Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Kansas City Mo
    Posts
    4
    Country Flag: United States

    '97 C1500 work in progress

    Been lurking for a little while. Thought I would post up on the truck I am working on. Not pro touring but slowly moving in that direction? Was a Craigslist pick up 2 years ago. '97 C1500 step side. Body and interior were in not bad shape, leaked at every possible spot but the price was right. Initially I just planned on driving whenever I needed a pick up but it needed help and who knew it would spin out of control - right? Hers a pic the day I brought her home, 362,000 miles..
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    Immediately the trans goes out. Pulled the 4L60E and replaced it with a 4L80. Shortly after I noticed it was loosing power. Failed leak down and compression check along with a cracked head confirmed she gave all she had to offer. I was going to go LS like everyone but decided to keep the Vortec and Stroked to a 383, forged internals, full roller, 10:1, 200cc aluminum heads, Comp 280 cam and Edlebrock Proflow top end.
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    Universals were shot and drive shaft had a dent so new aluminum shaft and rebuilt the 10 bolt with 4:56, Auburn and girdle. A Hellwig sway bar helped with handling but, well its a '97 C1500. About a year of touching nearly every nut and bolt and fast forward to today. The project that was never supposed to be, was defiantly going in the straight line A to B direction. So it handles like crap and it sat too high. All new Moog front end helped. The control arm bushings were replaced at some point but sloppy and could not get the alignment in spec. I just installed some fabricated upper & lower control arms with Poly bushings, some blisteins and new variable rate springs. The result is lowered ~ 3.5" ploy bushings throughout along with a ACR quick steer box and replaced the rag joint with a universal joint.
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    The front end is as good as I will get it at this point. The back end however is a different story. I did do a disc brake conversion for the rear and some belltech lowering leaf springs. Now it rides like a harley hard tail (but does endless burnouts and it drifts real easy now lol) I need to do something with the rear suspension and am looking for some input. My thoughts are all over the board from just a flip kit and back with the OEM springs to cutting the back end off and welding in an Ashton or S&W coil over back half. I feel like I am over thinking this and honestly dont want to lay out another 2k if I really dont need to. Looking for thoughts on where to go to have a lowered rear suspension with good quality ride and improved handling

    The end game here is to complete the suspension for Sunday fun-day driving, slap on some stickys and hit up the 1/4 mile from time to time and maybe a run at an autocross? All of this is just for fun and not competitive. I also have batty relocation and fuel cell to install so the bed will be coming off (also body and paint work)



    As it sits today -
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    506
    Country Flag: United States
    Cool little truck. I was just having a conversation with my buddy the other day about how these are going to make cool project trucks as they become older and more forgotten. Can't help with the suspension question in this case. I only know how to jump off the deep end with my projects. I'll always vote coilovers.
    '95 F-150 track ready street beast
    Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    la mesa, CA
    Posts
    222
    Quote Originally Posted by vodka0tter View Post
    Been lurking for a little while. Thought I would post up on the truck I am working on. Not pro touring but slowly moving in that direction? Was a Craigslist pick up 2 years ago. '97 C1500 step side. Body and interior were in not bad shape, leaked at every possible spot but the price was right. Initially I just planned on driving whenever I needed a pick up but it needed help and who knew it would spin out of control - right? Hers a pic the day I brought her home, 362,000 miles..
    Name:  IMG_20160813_145634340.jpg
Views: 745
Size:  153.3 KB
    Immediately the trans goes out. Pulled the 4L60E and replaced it with a 4L80. Shortly after I noticed it was loosing power. Failed leak down and compression check along with a cracked head confirmed she gave all she had to offer. I was going to go LS like everyone but decided to keep the Vortec and Stroked to a 383, forged internals, full roller, 10:1, 200cc aluminum heads, Comp 280 cam and Edlebrock Proflow top end.
    Name:  20181110_123403.jpg
Views: 704
Size:  260.5 KB
    Universals were shot and drive shaft had a dent so new aluminum shaft and rebuilt the 10 bolt with 4:56, Auburn and girdle. A Hellwig sway bar helped with handling but, well its a '97 C1500. About a year of touching nearly every nut and bolt and fast forward to today. The project that was never supposed to be, was defiantly going in the straight line A to B direction. So it handles like crap and it sat too high. All new Moog front end helped. The control arm bushings were replaced at some point but sloppy and could not get the alignment in spec. I just installed some fabricated upper & lower control arms with Poly bushings, some blisteins and new variable rate springs. The result is lowered ~ 3.5" ploy bushings throughout along with a ACR quick steer box and replaced the rag joint with a universal joint.
    Name:  control arms.jpg
Views: 711
Size:  214.2 KB
    The front end is as good as I will get it at this point. The back end however is a different story. I did do a disc brake conversion for the rear and some belltech lowering leaf springs. Now it rides like a harley hard tail (but does endless burnouts and it drifts real easy now lol) I need to do something with the rear suspension and am looking for some input. My thoughts are all over the board from just a flip kit and back with the OEM springs to cutting the back end off and welding in an Ashton or S&W coil over back half. I feel like I am over thinking this and honestly dont want to lay out another 2k if I really dont need to. Looking for thoughts on where to go to have a lowered rear suspension with good quality ride and improved handling

