03 Dakota ext cab

[Vimes]

That appears to be a Gen 2 compac. I have had several of them. In the summer, you need to run the fan on high or it will freeze over even at lower demands. I have made several trips with these units and after around 75 miles, the evaporator will freeze at low or medium speeds. If all you do is short trips, you won't have this problem. This is only an ac problem. I have visited with the Vintage Air techs on several occasions and have found out that is a downside of Gen 2 units. If you have space, you might consider a Gen 4 unit. I have a 2000 Dakota RT and the blend doors have lost their sealing sponges. I have yet to find a source for those parts. I may do what you are doing but I will look at the larger units to see if that's a good fit. I'm sure the waiting is tough for you. I hope somebody get's in gear to get your truck moving forward. Best wishes on your project.

On the sealing foam, you'll likely have to find a sheet of something similar and make your own. Amazon has some promising products, search "open cell foam weatherstrip sheet". A little tacking spray will hold it all together.

My unit is actually a Vintage Air 61005-VUX-A Vintage Air Gen-II Super Cooler. It has 4 dash vents, not 3, plus the defrost vents. I appreciate the warning on the Compac, it's actually what I traded in to get the Super back in 2021. I'd actually bought the Compac for an El Camino project about 25 years ago and never used it. It sat in the attic, forgotten, until this project came along. Have you heard anything about the Super unit having similar problems?

When the truck comes back and I get to installing the air I'll be working out a way to use air filters, and thanks to other advice on this board I will be installing it in a way to make it easy to remove for repairs. I had to replace the evaporator on my 2005 Dodge, after I worked on the air I discovered it had a pinhole leak, and that was a mess - required removing the steering wheel and the entire dash.

Track width is traditionally measured from the center of one tire to the center of the other tire. As you have learned, that really isn't useful information unless you know wheel sizes and offsets. At that point you can math your way into the measurements that matter.

Yeah, that was a whoopsie. But, at least we figured it out before something was cut.

[dontlifttoshift]

All the GENII units have that problem. Getting the capillary tube installed properly goes a long way in preventing freeze up. As noted earlier, turn the temperature warmer instead of turning down the fan speed. The only fool proof way is to hide the thermostat that controls the compressor and set it so it can't blow colder than about 42* under any circumstance.

The GENIV/V units are light years ahead of the GENII and I put them in everything I can.

[Vimes]

Thanks, I'll think about the Gen2 vs Gen5. A lot will depend upon how much room is behind the dash when the time comes. I plan on an aftermarket dash for it, most likely one of these two.

https://www.fiberwerx.com/collection...placement-dash
https://www.fiberwerx.com/collection...11631156559919

[Vimes]

All the GENII units have that problem. Getting the capillary tube installed properly goes a long way in preventing freeze up. As noted earlier, turn the temperature warmer instead of turning down the fan speed. The only fool proof way is to hide the thermostat that controls the compressor and set it so it can't blow colder than about 42* under any circumstance.

The GENIV/V units are light years ahead of the GENII and I put them in everything I can.

I believe I have found a generic solution to any HVAC system freezing up.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyho...oduct-Info.pdf

This is a simple switch that opens at 36F, then closes at 46F and it goes inline with the compressor relay wire. The Honeywell Trol-A-Temp Freeze Protection Control, Model FPC is 50-80 bucks, but it may be available for less, and there may be other brands.

I'm going to go with my Gen2 unit mainly because I've already got one sitting on a shelf in my garage. Plus, it's a couple of inches narrower than the Gen4/5 units I looked at of the same capacity so it'll tuck into the firewall closer. But, I do like the 3 button switch on the Gen4/5, and would go with it if I didn't already have a 2 on the shelf along with a plan to deal with the freeze-ups.

EDIT - I ordered one of these switches tonight. When it comes in I'll test it with a multimeter and an ice cube.

[dontlifttoshift]

You are going to hate that 10 degree swing in vent temperature.

The unit already has a temperature control switch, and it is adjustable. Get the capillary tube installed properly and it will all be fine as long as you never turn it below freezing.

[Vimes]

You are going to hate that 10 degree swing in vent temperature.

The unit already has a temperature control switch, and it is adjustable. Get the capillary tube installed properly and it will all be fine as long as you never turn it below freezing.

I plan on installing the capillary tube when the time comes, this will be like a hard limit switch on it that is inline with the thermostat wiring to the compressor. I can't count on being the only one who drives this, although for the first few years I will be. The temp swing was the tightest I was able to find and I wanted a way to protect the evaporator against freeze-ups. I'd rather the temp from the vents vary than the evaporator freeze up and not blow cold air at all or worse, be damaged. But, that's a worry for a long time from now.

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In other news, I stopped by the shop today. Work progressed, but is currently stopped until I bring them a rear differential. They need the differential so they can figure out where to put the cross members in, and they may have to raise the tunnel to make it all fit. No pictures, not much has changed beyond making a few mounts and getting the rear rails extended out.

