Do I really need a full floater?

[Jomanchu]

Hey everyone! First time poster here, please be gentle.

I'm having a bit of a debate with myself on the next phase of my build...as the title states; "Do I really need a full floating rear end?"

A little bit about what I'm building. 66 mustang coupe (not many fords around here) getting a coyote swap, C6 front suspension, watts link and 9 inch. Eventually I'd like to be able to add a power adder and hit the occasional twisty backroad, autocross or track day at Mid Ohio.



So what's your take? I like the idea of a floater in that I know I'll be future proofed but that comes with $$$. Can I beat on a traditional 9 inch with a20's and 500hp and be just fine?

[dontlifttoshift]

Do this. https://millerbuiltusa.com/

If you are using C6 front parts then the Miller Built setup for the rear is a no brainer. Brakes, and parking brake, become super easy and relatively inexpensive with all off the shelf parts. One spare hub can service any corner of the car. No leaks. No pad knockback.

I have changed enough A20 bearings, it sucks as the wedding bands are ridiculously huge. Assembling the A20 through a Wilwood backing plate is tedious and if you roll the seal it's another $50 bearing to fix it.

[Jomanchu]

Thnaks for the reply Donny. I like the Miller kit, but my front hubs are drilled for the Ford bolt pattern. I dont see a different bolt center as an option on their site.

The options I'm currently debating are the Moser Autocross floater vs building a traditional semi-floating.

[dontlifttoshift]

.....but why tho? Are you not using the C6 spindle? If you are, and you drilled the front hubs, certainly you can drill the rears. If you are and are planning on drilling Corvette rotor hats for the rest of life to match your non standard hubs, I think that is poor planning. Also, hubs do not last forever.......a worn bearing can be quite an ordeal if you can't drill the hubs yourself. Either way, I bet Jay can accommodate your bolt pattern.

If you are using a different upright than the C6 then disregard the above.

All of that aside, I prefer the Corvette hub approach to a full floating axle over any of the other versions for their low maintenance, ease of brake installation and upgrades in the future, and use of commonly available parts.

[ilikeike]

Pad knock sux. I wish I went floater.

[Jomanchu]

.....but why tho? Are you not using the C6 spindle? If you are, and you drilled the front hubs, certainly you can drill the rears. If you are and are planning on drilling Corvette rotor hats for the rest of life to match your non standard hubs, I think that is poor planning. Also, hubs do not last forever.......a worn bearing can be quite an ordeal if you can't drill the hubs yourself. Either way, I bet Jay can accommodate your bolt pattern.

If you are using a different upright than the C6 then disregard the above.

All of that aside, I prefer the Corvette hub approach to a full floating axle over any of the other versions for their low maintenance, ease of brake installation and upgrades in the future, and use of commonly available parts.

Fair points. I am running c6 uprights. The manufacturer of the setup I'm running sourced the hubs already with the 4.5 bolt pattern (no re-drilling) and also supply brakes from wilwood that fit it. I imagine that brakes are something that could be independently sourced from wilwood relatively easily, though I haven't proven that out. Hubs could be a different story though since my part number search yielded no results. I sent an email to them to ask about replacement hubs.

I haven't bought wheels yet so I'm not locked into the ford bolt pattern and could easily switch it to the standard c6 hub. I did sent a note to Miller to ask about ford bolt patterns. It can't be the first time they've been asked...

[Jomanchu]

Jay got back to me. He doesn't accommodate requests for 5x4.5 pattern, but says people have taken care of it on their own.

[Chad-1stGen]

For street driving a floater is completely unecessary. For autocross or track driving if you want to be fast and use a fixed caliper then a floater is necessary.

If you are only going to do one autocross or track day a year then it's not a big deal. Also, mild pad knock back is much easier to deal with on the road course than an autocross. Or you can run a floating rear caliper.

[79T/Aman]

you say "the manufacturer of the product" than you mention "Jay", seems you don't want to tell who you are getting the C6 front set up from.
You stated you are using C6 uprights, then you should use C6 hubs to solve your dilemma, understand some " manufacturers " trap the customer into buying there product but you can always get a set of C6 hubs and there are plenty of brake kits for that application.
As for the rear end and brakes, you can run a simple big bearing ford and a Willwood brake system using a floating caliper, pretty bullet proof against piston knock back. This way you also could get axles with 4.5 bolt pattern.
There is more tan one way to skin this cat, it's just a matter of ow much you want to spend, bottom line using C6 front and rear hubs will run you about $2200 more.

[Jomanchu]

you say "the manufacturer of the product" than you mention "Jay", seems you don't want to tell who you are getting the C6 front set up from.
You stated you are using C6 uprights, then you should use C6 hubs to solve your dilemma, underjstand some " manufacturers " trap the customer into buying there product but you can always get a set of C6 hubs and there are plenty of brake kits for that application.
As for the rear end and brakes, you can run a simple big bearing ford and a Willwood brake system using a floating caliper, pretty bullet proof against piston knock back. This way you also could get axles with 4.5 bolt pattern.
There is more tan one way to skin this cat, it's just a matter of ow much you want to spend, bottom line using C6 front and rear hubs will run you about $2200 more.

Oh I'm not hiding anything, just dont think it adds value. Front end is the Mustangs to Fear C6 setup. When I was referring to Jay, he's Miller Built.