Another DC Controls story

**CarlC** · 10-29-2005

After some mild apprehension, I too took the DC Controls plunge.

There were two reasons. First, the temperature switch did not have the temperature range that was ideal for the engine. There are no switches available to do what I wanted, both from a temperature and fitment (thread size, connection, etc.) standpoint. The second is that when the fan was running at full power it took the idle speed down 100-150 RPM, which meant having the idle speed a bit to high in order to compensate.

The controller is very compact, smaller once in-hand than what one would expect (even with the drawings.) Easy to wire, and great instructions. It is mounted totally inside of the MarkVIII fan housing, no wiring out the front like their website shows. Four small self-tapping screws inserted from the front hold it in place. With a full depth shroud, there is still over 1/2" of space between the contoller and the radiator.

Best of all, it works exactly as advertised. With the temp probe set at 166* and inserted near the radiator output, the fan kicks in at 185* engine temperature. No more 15* temperature swings. Due to a bit of lag between engine and radiator temps, the engine temp dips to 180* before shutting completely off. There is little lag time between 180* and shut off, so over-cooling is minimized. I may experiment with some type of modified 3/8"-NPT fitting to mount in the head to fit the temperature probe into.

The only thing it needs is a noise filter. Dummy me forgot to read the accessories page in detail and order one. It's real easy to tell via the stereo the ramp up/down speed of the controller.

All in all, a nice part.

Sponsored Links

**Larry Callahan** · 10-29-2005

Carl, was that the unit that varies the rpm of the fan or ramps up the voltage?

**CarlC** · 10-29-2005

Yes.

http://www.dccontrol.com

**cad** · 10-31-2005

Carl,
What alternator are you running?
I know I will need to upgrade, but just curious.

**CarlC** · 10-31-2005

CS

Check my website for alternator type and mounting details.

**gmachinz** · 10-31-2005

The cool thing about the unit is that since it reads the incoming coolant temp for the engine, you can always tell the difference in temperature and that can tell you how efficient your cooling system is. So a setpoint of 166* vs. 180 at the gauge means the motor is only building 14* worth of heat before it's circulated again. -Jabin

**engine** · 12-09-2005

Is it me, or does 14* across a running engine seem to be to little...?

My 383 small block, if my gages read correctly gives up about 37* . My DC controller, with the -32 jumpers installed, is set for 148* setpoint, and water leaves the thermostat housing at about 185*. I'm using an Edelbrock Victor series waterpump, #8811. Could be that it's on it's way out, and not flowing enough...could be. What waterpump are you using, Carl? Next waterpump I buy will be Stewart Components.

**CarlC** · 12-10-2005

Same pump as yours. I got a deal on this one. Next time I'm trying a less expensive aluminum pump.

My temperature drop before the fans start is less than 20*. 180* thermostat and the DC Control set at 16?* (don't remember the exact number.)

**parsonsj** · 12-10-2005

Carl,
I'm really intrigued by this controller. Got any install pics?

jp

**engine** · 12-10-2005

Originally Posted by parsonsj

Carl,
I'm really intrigued by this controller. Got any install pics?

jp

I put some pics up in an earlier thread:
https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=10876

**gchandler** · 12-10-2005

http://hotrodhomepage.com/?p=33&page=3

Some pictures of my install. I have yet to wrap the wires into a loom, but you get the idea.

**parsonsj** · 12-10-2005

Geoff, engine,

thanks! One of these puppies is in my future. Looks like I'll have an AAW dual relay fan harness for sale soon.

jp

**CarlC** · 12-10-2005

John,

If you are using a full height MarkVIII fan it will fit totally inside of the lower left section of the shroud. DC offers this option but the power hook up is external (power studs sticking out of the shroud), and I don't have room for that. Instead, I flipped it over, used some nice self-tapping screws, screwed through the DC mounting flange, and mounted everything inside of the shroud. The wiring exits through a grommet on the bottom of the shroud and heads to the right, toward the harness for the power and fan leads. It's pretty stealty.

**parsonsj** · 12-10-2005

Cool, thanks! I can see the screw heads. I'm using a Ron Davis dual fan unit .... I see the spot for it.

jp

**68BNUT** · 12-10-2005

Hey I saw in the jegs magazine that Flex-a-lite makes a variable temp fan control that ramps the speed up and down just like the dc controler and its 60 or so bucks. Whats the difference in the two. Just wondering?

**gmachinz** · 12-10-2005

I can tell you up front that the Flex-a-Lite controller is made in China and has a high failure rate. They don't feature a self-extinguishing epoxy (just in case there was ever some crazy short...) and the wiring is not able to handle high heat areas like the DC Controls unit can. This is the same controller they use intheir Black Magic dual fan set-ups as well with a couple more bells and whistles. If you talk to anybody who has dealt with manufacturing overseas, they will tell you about how the first couple batches of product turn out great but then the quality control goes downhill once a contract is signed. Admittedly, Brian at DC Controls thought about it but since he could not oversee the quality control, he decided against it. Yes, others are cheaper but imo you get what you pay for in this respect. Interestingly enough, I recently found out a major player in the cooling fan control aftermarket offered to buy his patent rights for his controller-he turned them down. You know you're on to something when the competition wants to buy you out! -Jabin

**CAMAROBOY69** · 12-12-2005

Nice to hear more positive feedback on this product. I am ready to buy one too. Jabin you have an e-mail.

**67 455 Bird ragtop** · 12-13-2005

Can the DC controls unit be set to run for a period of time or until a temp is reached AFTER the motor is turned off???

**engine** · 12-13-2005

Originally Posted by 67 455 Bird ragtop

Can the DC controls unit be set to run for a period of time or until a temp is reached AFTER the motor is turned off???

The Acc switch that is usually wired to a 12 volt switched source, (so that it is on when you turn the key, much like a radio or amplifier) when it is wired to a constant 12v source fromt he battery (on all the time) will allow the fan to run with the car off. The fan will shut off when the temperature of water in the radiator cools below setpoint. The unit will turn off soon after that.
From the DC Controls site:
"Auxiliary wiring
Ignition input
The control unit will shut itself off automatically soon after the engine is turned off. If an Immediate shut off is required, connect the yellow ignition input wire of the harness to the unit and to any source that is higher than 6 v whenever the ignition is on

Keep in mind that if you install the "Underdrive" jumper to allow for 10% fan rotation whenever the unit is on, you cannot use this feature. The unit will stay on always. You'd have to wire the yellow IGN wire to a switched source.

**CAMAROBOY69** · 12-14-2005

I just purchased my DC Controller and surge protector (since my battery is in the trunk) Cant wait to recieve it. Tired of messing with the relays and temp switches that arent reliable.
Jabin, Check your paypal account.

I sure do buy a lot of parts from this site and wonder why im broke.

Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?	I want to create an account To login, enter your password:
Enter your password:
Forgot your password?	Stay logged in

Login / Register Close Panel

Thread: Another DC Controls story

Display

Hybrid View

Another DC Controls story