on my stainless v bands, and wrapped the collector portion of the headers, since these will be relatively close to my coil packs. Should help keep the heat down a little bit.





re-installed headers, plugs, wires, dipstick and tube, ground cables, loomed ground and power cable, various other little things. This shows my alternator wiring all cleaned up and loomed.


Measured for my driveshaft on Firday and dropped it off at the driveshaft shop. Hopefully will be done today or tomorrow. Lets hope I measured correctly!

All thats left to do is top off the oil, fill the transmission, double check a few things and hit the key! That should be tonight. Wish me luck!

[MTBSully]

Topped off the oil, filled the transmission with DEX III. Double checked everything.

Ready to fire!



Hit the key, and she sputtered a little bit but didnt fire. Primed pump again and tried again, got more sputtering, a backfire through the exhaust and a small backfire through the intake. At this point I decided to double check all of my ignition connections. Sure enough, the coil harness on Bank 1 was completely backwards (coil 1 plug plugged into coil 7, and vice versa). Corrected that and also bumped fuel pressure up to ~55PSI. Hit the key again and she sputtered a little more and almost fired. Decided to try a little throttle and she roared to life. Ran great as long as my foot was on the pedal slightly. MAN this thing is rowdy with open headers lol. Died as soon as I took my foot off the throttle. Checked all 8 primarys, all hot, so i know we are firing on all 8 now. Was great to hear this thing make noise for the first time in 8 months.

If anyone has any ideas why it won't idle on its own, i'm all ears. Still new to the holley system. Its got a big cam, maybe it just needs more idle airflow. Basic rundown is below:

• 2010 LS3
• BTR Stage 4 LS3 NA Cam
• Stock injectors
• Stock LS3 DBW Throttle body
• Longtube headers

Right now the wideband is right at the header collector, which is probably gathering air. Do these systems operate like the OEM systems where the o2 sensors don't affect fueling until closed loop once the engine warms up? Didn't smell super rich or anything. Cant figure out a way to attach my tune file here. Maybe someone can take a look?

Happy to have this thing making some noise!

[ryeguy2006a]

I used a universal ebrake kit from Summit. The clevis' that came with the kit worked perfectly with the LS1 rear brakes I had.

[ryeguy2006a]

Did you adjust your DBW settings for the idle or do a TPS reset? I believe they are similar to the IAC settings for DBW. You have to set those all first before you do anything.

[Sinnister69]

I would throw on a section of exhaust pipe after the 02 sensor so it doesnt read so much oxygen my car ran extremely rich until i did that and it corrected itself

[MTBSully]

Did you adjust your DBW settings for the idle or do a TPS reset? I believe they are similar to the IAC settings for DBW. You have to set those all first before you do anything.

I did, but i beleive i need to make some adjustments to the throttle position vs pedal position table. Seems thats the key to making these DBW setups idle correctly.

I would throw on a section of exhaust pipe after the 02 sensor so it doesnt read so much oxygen my car ran extremely rich until i did that and it corrected itself

Was thinking of doing this. Or simply unchecking the "closed loop" box so that the car won't use the wideband readings for these initial starts. It didnt smell overly rich but who knows.

[MTBSully]

She runs and man is she rowdy. Made adjustments to my DBW pedal position vs. throttle position (up 10%), and also turned off closed loop and "learn" features until i finish my exhaust, and she idles beautifully! Absolutely deafening with open headers lol. BTR stage 4 cam sounds insane!



Driveshaft is done. New 1350 yolk, U joint and my sonnax 1350 slip yolk. New 1350 U joint on the other end as well. It was chrome plated so obviously that is ruined now that its been re-welded and balanced. Going to paint it metallic silver and it should look nice.



Need to pop in my auto city classics radiator, make up some hoses, install the driveshaft and add more fluids before I can let this thing run and come up to temperature. Video will be up shortly!

[ryeguy2006a]

She runs and man is she rowdy. Made adjustments to my DBW pedal position vs. throttle position (up 10%), and also turned off closed loop and "learn" features until i finish my exhaust, and she idles beautifully! Absolutely deafening with open headers lol. BTR stage 4 cam sounds insane!

Prove it!! haha

[MTBSully]

Prove it!! haha

Video coming soon! Accidentally transfering it to my PC last night