[Vimes]

Gen5 Camaro SS rear diff enroute. 3.27 rear ratio, should work well with my tire size.

edit - delivered to the shop. Probably won't be any real action until next year.

[Vimes]

A small change to my project - I found a takeout 392 with an 8HP transmission from a 2018 Challenger. The place selling it specializes in modern takeouts for older projects. It comes with the engine, trans, wiring, ECM, shifter, pedals, steering column and fuel tank. When I figured out the cost to go LS and piece it all together vs buying this, I couldn't say no. This will probably run me half to a third when adapters, aftermarket controllers and the rest are added in, then there's making it all happy to work together which never was guaranteed. This way, it already works together. The shop will make the correct mounting points and cross members, I get a driveshaft made and it's a done deal.

I don't like that I'm swapping an aluminum block for iron, but then I won't need the extra weight a turbo would add so I guess it'll be close to a wash. And, I can always pick up a rather pricey aluminum block later if it's a problem. I'll just need to find about 100 to 150HP to reach my target power level and that should be achievable with headers, a cam and a tune. I'm also retaining the MDS system. I've had two vehicles with that system on it and, as long as the oil is kept changed, it seems to work pretty well.

Interesting bit of math - CdA is an aerodynamic efficiency measurement that uses Cd and frontal area. The lower the number, the better, and is why just Cd is not the be-all and end all of it. A large vehicle with a low Cd will be less aerodynamic than a small vehicle with a higher Cd. My truck originally had a CdA of 9.73173775. I calculate that after changes, the new CdA will be 7.3582425. The Challenger that my drivetrain is originating from had a CdA of 8.556781042. Further, the Challenger weighed in at around 4300lbs while I'm expecting no more than 4000lbs and will be shooting for 3500lbs. The Challenger had a rated highway mileage of 25mpg, so with the correct parts and a tune I might actually hit my 30MPG steady state highway cruising goal. This last paragraph is, of course, all based on internet research. The proof will be actual results when I eventually get this on the road, but for now I'm hopeful.

[Vimes]

Went to the shop today. It was a mixed bag.

First the good - the engine arrived and it was as promised. It was on a pallet with a wooden frame around it. I'm glad I had it shipped straight there instead of to my house as I normally might. The engine was set up to run on the pallet and even had fuel in the tank. So, engine, transmission, exhaust up to the back of the trans, ECM, wiring harness (felt like 40lbs of wire) steering column, start button, shifter, and both pedals with sensors. It was a very complete swap kit. I bought it from Cleveland Parts & Perfomance, and the donor was a 2018 Challenger with 27,000 miles on it. Cost was about 14K and a bit shipped. Considering I was looking at just an engine running more than this, I couldn't pass it up even though it's an iron block so extra weight. This will save a ton of money and frustration even if I wind up having to rebuild it.


Instrument cluster, wrapped up. I didn't want to remove it just yet.


The rear is going to work fine, and is still a work in progress. This is the 2013 Camaro SS IRS differential. Unfortunately, the fuel tank plan isn't going to work. I wanted to do a saddle tank in front of the rear diff, but the frame rails and all will be in the way. I'll probably be putting it behind the rear diff, unless I come up with something after I get the truck back.


Everything is still tacked up front because they ran into a problem, which I'll deal with next. But, it's looking like I will just need a 2 inch flare on the fenders. That will be decided later though, as the tires that are on there now are 275/40R18 and I think they're 18x9, while I will almost certainly be running 285/40R18s on 18x10s.

My vision is coming together. I can see the bed on it, and it's looking like I'd hoped it will. The bed is just about the same length as the hood area. The distance from the cab for the front and rear wheels is about the same, and the overhangs will be about the same. It looks like it'll sit low, but it's being built to sit several inches off the ground. I don't want to screw around with having to creep over speed bumps, or try to get in and out of something that sits on the ground.


Now for the problem, and I'm hoping for some advice. The front cradle is not going to work, and is a huge oversight on my part. The problem is that the Corvette wheels are so far forward that the engine sits behind them. The harmonic balancer is like an inch behind the steering rack. On my truck, the engine sits centered on the wheels. In order to put the engine in the same position that the Corvette engine is, the engine would come into the cabin 18 inches - think full size van with a doghouse over the engine. If they mount the engine where it has to go, the valve covers will be outside of the hood. There is only 16 inches from the steering rack to the firewall.


The two ideas we have at the moment are:

- Build lower control arm mounts out of tubular steel and use the existing Corvette parts. They would install a cross member to replace the cradle. This would likely require spindles with steering arms that hang down lower, which are available.

- Use a Mustang II style front suspension. I'm not in favor of this one as it means chunky heavy steel parts, unless there's a way to use the Corvette parts from the hub out.