    The end game here is to complete the suspension for Sunday fun-day driving, slap on some stickys and hit up the 1/4 mile from time to time and maybe a run at an autocross? All of this is just for fun and not competitive. I also have batty relocation and fuel cell to install so the bed will be coming off (also body and paint work)

    As it sits today -
    Name:  20170703_140929.jpg
Views: 705
Size:  250.8 KB
    I vote cut the rear end off! because thats where my insanity started. but seriously coilovers all around and a some sort of a linked rear end is the way to go.
    Follow my Instagram
    And my build on here
    check out Opentracker Racing Products

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Kansas City Mo
    Posts
    4
    Country Flag: United States
    Ashton has two bolt in options.

    A four bar set up that bolts into the leaf perches https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-253...uspension.aspx

    And a four bar cantilever set up. Set up for air bags.. Not wanting to add compressor etc.. Maybe convert to coil over? Dont know much about cantilever. https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-252...on-system.aspx

    I guess I could just buy a generic 4 bar set up and weld in but I dont know much about where to reinforce, proper length, optimal set up etc..

    S&W has this weld in option https://www.swracecars.com/store/Dir...51=10-506.aspx

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    la mesa, CA
    Posts
    222
    [QUOTE=vodka0tter;1292920]Ashton has two bolt in options.

    A four bar set up that bolts into the leaf perches https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-253...uspension.aspx

    And a four bar cantilever set up. Set up for air bags.. Not wanting to add compressor etc.. Maybe convert to coil over? Dont know much about cantilever. https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-252...on-system.aspx

    I guess I could just buy a generic 4 bar set up and weld in but I dont know much about where to reinforce, proper length, optimal set up etc..

    S&W has this weld in option https://www.swracecars.com/store/Dir...51=10-506.aspx[/QUOTE

    What is the final goal? First, I would say 100% is you need to notch the frame if you want to go low, its must. A bolt in or weld in parallel 4 link kit would be the most simple and get the Watts link kit as well. Panhard is cool, Watts link is better. If you are going to get crazy and cut uo the truck go with a custom triangulated 4-link or even a rad 3-link or Torque Arm.

    If you are not goint to get crazy your first option is simple and will work, but please notch the rear and get the watts!
    Follow my Instagram
    And my build on here
    check out Opentracker Racing Products

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Kansas City Mo
    Posts
    4
    Country Flag: United States
    couple more pics of this springs work. Fuel cell/lines with batty relo, MSD Trans controller, AGR perf. steer box, replaced the rag joint with universal joint. I decided not to back half it (yet) also did a inst. cluster.

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Anchorage,AK
    Posts
    17
    Man that thing looks sweet. I'm in the middle of doing my 93 Stepside 4x4. Gotta ask, where did you get that bed cover? Looking for one for mine.
    71 Camaro(always a project).
    81 Turbo Trans Am (Nascar Pacecar) modded.
    70 Olds 442
    88 Trans Am GTA (Procharged) a.k.a. Sleeper.