1972 Buick Turbo LS Pro Touring - Garage Made

[lwilliams]

Ok, now for the terminator xmax install. I didn't really take any pictures of the install itself. Install videos and blogs are plenty everywhere so i figured that would be redundant. Putting the original harness back together and hooking it up was something i could have done a better job of being organized for when i took it apart. most everything wasn't working and i couldn't figure out why until i went under the dash and realized i had previously disconnected everything. i also needed a new battery for the car so that helped once i knew i was actually getting voltage to things. I ran into one problem where my brake lights kept pulsing every time i took my foot off the pedal. My buiddy said he had a similar issue with a bad ground. literally spent like 2 days trying to figure it out. Then, explaining it to a friend he said, "that sounds a lot like hazard lights". FML hahaha. i had the hazards clicked on but didn't know that was the cause as i have no lights or gauges hooked up to show the hazards were actually on. Yeeeesh haha. 2 days of my life i wont get back but you live and learn.

***at first the wiring of everything was some what intimidating to me, however watched a bunch of videos on youtube and read a bunch too, it was actually really easy. But holy cow does it take some time to wire everything my god. hours and hours. If i can wire this thing anyone could wire one***

A few things i had to do that aren't really told to you when buying the term x. First off the instructions are really good and actually hooking the harness and computer itself up are super easy. I figured it would be better that I mention some things you will probably need which you don't know. specifically for the part number for my car, I have ev6 injectors so although i have the truck engine my kit is actually the ls1 24x cam sensor with ev6 injectors. that way i didn;t have to run an injector harness adapter of truck injectors to EV6.

1. alternator wiring - do this! https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...7MvmKpTb5ZwueB but for way cheaper than having holley send it to you. I just went to Auto Value got the parts guy to get me the right pigtail for my alternator, same one as above ($4.69), then got a pack of the 1/2watt 560ohm resistors ($2.36), i already had some 16 gauge wire, then ran it to a Key on 12v source on the fuse box and bang i'm at like 14+ volts all the time no problem.



2. i got the new version of the gm 2.5bar MAP sensor (this is only needed if you are running boost, otherwise you can plum a line from vacuum all the way to the internal holley 1 bar sensor in the ecu) - i also got the holley MAP sensor connector when i ordered the Term x. Easy peeeezy. I had a pvc block off adapter that happened to just bolt up really nice to hold down the map sensor. so that was a nice surprise. i removed it to put in the IAT as per below. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/558-416

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3. IAT/MAT sensor - i got a push in one from Auto Value again. i think any OBD2 blazer, jimmy etc is the right one. its explained in the sloppy link here. I just followed this thread from sloppy mechanics. and used some gasket sealer it is in their freakin tight, shouldn't pop out under boost but it if does ill switch to at threaded one. thread on the install from sloppy https://sites.google.com/site/sloppy...n-truck-intake. low dollar has a really cheap IAT sensor if you want threaded. only $15USD https://lowdoller-motorsports.com/pr...S4dGANp9rKvx3m

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4. computer can to usb connector- get this, it is so you can plug the holley into a computer, yes its $80 and you will say do i really need it. Yes you do, its just easier to do everything with the software compared to the hand held. it is also just nicer with the monitors while the engine is running.

5. fuel pressure sensor - this it totally optional but as i will explain below it is just nice to have. the system will run completely fine without it, but if you are trying to trouble shoot potential fuel issues like i was it is nice to just rule out that you fuel pressure either is or is not in thew right spot. Again low dollar motor sports has a cost effective solution hear and they send you the data to put into the holley software for accurate readings (because you bought the can to usb cable remember). plus it connects right to the fuel rail schrader valve, again... easy peeezy! as i have had this running since early january i did go an buy this sensor and hook it up. really nice piece and it is nice to know what my fuel pressure looks like. https://lowdoller-motorsports.com/pr...29aafed4&_ss=r

6. priming the engine - if you engine had been sitting forever like mine you probably want to prime it before staring it. i found this great video on doing that on the cheap! a $2.50 oil pressure fitting from amazon, $2 barbed fitting from home depot and a pressure can sprayer. hook it up like so in the pictures, fill the can with oil, remove the sprayer attachment, plump to the barbed fitting and pump that sucker up. i would let it set for a minute then turn the crank somewhat add pressure again and repeat. i probably got about a good 1-2 liters of oil in there doing it this way. when i went to just crank the engine over before initial start up (coils and injectors unplugged) it got oil pressure within a few seconds.

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