If anyone has any ideas on how to solve this problem I'd appreciate the direction even if we ultimately do not go that way.

[dontlifttoshift]

IF the crossmember and the rack are the only issues, leave everything else in place, build new crossmember after locating the engine and use the fox or SN95 rack that everyone uses with a dropped steering arm of your design or someone elses.



I would use this opportunity to narrow up the trackwidth in the front and you really should do the same in the rear. High offset wheels work in the front because the tie rod is close to vertical center with the hub. When you drop that down wheel clearance gets tighter and tighter.

[ryeguy2006a]

Looks like you are making some great progress! Love the update. I don't have any advise for the engine situation, but the shop seems to know what they are doing so a custom crossmember may be the way to go. Hopefully they could still use the stock control arms so it could save you some money but still mount to the chassis. Maybe between that and relocating the steering rack it will give enough space.

[wfo guy]

My 1st thought is to go back to c4 suspension. Flat Out Eng. is one supplier of crossmembers. However, progressive automotive makes a kit for c6 also. If you were to make a rear sump oil pan and raise the engine above the crossmember is an option. I don't like a raised center of gravity which I'm sure you don't either.

[Vimes]

Thanks for the suggestions. I sent them on to the builder. In addition, he's got a 2013 Charger coming into his repair side tomorrow. He's going to wander around underneath it with a tape measure while it's on the lift to see if the subframe might be adaptable. Currently however, my favored plan is the C5 control arms with the custom cross member.

Unfortunately, the measurements took into account using a rear sump.

On narrowing the track, I don't want to do that unless that's the only way this works. I kinda like the idea of a wide body conversion.

[dhutton]

I would take a look at the Detroit Speed universal front clip. I used one on my 57 Buick wagon. It’s a nice piece. No Limit Engineering has a front clip too. They are narrower track widths, around 60”.

Also curious why you can’t just raise the engine and push it forward. I have C5 cradles and suspension etc in my 56 Cameo and the engine sits very low in the engine bay. Lots of room to go higher. Have you ruled out using a rear sump oil pan.

[Vimes]

I would take a look at the Detroit Speed universal front clip. I used one on my 57 Buick wagon. It’s a nice piece. No Limit Engineering has a front clip too. They are narrower track widths, around 60”.

Also curious why you can’t just raise the engine and push it forward. I have C5 cradles and suspension etc in my 56 Cameo and the engine sits very low in the engine bay. Lots of room to go higher. Have you ruled out using a rear sump oil pan.

I'll take a look at them, thanks.

We were looking at it with the idea of using a rear sump oil pan. It also looks like you had more room in front of the firewall to work with than I do. Stock, the Dakota can handle a V8 but it puts the center of the engine just ahead of the front wheels. Your Cameo (and those are nice looking trucks) has more room to work with from the wheel centerline to the firewall. My firewall is practically at the wheel well opening.

He also just reported back that the Charger stuff won't work.

[dhutton]

I guess I should correct myself. The WMS of the DSE universal front clip is 60”, not the track width. Sorry.

[Vimes]

No worries.

I also forgot to mention, putting the engine where it should reside in relation to the firewall puts the front of the engine well past the front of the steering rack. I also asked about raising the body in relation to the frame. The rockers will already be 7 inches off the ground at ride height so raising the body in relation is not going to be an option. At this point, the only way I can see to use the Corvette cradle will be to stretch the fenders, and move the wheels forward.

[Vimes]

Update: The front cradle roadblock has been broken. The front cradle won't be used. He's going to do a custom K member, and this will let the engine go where it normally would if I were just doing an engine swap. Front vs rear oil sump is still up in the air although he thinks we can keep the factory front sump. Going with the K member means we can move the rack lower, and it will be between the K member and the oil pan. To correct bump steer, he'll be cutting the steer arms off the spindles and will make a set to bolt on. He's made them before so it's not uncharted territory.

[Vimes]

Tiny update - cradle is out, K-member is tacked in. They are waiting on more steel for this now as they decided that it needed a larger diameter DOM tube for the LCA mounts. They said this one would work and would be plenty strong enough, but with the larger tube the alignment adjusters will fit better. While it's a lot cleaner looking under there than the Vette cradle was, they said it'll weigh about the same as the cradle. I was hoping it would be lighter, but in some areas stronger is better. This is one of them.

Sadly, one of the spots that I won't be saving money is the fuel tank. I was hoping the Challenger saddle tank might fit up in there but nope, no go. If I were to try a saddle tank in the space available I MIGHT manage a 2 gallon tank with one gallon on each side of the driveshaft. I'll have to figure something else out instead now and that can't happen until the truck comes home.

[Vimes]

Minor update - the larger tube K-member is being built. I like the larger diameter piping even if it is going to add weight. The original piping looked a little small, this looks more correct. Didn't bother with pics. Moving right along, just not very quickly.